www.tdiclub.com

Economy - Longevity - Performance
The #1 Source of TDI Information on the Web!
Forums Articles Links Meets
Orders TDI Club Cards TDIFest 2016 Gone, but not forgotten VAG-Com List Unit Conversions TDIClub Chat Thank You




Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > TDI Conversions

TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old December 7th, 2016, 18:38   #31
1.9ZOOK
Veteran Member
 
1.9ZOOK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dunsmuir,Ca.
TDI(s): ALH Samurai
Fuel Economy: pending
Default

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...81247198196063

I set mine to 190º same as the thermostat and it will kick the fan on within 5º.
+/-
1.9ZOOK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 7th, 2016, 20:58   #32
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

I now know how I will make my cooling fan work properly (Thanks 1.9ZOOK), and I will wire up the power to the AC switch to make the fan come on when I turn the AC on and everything should work as it's supposed to.

I've been poking around with both Saturn's and VW's wiring diagrams for their AC systems and am in the process of drawing up a wiring diagram for it that I will post once I get it done to see what you guys think about it.

Another unanswered question of mine is will I need to run the fuel pump inside the sending unit all the time or cycle it on and off?? I did what CFM did based on these pictures and turned the fuel pump into a lift pump.
http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/u...w/Dsc02791.jpg

I drilled a 1/4 hole in the side of the plastic tube that goes from the fuel pump to the fuel line fitting on the top of the pump, bent a piece of 1/4 brake line at a 90 degree angle like in the picture (I don't have a tube bender but I shoved a piece of wire up the line before I bent it so it couldn't kink). I then found a piece of 5/8 heater hose that would fit the entire length of the little plastic tube without covering up the bumps that snap into the clips on each end, cut a slit up the back, poked a hole so the line could go through, and siliconed everything up with fuel resistant RTV before I put it all together and hose clamped it on both ends like in the picture, and let it set up for 24 hours before I reassembled the sending unit.

Last edited by specialed1995; December 7th, 2016 at 21:23.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 8th, 2016, 16:18   #33
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

Today I found a piece of 2 inch square x 4 foot steel tubing at work that is going to be my new engine crossmember. It looks like a piece off an old engine support bracket, but it's big enough to be cut down and made to fit and thick enough to support anything the engine will put it through.
I love saving money like this whenever possible, I'm probably one of the cheapest guys out there lol. But it's paid off because now I have the cash to do this project!!!
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 11th, 2016, 15:01   #34
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

Hello Everyone, just wanted to start posting some photos of what I've got so far just so you guys know I'm serious about doing this.



This is going to be my adjustable clutch pedal rod. I went to the hardware store and bought a 3/8 fine thread hex standoff, a 1 1/2 bolt and nut of the same threads, and plan on cutting the middle round second of the rod out, leaving only a little flat spot on each side to weld the looped end to the standoff and the other to the head of the bolt.
Then I'll thread everything together and use the nut as a jam nut to lock everything down once I get it adjusted where I like it. To adjust it I can just loosen the jam nut and turn the bolt end that goes into the master cylinder, which spins freely inside it but is locked in by clips, and lock it back down. Once I get this welded up I'll post just how much adjustment it gives me.

Here's a picture of all my clutch hydraulic parts:


I found a Saturn clutch master and slave cylinder set for $56 on ebay here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-CLUTCH-SL...ytnHBQ&vxp=mtr

I bought the AN 4 straight female ends from Summit a while back, along with the vise jaw inserts (which are not pictured) to put the ends on once I get the proper length figured out.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220490b

I found the clutch hose fittings on ebay, they are threaded for AN 4 and the other end fits perfectly into both the master and slave cylinders, and they are held in by roll pins.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331423849295...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I can't remember where I bought the steel braided hose off the top of my head, but I know it's a 2 foot piece, which should be more than enough. I will post the link to it later once I figure out where I bought it.


Here are some pictures of the factory Saturn fuel pump before I modified it to make it a lift pump, I'll post some pictures of it modified later on this week.


Last edited by specialed1995; December 11th, 2016 at 15:20.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 11th, 2016, 15:34   #35
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

Here are some pictures of the gas pedal assembly that I plan on using in my swap, bolted onto the free bracket I found at work that the pedal bolted to perfectly, albeit on a bit of an angle, but when I weld it to the bracket I make for the Saturn firewall I can compensate for that and make everything straight. I'll also drill another hole and put a bolt with a nut on it sticking through just so I know it's 100% secure.


I didn't like the way the factory TDI pedal was plastic, so I bought the pedal assembly from a 99-04 Eurovan that had the normal pedal and switched the circuit board from the diesel one to this one. Everything else about the assembly looked identical, the only differences I could see were in the circuit board, so I don't see why this shouldn't work, maybe one of you guys have attempted it before and can tell me?

Last edited by specialed1995; December 11th, 2016 at 15:38.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 14th, 2016, 20:20   #36
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

Ok Guys I spent about 3 hours today just copying and pasting wiring diagrams from alldata for a 1995 Saturn SL (The year I have chosen to use with this project) and filling in more gaps in my wiring diagram, which I hope to post on here one of these days, but the image is quite large and everything is clustered together, but as long as I can figure it out I guess I'm good lol.

I still need to take more pictures of all the things I have so far but I haven't got around to it yet.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 17th, 2016, 12:16   #37
Windex
Veteran Member
 
Windex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cambridge
Fuel Economy: ʎɯouoɔƎ lǝnℲ
Default

If you get stuck on the wiring, give me a holler. I worked as a Saturn tech from 1991 to 1998, and know the 1995's like the back of my hand.

If it's not a southern car, make sure to take out the driver's seat and check the wiring splice that runs under the seat from the console to the door - they tend to corrode and make the door locks do silly things.

Also check the subframe thoroughly - they rust really easily.
__________________

Proudly installing things where they're not supposed to go since 1996!
Windex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 18th, 2016, 20:18   #38
ToddA1
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ 08002
Fuel Economy: Dismal
Default

I've gotta ask... what's the facination with Saturn? Is there a following for these cars?

-Todd
__________________
'96 B4V: Kerma tune and PP520s
'97 B4: Stock
Rabbit build
ToddA1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 19th, 2016, 19:59   #39
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Windex View Post
If you get stuck on the wiring, give me a holler. I worked as a Saturn tech from 1991 to 1998, and know the 1995's like the back of my hand.

If it's not a southern car, make sure to take out the driver's seat and check the wiring splice that runs under the seat from the console to the door - they tend to corrode and make the door locks do silly things.

Also check the subframe thoroughly - they rust really easily.
Thanks for the advice!!! I honestly don't like power door locks and am looking for a Saturn without power locks or windows just to keep things simple. And I do have a good back up subframe in case the one in the car I get is too rusted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
I've gotta ask... what's the facination with Saturn? Is there a following for these cars?

-Todd

Yes, the Saturn S-Series has quite a following as they are cheap, dependable cars that get great fuel economy. A lot of guys also like modding them and doing performance stuff too. I've been driving a 2002 SL since I was 16 (still have it, the only car I've ever owned to date) and I wouldn't trade it for anything. There's also a SaturnFans Forum http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=23 that has been a tremendous help to me with my Saturn over the years.

I personally love the way the S-Series cars look, how easy they are to work on (for the most part), parts are very cheap, and they were one of the most fuel efficient cars of their day. They have a polymer body, so they don't rust out the same way most cars do. The subframe and unibody do rust in places, of course, but most of the time it can be fixed.
Pretty much the only thing that kills the engines in them are not checking the oil regularly (The S-Series is notorious for burning oil), automatic transmission problems, and the rare problem of the diff pin leaving the transaxle (rare as I said, but it's happened a few times).


I am eliminating all of that stuff with this swap of course, but I'll basically have the same old Saturn that I know and love body and suspension wise, but with the much more fuel effiencent TDI drivetrain with bolt in modified subframe, which should make this swap easy to swap into another Saturn if the need ever arises, other than switching over the wiring and the shifter mechanism and all that stuff.

I think that the aerodynamics of the body are what gives this swap the fuel efficiency over the VW cars, because the weight difference between the two drivetrains is negligible at best. I don't know what else it could be?

On a side note I am still looking for an AHU complete engine with wiring harness, if anyone out there knows where I can get one. I'd rather not buy a whole car and take all the parts, but if that's what I have to do then so be it.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old December 31st, 2016, 16:51   #40
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

I haven't updated this thread for awhile, but I have made more progress towards getting this project done.

First of all, I finally got my machined axles bushings in the mail, so I'm one step closer to getting the project done. I'll post pictures of them soon.

I also ordered a block heater kit that I plan on routing down behind the passenger side bumper fascia and tucking it back there so it is easily accessed and it will be on the right side of the car since I have to park on the street.

My two thermostatic switches also came in the mail, one I plan on using as a fan switch, and the other I'll wire up to the overheat light.

Does anyone know a good remote oil filter kit for the AHU? I plan on moving it to make it easier to access and not interfere with the engine cradle.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 21st, 2017, 16:38   #41
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

For those of you that are not aware, CFM's original Saturn TDI is gone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lilcraigford;



On Tuesday, January 10th, after eight years and over 100k miles of service, the Saturn TDI was officially retired. Over the weekend it was discovered that the car was sitting atop a terminal amount of oil. Without the time or means to diagnose (let alone fix) the issue my father decided that the car had exceeded its useful lifespan. That Sunday a deal was struck up for a 2012 Toyota Prius C and a few days later, with the oil topped off and a few extra quarts on hand, the Saturn TDI took to the road one last time. The dealership selling the Prius accepted what remained of the car as a trade-in.

The Saturn TDI achieved an all time high of 72.3 MPG.

Build Thread: TDIClub - Saturn TDI Conversion

Swap Summary:
1995 Saturn SL2
1997 Volkswagen AHU Turbo Diesel
1997 Volkswagen 02A/CHA 5-Speed Transaxle

Modified Saturn S-Series Engine Cradle
Custom Drivetrain Mounts
Hybrid Axles (Volkswagen Inner/Saturn Outer)
TDI ECU & Wiring Harness
Rocket Chip Stage 2 Chip
Dakota Digital Signal Converters (Speedometer/Tachometer)
Adapted Volkswagen Passat Shifter
Front Mount Intercooler (Modified Saab Item)
Secondary Thermostat (Modified Renault Alliance Item)
Secondary Trunk Mounted Battery
Sachs VR6 Clutch

Exterior Mirror Delete (Custom Inboard Mirrors)
Forward Mounted Headlights
Lower Grill Blockoff
Smooth Wheel Covers
Under-Nose Belly Pan



Here is the link to the original post:

http://sixthsphere.com/showthread.ph...=1#post1526530


Hearing this news is very saddening to me, and trading a Saturn for a Prius seems like sacrilege to me. Plus all that time, effort, and money he put into building that car there's no way I could get rid of it, but that's just me. Once I pull this swap off there will be no "retiring" it. I am doing this because I love the Saturn S-Series and plan on driving them for the rest of my life. And once this swap is done I'll have the not only the world's most fuel efficient Saturn, but also the only Saturn TDI on the road, unless someone else snags up CFM's old one. Still such a shame to see that car cast aside for an oil leak, albeit a major one.

As long as I keep the unibody and engine cradle from rusting out, the rest of the car is just parts that can be replaced. As long as some moron doesn't crash into me I plan on seeing just how many miles I can put on this car. I hope to catch up with the likes of Luke over on Saturnfans who logged over 653,000 miles on his 1995 Saturn SL.

As far as my swap goes I am currently in the works of obtaining an AHU engine and wiring harness from a fellow TDI club user and hopefully I'll have it in my possession within the next two weeks. Now I'll have to search for a transmission.

Last edited by specialed1995; January 23rd, 2017 at 17:13.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 21st, 2017, 17:23   #42
ToddA1
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ 08002
Fuel Economy: Dismal
Default

Shame… I'm sure the dealership is going to send that car to the scrapyard. Unsure if they can even legally sell something like that.

I wonder what the mileage would've been with the proper CTN transmission.

I've been in that boat. I had an old 1981 civic that wouldn't die. Fugly car inside and out, but the motor and trans was amazing.

I ended up sending it to the scrap yard when a CV joint broke. I had no desire to fix it.

-Todd
__________________
'96 B4V: Kerma tune and PP520s
'97 B4: Stock
Rabbit build
ToddA1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 21st, 2017, 17:36   #43
Windex
Veteran Member
 
Windex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cambridge
Fuel Economy: ʎɯouoɔƎ lǝnℲ
Default

I can't believe with all of that custom fabrication work that he just traded it in. Those mount brackets he made were pure art. Same with the shifter in the interior.

Some wholesaler will buy it for $200 and hopefully sells it to someone who realizes how special that car is.
__________________

Proudly installing things where they're not supposed to go since 1996!
Windex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 5th, 2017, 19:35   #44
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

I've purchased a Fumoto oil drain valve for this Saturn TDI project, Part # F106N with the ADP106 adapter so the valve clears the recessed oil plug on the engine. I've been using a Fumoto valve on my 2002 Saturn and my Chevy truck for years now and love how much easier they make changing the oil, no tools required.

Here's a picture of the valve for those who don't know what it is.

This is the adapter to space it out from the oil pan.

And here's what it looks like installed on an engine.


My engine that I purchased is currently in transit via UPS and is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow, so hopefully I can have some pictures posted of it once it's in my garage.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 16th, 2017, 19:28   #45
specialed1995
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Default

I now have the engine for the swap in my possession. It is a 1Z from a 1996 Passat. I haven't have a chance to take my own pictures yet, but here are the pictures that were sent to me before I purchased it.







It's obviously not 100% complete so I'm going to have to buy an alternator, crankcase breather tube, harmonic balancer and a tensioner pulley, among other things, along with replacing all the vacuum hoses and coolant hoses, timing belt, clutch and flywheel, along with any other things that are recommended or that I find that I need along the way.

If you guys have anymore recommendations on anything please let me know. I'm still trying to figure out how to run the water pump and AC compressor after I delete the power steering pump. I know they make a pulley for non AC cars to run the water pump off the serpentine belt instead of the V-belt but again that's without AC and I plan on keeping the AC in my conversion.

Last edited by specialed1995; February 16th, 2017 at 19:31.
specialed1995 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Saturn TDI Conversion CFM TDI Conversions 279 September 29th, 2017 06:32
saturn clutch greenskeeper General Automotive 0 January 10th, 2012 15:26
Saturn VUE conversion TDI candidate Sand Bag TDI Conversions 2 August 11th, 2009 04:57
tdi into 04 saturn? Toby_B TDI Conversions 37 October 18th, 2007 19:13
Saturn matt1 General Automotive 26 September 21st, 2006 15:00


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 00:42.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright - TDIClub Online LTD - 2017
Contact Us | Privacy Statement | Forum Rules | Disclaimer
TDIClub Online Ltd (TDIClub.com) is not affiliated with the VWoA or VWAG and is supported by contributions from viewers like you.
© 1996 - 2017, All Rights Reserved
Page generated in 0.21311 seconds with 10 queries
[Output: 138.96 Kb. compressed to 117.64 Kb. by saving 21.32 Kb. (15.34%)]