Hewitt Industries Dual Boost Gauge

[GoremanX]

I tend to agree with those findings. I have the 80psi and 50psi versions of these gauges. In general, I found that the 80psi one is jittery and unreliable, especially in the lower range. Its response using my MightyVac was extremely disappointing.

The 50psi version is much smoother and more reliable across the entire range. I haven't over-pressured mine yet so mine still works right However it's also MUCH louder than the 80psi gauge. The buzzing drives me nuts. I need to add some kind of buffer inline to reduce that buzzing noise.

Ideally I'd prefer to find a 2-needle electric gauge somewhere, but I don't think those exist.

[[486]]

My gauges rattle pretty good if I don't run restrictors in the lines to them, so having sticky movement isn't as much a concern IMO, the pressure pluses of each cylinder should be continually knocking the gears loose in there.

The one that saw overpressure, looks like it's good and linear, I'd bet the pinion just skipped a couple rack teeth at the end of travel, should be able to gently pull it over the stop and click it over a couple teeth in the other direction, if you can't access the internals directly.

[GOFAST]

How did you conect the EMP line ?
Motor oil to ?

[Rub87]

Ive found pretty much the same in my 50 psi one. the rattle is bad. I spend a few hours trying find an optimal restrictor for my emp line. in the end around 0.6mm was the best I could get between slow response and rattle but still at some rpm it rattles pretty badly

also the green needle is pretty much behind at low pressures. luckily I have a electric EMP sensor connected to the ecu so I can log boost and EMP precisely.

Imo the only boost gauge that you can trust and doesn't rattle is a genuine VDO 0-3 bar.

[Fix_Until_Broke]

So I've been running an EMP gauge of some sort or another for over 10 years and have had the water in the tubes freeze which will cause the EMP to not read until the interior of the car gets warm enough to melt the water. Sometimes this causes the EMP gauge to rise to 10-20 psi due to the expansion of the water when it freezes.

Got in my car this morning, gauge read 40 psi until it warmed up (80 psi gauge). Ok, no big deal. Get in the car after work and glance at the gauge and it looks like the boost gauge is reading a few psi high. Nope Exhaust needle is wrapped around all the way to the peg and now reads ~20 psi high once it thawed out.

[Mongler98]

i never understood why anyone would use a gauge that needs to have the fuel, boost or anything come to the gauge. its a tell tale sign of cheep and bad design. Auber gauges are so far superior to anything on the market aside from a stand alone like a heltek dash unit or equivalent.

[Fix_Until_Broke]

An analog gauge is much easier to read compared to a series of seven segment displays which seem to be all that Auber offers.

Can you explain why a mechanical gauge is cheap and bad design?

[Macradiators.com]

Why dont you guys use the stepper motor gauges? A little bit more expensive but work nicely.

[Mongler98]

Auber is much more reliable and you can fit many gauge displays 2-3 of them in the space it takes for one average gauge of the round typical type. Auber multimeter gauges have a relay in them and can be programmed to do whatever you want in any application. No taking fluids or boost into the dash. All 12v systems with 5v sensors. All you can do with a standard cheap gauge is read temps or pressures or other various values like RPM and what not. With Auber you can have things like water/ meth, NOS, C3H8, defuel, and blow off valves, bleeders, timers, you name it all run off 1 or more gauge. For instance I have a water meth injection system I built that runs in 2 stages off 2 gauges, boost and EGT, I also ran a defuel on my MK3 tdi on the brake switch sensor and EGT relay. You can’t do jack with anything else. The displays are not hard to read what so ever, they also outlast any gauge I have ever had to date. Also the customer service is great with them too.
I feel that if you have to take the metered whatever to the gauge, it was built so cheap that they could not afford to put in a circuit to output 5v readout from a sensor.
I tried a few various brans for an air fuel gauge and they all crapped out. I talked with Auber about helping me make a multimeter read out work and we got it working great. They sent me some instructions on how to program it to output a value of 1-15 for the voltage and resistance given from a BOSCH O2 sensor. Cost me $40 and is working flawlessly unlike the cheap POS $150 to$200 gauges that innovate made and there supposed to be the best. NOT