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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old May 19th, 2016, 11:36   #16
vtpsd
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Fuel Economy: 45mpg avg
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Pulling the turbo is pretty easy from the bottom of these cars. I had mine out in about 45 mins and was able to get it spotless inside when totally apart. I prefer that method to the oven cleaner sprayed in the exhaust outlet method.
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Old May 19th, 2016, 13:51   #17
UhOh
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Not all turbos with sticking vanes are salvageable. It has been noted that the base plate the vanes attach to sometimes are warped- no amount of cleaning is going to resolve this problem.

If you know you have problems related to the turbo itself and you have lots of miles/kms on your turbo then it might just be better to replace the turbo (new ones, esp vnt15s, are pretty cheap these days- not pocket change, but one or two monthly car payments). Slap the new one on and never look back.
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Old May 19th, 2016, 14:50   #18
Friday1
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Default Turbo

Started troubleshooting it today. The actuator at the turbo is bad. The vanes don't move at all. The vacuum line to the turbo doesn't hold. Is there a source on this forum for a turbo, gaskets, and actuator? I guess putting some $$ in this car is a good investment. It has served me well until now.
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Old May 19th, 2016, 15:58   #19
aja8888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friday1 View Post
Started troubleshooting it today. The actuator at the turbo is bad. The vanes don't move at all. The vacuum line to the turbo doesn't hold. Is there a source on this forum for a turbo, gaskets, and actuator? I guess putting some $$ in this car is a good investment. It has served me well until now.

You have been a member here for 13 years and don't know we support vendors on the site?

Try this: http://www.idparts.com/
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Old May 20th, 2016, 06:43   #20
BobnOH
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So we have multiple issues. I would disconnect the actuator rod from the turbo vnt and see if the vanes will move. This situation is covered extensively in the forum and especially in the limp mode/low power thread. Do a complete diagnose before replacing parts, some of these things are quite expensive.
Here is a partial list of vendors-
www.dieselgeek.com
cascadegerman.com
www.idparts.com
www.metalmanparts.com
VW Dealership parts-
www.1stvwparts.com
www.expressoemparts.com/
and more at
http://www.tdiclub.com/links/tdivendors.html
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Old May 20th, 2016, 07:28   #21
Friday1
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Vanes are stuck, actuator is bad, vacuum line is bad to actuator. Parts ordered from ID Parts this morning. Looks like I will be keeping this car a while. This is the first big money I have spent on it in 13 years. It has served me well so no complaints,
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Old May 20th, 2016, 10:06   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friday1 View Post
Vanes are stuck, actuator is bad, vacuum line is bad to actuator. Parts ordered from ID Parts this morning. Looks like I will be keeping this car a while. This is the first big money I have spent on it in 13 years. It has served me well so no complaints,
Another TDI kept alive and our excellent vendors supported Expect a happy ending to this story
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Old May 21st, 2016, 17:14   #23
TreasureLife
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Smile Vacuum lines replaced!

I tackled my vacuum lines today. It took me several hours but I'm crossing my fingers that my Limp Mode is cured! I've taken Gretta out and drove her hard and haven't lost boost. I ended up replacing:
  • Brake Booster hose w/check valve
  • N75
  • Check Valve
  • 5mm hose
  • 3mm hose
  • Vacuum Reservoir
I got my hose from BoostController.com i ordered turbo logic hose, I got 15' of 3mm and 10' of 5mm (had plenty left over of both). Very nice heavy duty hose! I went by this length info i found:
Per ETKA for the A4s:
3,5 X 2 (part number N 020 353 5)
350 mm from main vacuum line to a T
80 mm from a T to the N18 (black top valve)
170 mm from a T to a small check valve
45 mm from a T to the N75 (white top valve)
530 mm from a T to the vacuum canister (damper)
1000 mm from turbo to a connecting pipe
60 mm from a T to a T
180 mm from a T to N239 (change over valve)
120 mm from N239 to vacuum actuator
5 X 3 (part number N 020 282 1)
360 mm from N18 to EGR valve
50 mm from N75 to connecting pipe (going to turbo)
320 mm from N75 to fresh air line T
80 mm from N18 to fresh air line T
300 mm from air box to fresh air line T
T pieces are part number 113 201 943 B
small vacuum check valve is 046 905 291 A
connecting pipe is 06A 133 382 K
And routed it according to this diagram:https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8722/...6acf578c_b.jpg
Hope this solves my problem. I'll keep driving it hard and see if it's really fixed!
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Old May 21st, 2016, 19:10   #24
aja8888
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Thanks for the breakdown. That is handy for someone doing the same.
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Old May 26th, 2016, 07:23   #25
Friday1
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Default Turbo pre lube

Is there a fuse I can remove to keep the motor from starting, or a preferred method so can make sure the turbo has oil on first start? Thanks in advance.
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Old March 2nd, 2018, 13:09   #26
TreasureLife
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Quick update: after all i replaced last time still getting over-boast codes and limp mode. Not sure what to do still drives great 99% of the time. Guessing need to pull turbo off, rebuild

frustrating
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Old March 2nd, 2018, 13:52   #27
BobnOH
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What is your actual code? There are other things that can cause this, I'd rule them out before you go at the turbo, unless you know it is bad.
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Old March 2nd, 2018, 20:01   #28
wonneber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friday1 View Post
Vanes are stuck, actuator is bad, vacuum line is bad to actuator. Parts ordered from ID Parts this morning. Looks like I will be keeping this car a while. This is the first big money I have spent on it in 13 years. It has served me well so no complaints,
Same with mine. Only alternator & tensioner problems.
Bought mine new.
I always had good luck with VW's going back to air cooled days.
Couldn't begin to guess how many bugs I had back then not to mention the others.
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Old March 7th, 2018, 01:36   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TreasureLife View Post
Quick update: after all i replaced last time still getting over-boast codes and limp mode. Not sure what to do still drives great 99% of the time. Guessing need to pull turbo off, rebuild

frustrating
Sorry if I missed it, but have you tried adjusting you actuator rod?

I believe that normally you can detect if vanes are sticking -there's a lull in rpm pick up- in which case sometimes one can exercise this out (I did on the wife's car, though it took a couple of years of limited hands-on thrashing to free up- was pretty subtle sticking).
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Old March 13th, 2018, 14:20   #30
Nevada_TDI
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Some have tried running the engine in a lower gear at highway speed to put more heat into the turbo vanes to possibly free them up.
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