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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old April 21st, 2016, 00:39   #61
Digital Corpus
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Added details about the ALH clutched pulley.
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Old April 21st, 2016, 06:30   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Corpus View Post
Two reasons I haven't bit the bullet on this yet.
1) for $75, I can buy the big bearing version of the plastic roller (for the hub) and a metal roller from Amazon for less
Right on... an understandable dilemma which I've also thought of. If you want to score the cheap roller on eBay just for the collar and bushing, it's totally understandable. My selling point here would be:
  • I make the collar and bushing assembly from stainless, which is higher-quality than what the Chinese use
  • I make the press-fit collar/sleeve with a larger OD in order to have more surface area against the flat spot on the rod
  • If I make the entire part here in the shop, then I can also assemble it all - saving you from having to press it all together.
  • I'm only charging $25 extra for the collar and bushing, which isn't much more than you'd be paying for the entire plastic roller assembly.
  • You're supporting a family business!

As for my billet roller vs the stamped metal you can buy, I guess you'll just have to decide that mine is worth the extra cash.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Corpus View Post
2) don't know the mass difference between the two
I can weigh it for you somehow if you're curious, that'll be no issue. I do have some spare 410 stainless sitting here if you want me to make one from that - no worries about that not being heavy enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Corpus View Post
I may still buy one off you with a reduced diameter since I'm running a larger alternator pulley, thus belt tension is higher.
Due to the stock roller being 3.075" in diameter, and 3.25/3.5" roundstock being substantially more expensive than 3.00" roundstock, I've been making the aluminum ones from 3" and cleaning up the OD, which brings it to about 2.985." Making a smaller OD (70mm/2.755" as you suggested) will be no problem.

Now for your PM'd question...

Quote:
Each and every roller I've seen has the belt riding right up on the outer edge. If the mount for the bearing, which you have @ 0.2638 or 6.7 mm was at 8 mm, this would be fixed.
I guess you're suggesting that I move the bearing further "right" in the pulley in order for the pulley to ride closer to the rod. That's something I've also looked at, and it's not really feasible to change the design. As you can see from this drawing, there is only 1mm difference between the rod land and the edge of the pulley as it is. This dimension is determined by the thickness of the press-fit sleeve that goes over the 17mm bushing.



Not to say that I couldn't make the left-hand outer edge of the pulley extend further, like this:



The easiest solution I've thought of is to remove the spring tensioner and place a very small washer on the end of the rod to shim it further in the left-hand direction.

And again, the larger bearing size will be no big deal at all.
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Last edited by thechoochlyman; April 21st, 2016 at 06:41.
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Old April 21st, 2016, 11:33   #63
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Well I just had a chance to make my shim and grease the rod. I measured the width of the shiny spot on the edge of my roller, which was about .100, so I made the washer .050" thick. (.375 OD, .240 ID)



Definitely centered up now.

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Old April 21st, 2016, 13:04   #64
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That solutions works quite well, actually. PM sending.
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Old April 23rd, 2016, 08:44   #65
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How about adding some info on diagnosing and repairing the rectifier boards on these alternators.
For example, my 120 amp alternator received a voltage surge, and blew a few of the six big heavy duty rectifier diodes on the board.
Good sources of quality parts, plus suggestions about the optimal way to go about doing it - replacing the entire board, or just the diodes - would be great.
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Old April 24th, 2016, 00:57   #66
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I've never looked into that, honestly. When I last had mine apart, I never was able to identify anything that resembles descrete components and I've read the whole black mass is a diode. I have quite a few things on my plate, and rebuilding one of these and making a tutorial is on the list. I'll look into breaking some spot welds and soldering things back up if I get to that bit during my vacation that starts Monday.
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Old August 9th, 2016, 05:54   #67
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I've been noticing some rattle coming from under the hood at idle, and it seems that my idler pulley bearing is getting a bit wobbly. Not as bad as the old one yet, but wobbly nonetheless. Not sure if it's the size, brand, or type of bearing that is causing it to be worn out so fast.

EDIT: After disassembly, it seems that the bearing wasn't that worn out after all. Seems identical to the other new one I had in my trunk. What I did discover was that the wheel bearing grease I used on the rod wasn't such a good idea - it was all gummed up, inhibiting both the movement of the rod and the tensioner spring. It even caused some galling on the end of the rod, which I cleaned up with sandpaper. I sprayed it all down with some white lithium grease-type lubricant I have here at shop, at am getting ready to reassemble. I cleaned out the tensioner really well and the travel is much better. This will probably fix things.

But in the future, I'll probably just start using the big bearings only - like what Digital Corpus has. By the way, how's yours holding up?

EDIT 2: Yes, it is much better.

EDIT 3: I managed to find one of those 6303 bearings on Amazon for about $5 shipped. It appears to be a new one that has a damaged box or something. Score for me!
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Last edited by thechoochlyman; August 9th, 2016 at 13:13.
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Old March 12th, 2017, 22:40   #68
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found an ebay user that may be reputable,

trimotors1e

the actual store is trio motor IU based in latvia.
heres a link to there store, bear in mind it needs translation from latvian,

https://triomotors.lv


his reviews are all very positive....
lists brands with rebuild kits and such
anyone ever use them?

link to his ebay store:

http://stores.ebay.ca/Trio-Motors-IU...p2047675.l2563
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Old March 14th, 2017, 20:46   #69
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I've never had issues with Latvian parts, myself.
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Old March 15th, 2017, 16:17   #70
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Tri Motors IU of Latvia has no rectifier boards for our Bosch alternators.
http://stores.ebay.com/Trio-Motors-I...nators-parts-/

When you search ebay you find some Bosch alternator rectifier parts, however be very careful, match to the exact right one needed.
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Old November 8th, 2017, 20:13   #71
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Our other B4 needs some parts so I’m looking around for alternates again. If you have a 17mm hub and want a full metal pulley for its inertial properties, then this guy might work for you since it is a mass produced part:
http://www.daycoproducts.com/part?part_number%3D89105

At 74 mm diameter, and assumed 90° of contact with the serpentine belt, it’ll have a little less tension as the belt will get ~0.2 more “slack”. Amazon is selling it for about $36 shipped. It is also a 2 bearing pulley.

If you have an A4 clutched pulley, you loose about 0.4” inches of belt length from the added diameter. This pulley would drop that delta to loosing only about 0.2” of belt length.

Less belt length in the path is greater tension and vice versa, more belt length is less tension.


Edit, so far my custom one is running beautifully.
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Last edited by Digital Corpus; November 9th, 2017 at 22:48.
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Old November 9th, 2017, 20:25   #72
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. . .

Last edited by turbodieseldyke; November 12th, 2017 at 15:38. Reason: n/a
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Old November 12th, 2017, 14:37   #73
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Corrected.

Also, the Gates 38087 has a 17mm hub and aa single 6203 bearing. The composite is PA66 with 35% glass fill, but is overmolded so once the bearing is gone, you cannot replace it. The 2-part, 16.8 mm hub is easily removable though, fwiw.
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Old November 13th, 2017, 12:35   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Corpus View Post
Our other B4 needs some parts so I’m looking around for alternates again. If you have a 17mm hub and want a full metal pulley for its inertial properties, then this guy might work for you since it is a mass produced part:
http://www.daycoproducts.com/part?part_number%3D89105

At 74 mm diameter, and assumed 90° of contact with the serpentine belt, it’ll have a little less tension as the belt will get ~0.2 more “slack”. Amazon is selling it for about $36 shipped. It is also a 2 bearing pulley.

If you have an A4 clutched pulley, you loose about 0.4” inches of belt length from the added diameter. This pulley would drop that delta to loosing only about 0.2” of belt length.

Less belt length in the path is greater tension and vice versa, more belt length is less tension.


Edit, so far my custom one is running beautifully.
I've had a spare 6203 aluminum pulley sitting on my desk for several months. Send me a PM if you want it and I'll cut you a deal.
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1997 Passat 5 speed - No longer bi-tone
2.5" Straight-pipe exhaust • CCV/EGR Deleted • Malone Stage 3, 2.0 IQ • Autometer Gauges • Billet Stuff
Billet Coolant Flanges - Idler Pulleys - CCV plates - Window Guide Clips
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Old February 23rd, 2018, 08:14   #75
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Can someone fix the broken pictures?
Thanks!

I dont see where to remve / solder the brushes.

[IMG][/IMG]
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