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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old September 23rd, 2010, 12:05   #196
claymthomas
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Location: New Orleans
TDI(s): 2000 VW Bug
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Rackaracka,

Thanks for the advice. It was a pinch in the head seal and guess it was sucking air. I've now changed the head seal 7 times and it leaked on the last one too. Various reasons. Now can't get it started. It was running fine yesterday...still leaking though. So I changed it again this morning (getting very good at it). Now it won't start and I think it doesn't have all the air out. But not sure. I'm beat trying to figure it out. It doesn't have any pressure coming out of the IP when it turns over now. I would think it would come out of there quicker, but I didn't check it to see before so I don't have any comparisons. It's coming out as the engine turns over, but not like high pressure.

I think it's strange that after 6 or 7 seal changes, primes and starts that this time is different. But who knows. I may have to take the IP out and have it shipped off to Oregon.

Clay
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 11:54   #197
bnetwork
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When driving my Discovery 110 300TDI (mechanical Bosh VE pump there), engine suddenly stopped.

Examination revealed that:
-- fuel is NOT COMING out when I loos injector's pipes and crank engine;
-- fuel filters/hoses are clean and fuel lift up filter is OK;
-- cut off solenoid seem to be OK ( it is clicking when I connect/disconnect power wire);
-- timing is OK and pump's rotor is spinning when crank engine;
-- fuel pump is full of fuel.When I remove drain plugs ( there are 2 one on this pump) and crank fuel is coming up OK;
-- there are no signs of leaking fuel from the pump;
-- I can't feel any pressure on injector pipes when I put my finger there.

I live in Angola so no way to find any qualified diesel mechanic here :-(

Please help
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 12:50   #198
DanG144
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Check that any pumps that supply fuel to the injection pump have power and do run. There may be none (as on an ALH or there may be two as on our VW common rail engines.

Check that there are no cracks or breaks in the lines and filters that supply the injection pump, if it is the kind with no supply pumps. If there is a tiny break in the line, it will suck air rather than fuel.

Check the pickup screen in the tank is clear.

You can supply the injection pump with clean filtered fuel from a gravity feed bottle and see if it will then run. That will help you eliminate fuel supply line issues. This is only if the pump has no electric supply pumps.

Last edited by DanG144; October 2nd, 2010 at 12:53.
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 13:09   #199
bnetwork
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Thank you, DanG144
Landrover 300TDI has pre-filter, fuel filter and "lift-up" mechanical pump driven by engine. This pump is working well (when cranking, draw considerable amount of fuel to main fuel filter on every rotation).
Will do a gravity feed method tomorrow morning.
By the way, what is a "pickup screen in the tank" thing?
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 16:06   #200
DanG144
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I am not sure if yours has one, but most cars do. It is a screen or fiber bag over the pickup tube. It provides a coarse filtration prior to the fuel filter and pumps.

They can plug up with rust flakes, or a felt like growth in the diesel fuel.

On our VW's they have other features, too, such as providing a surge volume for operatiing at low fuel levels on hills. Ours are pretty fancy, and go in and out from the top very easily - so no need to drop the tank to clean the tank or the fuel pickup.

Many other vehicles require dropping the tank. I have no idea what yours has.

But I happen to know an expatriate Englishman that brought that engine here to the US from England and put it in a Landrover. The engine was not available here in the states.

I will make him aware of this post, and he can perhaps help you out. He can fix anything he can get his hands on. Not sure about through the internet.
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 16:08   #201
DanG144
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Does your VE pump have a fuel cutout solenoid on it?

If so ensure it has 12 v feed to it. If that does not work, it probably can have the innards removed. That will let it run, but may present a problem for shutting it down.
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 17:59   #202
piper109
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I am familiar with the fuel system on the 300tdi. There is a "sedimenter" on the fuel line between the tank and the lift pump. It has a glass cover and if it is full of sediment it will strangle the fuel supply. There is not usually a strainer in the fuel tank pick-up (attached to the tank gauge sender unit)
The lift pump is a mechanical diaphragm pump that looks like a gasoline or petrol pump from years ago. It has a lever on it which permits you to fill a new fuel filter by hand pumping. It puts out about 5 psi (about 0.3 bar). Sometimes they go bad but the IP should still pull the fuel from the tank if there is no air leak.
After the lift pump there is a fuel filter on the firewall and from there the fuel goes to the IP. The IP has a fuel solenoid on it just like the IP's found on VW diesel engines.
From what you are describing, you have tried all the normal tests. The pump is full, the solenoid is clicking, the pump is rotating and you have checked the pump timing.
I like to put a transparent pipe between the filter and the IP so you can immediately see if there is a problem (bubbles etc). If you are turning the engine over with the starter and your foot fully on the pedal, you should eventually get fuel at the injectors when the fittings are loosened.

Its unlikely that the fuel solenoid has gone bad but it does happen. This will certainly produce the symptoms you describe and occur suddenly. I had a wire come off mine once. The engine stopped at 100 kph so I had to coast to the side. Of course it was dark too. It would be simple to replace with a new or borrowed solenoid and eliminate that possibility. It may even be your problem!.

If that is not the cause it would seem that the pump has died and is producing no output pressure even though it is full of fuel. Hopefully that is not the cause as it means big money.
You can download free a manual called "Rave" which is hundreds of pages long covering the 110 Defender and other Land Rovers. If you do not already have it let me know and I will find the website.

Steve
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Old October 16th, 2010, 10:51   #203
mtdi_noob
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what parts do i have to change in to a TD pump to convert it to a m-tdi pump? thanks
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Old November 7th, 2010, 12:19   #204
goldandblack
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I have a TDI injection pump problem. I have a 1997 TDI Passat with 186,000+ miles. Problem started a year ago when it began to lose power. Took to in (not to VW) and they cleaned out the turbo and it ran like normal for about 6 months and it began to lose power. Just took it in (not to VW) and they cleaned the turbo out and replaced a couple hoses and when I picked up the car I was told the injection pump was leaking, they were correct. I was able to drive it home with it leaking badly. It now sits till I can replace the injection pump. Should I buy a kit for the injection pump or a new injection pump ? This is the situation I am in and wondering what is the best way to go. If I buy a kit I will have someone do the work. VW wants $1500 for a new injection pump. I live in southern Indiana, does anyone know in this area that does this kind of work (besides VW) in installing a kit or injection pump ?
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Old November 7th, 2010, 12:43   #205
BobnOH
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DFIS is the best pump rebuilder in North America, if you can tolerate the shipping time. Some people have reported success with seal replacements on leaky pumps, there should be parts available. If you go that route, you need to be meticulous
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Old November 8th, 2010, 02:48   #206
far_cry
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Quote:
The pump can be described as having 2 separate pumps. The first is often described as a "Low Stage Vane type pump" This provides "Head Pressure" to make the fuel push its way into the plunger chamber fast enough not to allow cavitation of the plunger. The pressure of the pump is around around 100 psi. When the plunger compresses the fuel the pressures can reach as high as 19,000 psi at the fuel nozzle.
can anybody tell me what the mean of this, and what will happen when you have bad Low Stage Vane type pump ??
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Old November 8th, 2010, 09:57   #207
DanG144
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If the low pressure vane pump is not producing pressure, then the high pressure pump pistons may not fill completely. This would produce unreliable volumes of fuel to the injectors, varying unpredictably.

Have you checked that your pressure regulator is still intact? The low pressure pump is fairly robust and reliable.
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Old November 9th, 2010, 02:37   #208
Dieselson
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If your turbo needs to be cleaned it sounds like the oil/separator valve is not functioning properly and this vapor is gumming up the turbo. I'm not sure what your injection pump has but if you have some mechanical ability's I'd get the seal kit and maybe the shaft bushing/ bearing and a timing kit since your worst case scenario is a new pump with a shop mechanic. You might find some good deals here. http://www.dieselvw.com/ Keep us informed.
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Old November 10th, 2010, 03:52   #209
TonyJetta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjb2c View Post
You might find some good deals here. http://www.dieselvw.com/ Keep us informed.
That looks like a prothe site to me! i.e. cheap chinese knock-off parts! Just remember you get what you pay for! And, there is NO free lunch!

Personally, I WILL NEVER BUY ANYTHING from this site or any like it.

Tony
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Old November 10th, 2010, 04:20   #210
TornadoRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyJetta View Post
That looks like a prothe site to me! i.e. cheap chinese knock-off parts! Just remember you get what you pay for! And, there is NO free lunch!

Personally, I WILL NEVER BUY ANYTHING from this site or any like it.
I think you're right. There have been many horror stories -- customers will receive the wrong products, or inferior products, or both. And if they have to return an incorrect part, it can take many months to get a refund.

It is simply too risky to do any business at all with this firm, no matter which name it happens to be doing business as.
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