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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old September 21st, 2015, 10:29   #1
frambach
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Default ALH into 1992 2wd Toyota dually

I'm trying to slide a ALH with a R150 into a 1992 Toyota dually chassis.

I can't see where anyone has put a ALH into a 2wd. I can find ALH's into 4x4's and AHU's into 2wd but not any 2wd/ALH combos.

So, here's why I'm here; the ALH's oil pan is hitting some of our steering components.


If you'd like to see the misalignment, there are more pics over on imgur http://imgur.com/a/rH28H. The trans is sitting on the frame crossmember in the pics but it really only has approximately 1/4" clearance when in it's proper location.

I'm wondering what my options are. The oil pump for the ALH is right up front - no way to notch the pan.

So, I thought about getting a 'drop' pitman arm and idler arm (if available) and move the steering components down.
If I move my steering components (steering cross link and stabilizer) down, how will that effect my steering geometry. If I can't find a drop pitman arm and idler arm, I might have to fabricate my own = open to tips.

There are drop pitmans for 4x4's but they are not the same part as the 2wd (balljoint is made into the 4x4 whereas the 2wd simply has a hole that receives the balljoint that's in the cross link).

Any help would be appreciated.

Pic of x-cab going onto dually chassis. Toyota never made a x-cab dually but I wanted a little more cab space so...

Last edited by frambach; September 21st, 2015 at 10:32.
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Old September 21st, 2015, 11:09   #2
Rockwell
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sweet build. Im doing an AHU into a 2wd pickup. Like you said, its easier with the AHU, here is how much I had to notch:



I couldn't find a drop pitman arm, I looked pretty hard. In my research it looked like the tie rod for manual steering hung a little lower but I never verified that because it never would have hung low enough. I hope you find a solution, I think that is going to be a sweet swap. My only suggestion is to maybe find an AHU and notch it, and use the ALH IP, turbo and electronics. This would also solve some firewall clearance concerns.
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Old September 21st, 2015, 11:24   #3
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Rockwell, I've been stalking you for a spell (& jimbote).

Your truck looks so good. Your wiring work is top notch too.

I appreciate the high res pic. I've seen your massive notch in your post. Since this motor is completely built (Whitbread) and ready to roll, I'd sure love it if I could just run it.

I don't have a AHU at my disposal currently. We'll see if that's the way we have to go. Hopefully, there's another work around <fingers crossed>
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Old September 21st, 2015, 12:03   #4
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Sorry, I cant resize it for some reason.
You could do something like this (from Total Chaos) with more of a drop and stock parts:

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Old September 21st, 2015, 19:21   #5
frambach
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I've seen their parts and it did get the creative juices flowing.

If I do just a drop 'section' of the centerlink, that should keep the geometry all factory. The only thing I can see for this in the negative column is making sure no strength gets compromised and I would, of course, have to verify that when the steering was turned to full lock, it didn't get into the side of the oil pan.

As it stands right now, I'm going to remove all the steering components and see if we can get the engine in properly. If we can, I'll have to figure out the steering down the road.

Thanks for all of your input.

Stole this pic from pirate4x4. It's different pitman arms. From top to bottom: 2wd pickup, FJ80, 4wd pickup. So, the FJ80 will lower it just a bit. However, it won't be enough and I don't know what to do to get the idler arm down some to match.
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Old September 22nd, 2015, 15:55   #6
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I checked lock to lock on my truck, plenty of clearance to oil pan.
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Old September 22nd, 2015, 18:56   #7
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I have an alh in a 1995 Toyota 2wd with no oil pan modification using an acme adaptor. Everything is moved 2.75" forward. It is a manual steering truck. The hood does shut with the factory intake manifold and an eBay "race pipe". It's close. Worst case, I may have to cut and angle the race pipe slightly downward and towards the passenger side then weld it for extra space. Pan is around 3/4" above the rack. I know your aware of this but I thought I'd throw it out there in summary.
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Old September 23rd, 2015, 11:22   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heathd View Post
I have an alh in a 1995 Toyota 2wd with no oil pan modification using an acme adaptor. Everything is moved 2.75" forward. It is a manual steering truck. The hood does shut with the factory intake manifold and an eBay "race pipe". It's close. Worst case, I may have to cut and angle the race pipe slightly downward and towards the passenger side then weld it for extra space. Pan is around 3/4" above the rack. I know your aware of this but I thought I'd throw it out there in summary.
keep in mind the op's truck has traditional steering box with steering linkage that is forward of the crossmember so the issues he is dealing with are a little different than your tacoma which has a much more compact steering rack rearward of the crossmember
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Old October 13th, 2016, 18:05   #9
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Did this project go any further? I wanna see that body on the frame!
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Old December 4th, 2016, 09:10   #10
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Did you get any further with this?
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Old December 5th, 2016, 19:41   #11
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This has been the worlds slowest project. Now, it's officially winter so, I doubt if a whole heck of a lot gets done for the next little bit.

But, since prompted:
- I fabbed up the drop center link (3.5" drop)
- the cab is on and all good
- the driveshaft was lengthened (auto trans has shorter driveshaft)
- stock intake and small race pipe removed in favor of a PD150 style intake and 57mm race pipe
- intercooler received
- all tubing, v-bands, reducers, etc for exhaust have been received
- my current projects are making the 3" stainless steel exhaust & cutting up the coolant hard pipe under the injection pump (to point in a more favorable position and free up valuable space at the rear of the cylinder head.

Pics of dropped center link below. Look in the second picture and you can see the drop that I made for the steering stabilizer as well.

I had all the parts CNC laser cut (and in the case of the steering stabilizer part, CNC formed) if anyone is interested in dropping their own center link, let me know and I can see what I can get the parts shipped for.


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Old December 5th, 2016, 19:54   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papasmurf View Post
Did this project go any further? I wanna see that body on the frame!
This truck hasn't seen the sun in years. I was too afraid to push it out with no way to steer it. It might roll forward out of the shop (caster) but, getting it back into the shop (uphill) would've been a bugger!

So, there are no good pics of the cab on the chassis. Furthermore, the 3VZ is sitting across the rear frame rails rather precariously. I'd have to remove it to roll the truck up over the weatherstrip hump.

Now that steering is complete, we will be able to move it more freely.

Just today I got one of the exhaust tubing parts I was waiting to try (double slip joint). So, maybe the exhaust will start moving forward again soon.

Here is one of the more recent shots as it sits now.

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Old December 5th, 2016, 20:05   #13
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Good deal. Is that a gtb1756? Are you de-pinning unused wires from the toyota ecu? I have a Mitchell on demand print outs that I'm looking over.
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Old December 5th, 2016, 20:17   #14
frambach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papasmurf View Post
Good deal. Is that a gtb1756? Are you de-pinning unused wires from the toyota ecu? I have a Mitchell on demand print outs that I'm looking over.
Yeah, it's a 1756. I'm removing all unused wire. Toyota wiring that is not needed is on the ground on the passenger side of the truck (not visible in last pic), Toyota wiring that is needed is draped across the top of the cab (visible in pic), and the stock ALH wiring is on the ground on the drivers side of the truck (haven't started clipping on it yet) - the mess on the floor that is partly in the shot.

Also on the cab in the last pic are two cardboard mockups of intercoolers we did. The first one was a little small so, I searched the www some more and found a bigger one and made a cardboard version of it. It's the one I ended up buying.

Last edited by frambach; December 5th, 2016 at 20:21.
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Old December 7th, 2016, 18:12   #15
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I finally have a factory print out of the toyota chassis cab wiring to pick through
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