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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old December 7th, 2016, 19:34   #16
mobetta
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nice build

several years ago I helped a buddy squeeze an OM617 + AX15 into a Toyota one ton. slightly different build, but The Truck was/is a great "little truck"

Good Luck!
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 11:39   #17
frambach
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Default Cooling system ?'s



Looking at the diagram:

- I had to bob off the coolant hard pipe (under the IP) because it was hitting the bellhousing adapter and it took up valuable space at the rear of the head (where my 3" exhaust is routed)
- will our engine have sufficient coolant flow when the heater valve is closed? Or is a heater core bypass in order?
- can I simplify our cooling system further by simply capping the small nipple at the rear of the head (that originally ran over to the expansion tank) and doing away with the 4-way I've designed?

This build should make somewhere in the neighborhood of 220hp/340tq.

Our cooling system hardware is:

- beefy Griffin aluminum radiator (core dims: 2.68" x 17" x 15.5")
- 1250CFM 13" Spal puller fan
- a normal radiator cap going over to the stock Toyota coolant reservoir

Other data that may be useful:

- using a big front mount intercooler (core dims: 2.75" x 14.5" x 15")
- and (if it will fit), the Passat BHW heat exchanger
- no A/C at the moment but that is something I would like to have in the future

Last edited by frambach; January 23rd, 2017 at 14:58. Reason: Added arrows
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 12:31   #18
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It is my understanding that you can't just block off the heater core. You will need a bypass. Do you have a pic of your exhaust in that area? That's how I'm doing mine and would like to see how yours came out.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 12:59   #19
frambach
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I'll grab a pic of the exhaust next trip out there. It looks bad to the bone!

I was thinking on the AHU's, you couldn't have the heater valve block the flow but with our design, we will still have flow.

In the schematic, you can see that we will still have flow coming down out of the back of the head. The question is will that provide enough flow to keep everything cool.

If I remember right, Jimbote said it would be OK. Just wanting to make sure I'm 100% clear to move forward with this design.

Also curious about the nipple at the back of the head.

Last edited by frambach; February 2nd, 2017 at 14:33.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 13:20   #20
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The nipple on the back of the head is for burping bubbles out of the head

-J
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 13:37   #21
frambach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
The nipple on the back of the head is for burping bubbles out of the head

-J

This might be obvious to some but, it isn't to me. Does that mean it can or can not be capped off?

Thank you for your help and the additional clarification.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 13:40   #22
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Absolutely cannot be capped off.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 13:46   #23
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Also, looking at your diagram, I'm not sure the oil cooler is correct. I think the red and blue portions should be swapped (or a different red used after the cooler?)

-J
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 14:08   #24
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Yes, the red and blue don't work well. Would be best to just put arrows for direction of flow.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 14:09   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Steve View Post
TDI Cooling System Schematic



1 - Expansion tank
2 - Intake manifold
3 - EGR cooler
4 - Connector
5 - Heater core
6 - Coolant center line
7 - ATF cooler (Vehicles with automatic transmission)
8 - Coolant hose, upper
9 - Coolant hose, lower
10 - Radiator
11 - Oil cooler
12 - Coolant pump/coolant thermostat
13 - Cylinder head/cylinder block


Cooling System Components



1 - Connector
2 - Coolant hose, upper
3 - To heater core
4 - From heater core
5 - To connector in coolant hose, upper
6 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor (G62) Blue in color
7 - Bracket
8 - O-ring
9 - Connector (Always replace)
10 - Bolt: 10 Nm (7 ft lb)
11 - Coolant line
12 - To radiator, upper part
13 - O-ring (Always replace)
14 - To expansion tank, lower part
15 - Bolt - 15 Nm (11 ft lb)
16 - From radiator, lower part
17 - Coolant thermostat
18 - Oil cooler
19 - Coolant or Water-pump
20 - Cooler For EGR
21 - To expansion tank, upper


Radiator Fan Diagrams



1 - Radiator
2 - O-ring (Always replace)
3 - Coolant hose, upper
4 - Connector
5 - Retaining clip
6 - A/C Cut-out Thermal Switch -F163-
7 - From connector on cylinder head
8 - From connector on cylinder head/connector
9 - From ATF cooler (Only for vehicles with automatic transmission)
10 - Electrical connector / Color: black
11 - Cap: Test pressure 1.4 to 1.6 bar
12 - Bolt: tighten to 10 Nm (7 ft lb)
13 - Coolant expansion tank
14 - From connector to radiator for EGR/connector
15 - To cylinder head
16 - Fan shroud
17 - Right coolant fan -V35-
18 - Fan bracket
19 - Retaining clip
20 - Coolant fan -V7-
21 - Bracket
22 - Coolant hose, lower
23 - Electrical connector / Black, 3-pin connector
24 - Coolant Fan Control (FC) Thermal Switch -F18-
* Stage 1. 0N: 92 to 97 C
* Stage 1. OFF: 84 to 91 C
* Stage 2. ON: 99 to 105 C
* Stage 2. OFF: 91 to 98 C
25 - Bracket


ALH Coolant Water-pump



1. Idler Pully Bolt
2. Idler Pully
3. Pump Housing Bolt
4. Coolant Water-pump
5. O-ring seal


Thermostat 195*F.



1. Mounting Bolt
2. Flange
3. O-ring
4. Thermostat


FYI - For draining G-12 coolant out of the cooling system, open the cooling system drain thumb screw (pictured below).



http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...99&postcount=2
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 14:35   #26
frambach
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Excellent information here and I truly do appreciate it!

Since it can't be capped, do you think running into my 4-way at an angle (like I have it) will work? I'm thinking by joining it in at an angle, it will help it to flow and perform properly.

I think the oil cooler will be fine. In the stock application, the coolant is supplied by the coolant flange at the rear of the head. Since I don't have room for it back there, I'm coming away from that flange a little piece and Y-ing off to go to the cooler. I'm thinking the angle of the connection should provide plenty of coolant flow.

As far as swapping the red and blue at the heat exchanger, I don't think that's an issue either as I believe the it just needs flow. I don't think it matters if it flows from the top to the bottom or the bottom to the top (in my diagram). It just has to have coolant in and coolant out.

In stock ALH applications, the red from my diagram would go to the lower of the two ports on the heat exchanger (both, lower in the diagram and the lower nipple on the actual unit). I might swap them up just to be safe though.

Now, some of this is just me thinking out loud if anyone has input, please don't hesitate to put it out there!
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 14:58   #27
frambach
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green, I've seen and studied that thread. Thanks for the link. That is where I got the idea to draw mine out.

I've updated the schematic to have arrows indicating flow direction. I've not changed flow direction in anything that I've done. I've tried to work with the direction to maximize the effectiveness of my tie-ins.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 17:44   #28
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the four way you have is fine but if you can route the small nipples outlet to the highest point possible in the upper rad hose or radiator it will bleed air from the system better as that is it's purpose
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 20:17   #29
frambach
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Thanks jimbote. Your input is much appreciated.

Rockwell, here is a pic of the exhaust. It's kind of hard to tell from the pic but it comes out of the turbo as a 2.5". I immediately bump it up to 3" and start going downward and toward the bellhousing. The reason for the 'dip' before going up and over the bell is to give a little more clearance on the coolant temp sensor wires and the hose I plan to send over to the heater core.


The other couple of exhaust pics can be found here:
http://imgur.com/a/GVYZI

Last edited by frambach; February 2nd, 2017 at 14:36.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 20:25   #30
frambach
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Forgot to mention I put a double-slip-joint in just behind the coolant flange out of the head - near the end that will have the upper rad hose connect.

(click image to get a better look)


The reason for the double-slip is so the exhaust can be removed. The way I'm envisioning it is:
- take the 3" v-band loose down by the heat exchanger
- slip that small 90* section of tubing out on the driver's side
- go around to the passenger side and remove the 2.5" v-band at the turbo outlet
- ease the downpipe out from around the back of the head

While I love v-bands. There was not enough room to get a 3" v-band out behind the head. That's why I went with the double slip.

Last edited by frambach; January 23rd, 2017 at 20:29.
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