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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old March 4th, 2015, 18:30   #16
jokila
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psulik1 View Post
Hi, I just did this and wanted to offer my notes for anyone that may take a stab at this.

First it took me start to finish about 4 hours, I am not a mechanic but I know my way around a bit.

After all the controls/radio etc. were removed I got to the box. I didn't remove any screws or nuts like people mentioned, I just started prying and working the tabs and just worked my way from the sides/bottom and up. Took some careful prying but I got it. I didn't remove the back half, that's what the screws/nuts hold but I didn't see it necessary. I then cleaned the doors and applied the aluminum tape that was mentioned. It was mostly blind application because most of the doors are out of sight but I put a lot on trying to work my way from the top to the bottom, lots of overlap, I figured a little more may go a long way.

Snapped and assembled all back together and sure enough heat!

Not that I am an expert but if anyone ever has any questions feel free to contact me via PM and I would be more than happy to answer questions via phone or email.
I am familiar with the HVAC aluminum tape. So you didn't use any foam after you used the tape on the door panels?
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Old April 6th, 2015, 10:16   #17
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All: I've done this on 4 cars by pulling the dash and one via the shortcut method. Only one car had the HVAC box removed entirely, the other 4 done in-car. All using using high-heat aluminum tape with decent success, no replacement foam. (granted, I likely never had a car with fully intact foam and cannot tell you how it should feel.) Anyway, on the 'shortcut car' I had less heat than desired, A/C wasn't as cold as desired. I wanted to make sure the air-flow was sealing properly between the doors and case for temperature control and directional purposes; I re-did the 'shortcut car' on Saturday. This car hadn't been directing airflow well and I wanted to investigate. While this can be done via shortcut method, I'll tell you where I went wrong when I did it. Learn from my mistakes.
.
First big error:
I failed to get the center vent blow-molded plastic snapped properly to the HVAC box on the top. This has to hook at the bottom of the HVAC box, slide into the plastic directional elbow which feeds the vents, and snap to the tab on the top of the HVAC box. The 'tab' which retains it folded over on itself and held the two sealing surfaces apart. Not only did this slightly warp the plastic piece, but it obviously didn't seal against the box, causing a great deal of airflow to leak into the dash and not be directed to the vents. Note this when you're re-installing. That tab needs to lock onto the heater box (all while fitting inside the components above to direct airflow to the vents.)
.
Now, the tape-vs-foam debate. The aluminum tape will certainly block the holes in the doors, but it won't seal around the perimeter. This is why I like the foam method better. You're able to seal VERY well between the case and doors when they're closed. Its still tight, but you can put the foam over the 'edge' of the door with the door partially opened and use your fingers to 'bend' it around to the other side. The top and bottom of the doors, use your best judgement to add a little extra foam beyond the door (1/8"-1/4" above.) This creates a foam edge that seals against the plastic HVAC box, sealing very nicely. (don't over do it or the door won't seal on the other surface, creating a gap.) One later of 1/8" foam did the trick nicely. In my opinion, the car has an insane amount of airflow compared to my wife's ALH which I fixed with just aluminum tape, no foam. Fan setting one with all the air-flow out the vents is almost excessive.
.
Personally, I'd rather pull the dash to have a little better access for blend door foam application, have access to replace the foam between the dash and defrost vents, the dash and center vents, seal a little better between the ductwork for the rear vents, etc.
.
This is the foam I used for the door foam:
http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing...837-c-8589.htm
.
For the ductwork connections, I used a closed cell 1/2"x1/2" meant for sealing around doors, windows. Similar to this stuff, but I thought it was 1/2" x 1/2":
http://www.menards.com/main/doors-wi...344-c-3624.htm
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Old April 7th, 2015, 07:58   #18
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Tongsli: What are the specifics on the foam you ordered, i.e. thickness, density, sheet size?
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Old April 8th, 2015, 14:03   #19
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3574/=twr0ip

I ordered this foam from McMastercarr adhesive backed, 1/8 thick extra firm foam

Extreme-Temperature Textured Silicone Foam, Adhesive-Backed, 1/8" Thick, 12" x 12"

Extreme-Temperature Textured Silicone Foam, Adhesive-Backed, 1/8" Thick, 12" x 12" EXTRA FIRM
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3592/=wo0wzi
8608K522
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Last edited by tongsli; April 8th, 2015 at 14:07.
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Old April 8th, 2015, 18:55   #20
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So is the one 12 x 12 sheet enough to do both doors? Not really sure what the door sizes are.
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Old April 8th, 2015, 21:10   #21
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So is the one 12 x 12 sheet enough to do both doors? Not really sure what the door sizes are.
I don't know. Haven't installed it yet. Doh!
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Old April 9th, 2015, 08:19   #22
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So is the one 12 x 12 sheet enough to do both doors? Not really sure what the door sizes are.
I know the 2" wide stuff I used wasn't easy to get in the right place, so I imagine a piece the exact size of the door might be a bigger task.

While it might be large enough to do one side of both doors, I would certainly have more on hand. When you stick it to the door, aren't happy with the position, pull the piece off, you're not going to be sure about the condition of the adhesive. I know I threw away about twice as much insulation as I actually stuck to the doors. Stick it to the door, not happy, pull it off, throw it away. I'm not taking it apart again and don't want to question the adhesive.

Also, for the price of the stuff listed from McMaster, you can buy the roll from Menards for far less. Additionally, the roll is 720 sq-in vs 144 sq-in. You can screw up a LOT and still have plenty left-over to fix all the rattling panels
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Old April 15th, 2015, 20:27   #23
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All: I've done this on 4 cars by pulling the dash and one via the shortcut method. Only one car had the HVAC box removed entirely, the other 4 done in-car.

What exactly is the shortcut method?
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Old April 16th, 2015, 04:13   #24
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Leaving the dash in place as this thread describes.
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Old April 16th, 2015, 08:15   #25
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I was hoping for some quicker
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Old April 16th, 2015, 08:38   #26
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This is the quicker, see Post#1.
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Old April 16th, 2015, 20:51   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapse View Post
I was hoping for some quicker
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobnOH View Post
This is the quicker, see Post#1.
Yeup, pulling the dash will take an extra 90-120 (estimated) by the time you pull the wheel, steering column mounts, etc. You'll have better access to the doors this way, but its still not entertaining. If you'd like to spend WAY more time, you'd pull the HVAC box itself, split, and do the work on the bench.
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Old May 10th, 2015, 15:53   #28
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So I take it my current Jetta is well past the point of blowing foam -- my last one I got a little bit of it in the early stages of third-hand ownership -- so while I'd welcome better temps on both ends, my problem looks to lie in an inoperative blend door.

One morning about two weeks ago now, as the car warmed up to normal operating temp, so did the air coming out of my vents (as usual). I turned the temp control all the way to cold (even though the fan was never on to start with). This did absolutely nothing. Even turned on the AC, but still really hot air. Figured it was the thermostat stuck closed. Replaced it with a new one since they are pretty darn cheap. Didn't help a lick. So I'm guessing the it's the blend door? Anybody with experience with this situation? Would this potentially be enough to solve the problem, or would there be more I may need: http://www.amazon.com/Valeo-509573-A...dp/B001D23ZMY/ I can't have my car down for more than the weekend, so I'll need everything on hand when I decide to tare into things.

And of course I'm going to try this fix while I'm in there.
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Old May 11th, 2015, 05:45   #29
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WAK,

Before you assume its the solely foam related, make sure your temperature lever arm is properly rotating the doors. These fail from time to time and it causes the temps to behave like you're experiencing.

Watch this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6U9ZdkAjdhQ
Does yours behave similarly? If its spreading apart like the video shows, its likely not turning the doors like it should. If so, report back and I'll give you a little shortcut on fixing this...
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Old May 19th, 2015, 07:30   #30
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I concur, the arm that moves the blend door likes to fall off on mine. I removed the console to make it easier to snap back in (but it's still a real pain). Do not be fooled by the temperature knob: when the arm falls down, the knob feels exactly the same. The same amount drag etc.

IIRC you can acess the arm by removing a small kickpanel on the driver side footwell, and you can stick your hand up there to find it--it helps to feel around while rotating the temp knob. The Bentley is kinda helpful here also, in letting you know where it is and how to get to it.
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