The Audi Avant Twin Rotating Washer Jet & Solid Rear Wiper Mod

This is done on a mark IV Golf, there may be differences for wagons, and it will not apply to all other marks. If you complete the mod, and find yourself wasting washer fluid just to see it work over and over, please do not blame me.

This is partially a documentation of the mod, and partially my rambling discussion of the process. Hopefully it helps someone do the same, without all the searching.

I’m a big fan of having a rear wiper. When I drive (her) Jetta sedan, I find myself pushing the right stalk forward to clean off the rear window, only to be reminded that there isn’t one. As much as I like the rear wiper, the older standard wiper arm and blade did not exert the best pressure on the glass (often leaving smears unless I had a fairly new rubber blade insert). There is a Polo rear wiper available (similar to the aero/euro front wiper) that improved the contact pressure, but it used the same stationary single rear washer jet, which is prone to leave some portion of my window dry enough to streak and remain a bit ugly. The jet can be slightly adjusted with a needle, but I couldn’t significantly improve the result on mine.

When my Golf’s rear washer spray started to fail, I decided to investigate my options. Time for a solution!

As many of you know, the rear washer of the Mark IV Golf & Wagon (and others) often develops a leak. Not only is the leak annoying, rendering the rear washer useless, but can lead to rust and damage to the washer motor, rust within the rear hatch and trunk, or damage to the electronics causing a multitude of other problems.


RainX orange tells me there's a problem! This pic is from the sound damping on the inside of the rear hatch trim. See below for removal.

This leak can usually be traced to three areas:
1) The brass tube that runs through the center of the rear wiper motor, from the lower washer fluid line to the washer spray jet, develops a crack, allowing fluid to enter the washer motor, the interior of the rear hatch, or the trunk. Indicators include weak spray or lack of washer fluid spray at the rear jet, or when the rear washer jet rotates with the wiper arm (it should be stationary, and pointed straight up).
2) A cracked, disconnected, or broken “upper” washer fluid line (under or near the driver side “C” pillar).
3) A cracked, disconnected, or broken “lower” washer fluid line (inside the rear hatch, under the plastic trim).
4) Other problems include cracks in the front washer reservoir, bad washer pumps, a leak at the front of the fluid lines, and clogged washer spray jets.

There are several good threads on TDIClub and other places regarding various fixes:

1) Replacing the rear motor with a new one (p/n 1J6955711C).
2) Removing the old motor and fixing with the official repair kit (p/n 8L0998711).
3) Removing the old motor and fixing with various DIY methods.
4) Fixing or replacing broken or leaking areas of upper or lower washer fluid line.

SEE post #12: I've linked the most useful threads which are connected to the problems and fixes above, plus some threads on the Avant mod.

After reading lots of threads from many different sites:
1) Don’t assume the leak is from the brass tube. Some series of VAG motors have other internal leaks, and some have an exterior leak where the base to the fluid tube exits the motor. Be sure to check the washer fluid lines. If you have a leak at the rear sunroof lines, these run right next to the rear washer fluid lines, but there’s no discoloration.
2) The repair kit, at apx $118 is nearly the cost of a new rear motor ($140), and uses the same brass tube which will eventually rust or fail.
3) Some owners (including TDIClub’s jmur, Herm, etc.) repaired the leak at the brass tube using DIY methods, other than the repair kit, such as stainless steel tubing, new brass tubing, rubber tubing, etc.

I also found a few owners (UK and NA) that had converted from the VW single stationary rear washer jet and standard wiper to the Audi Avant (and Audi A3) rotating twin rear washer jet and solid body rear wiper. (This is not the “aero” wiper, or “euro” wiper that is currently used on many VAG products, which was discussed in this thread): http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=54315&highlight=aero+wiper

I couldn’t find any good how-to’s for the Avant mod, and most times owners just replaced the wiper arm/blade and were left with a washer cap that didn’t allow the fluid to spray. The common solution was to dremmel the Audi cap, and use the original single stationary VW washer jet, or ignore the problem and complete the mod for looks. This wouldn’t do. My goal was have the twin rotating jet fully functional, as well as the solid Avant wiper arm. So, I did a lot of searching, and looking for parts at junkyards, comparing p/n’s, etc. I found a few (2) posts where owners were able to get the twin jet working, so I had to try it. Further, given that the Audi rear wiper motor and VW rear wiper motor share similar part numbers, I figured I could do the mod using my VW washer motor after I fixed it.

Eventually, I found mothball611's video of his UK Mark IV Golf with the twin jet working perfectly. Check it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bi7s792nTb0

I could find only two posts that referenced a key question: Is a new Audi motor necessary to complete the mod? Our own peteman used the VW motor and fabbed up a system to use the twin rear jet, and BoosTDIt used the OE motor, too. Peteman explained his mod in a pm, and at the Vortex:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=911882&postcount=96
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1903045&postcount=43
http://tinyurl.com/lne6wvt

So, I decided to connect a series of DIY mods and fix-it projects:
1) Determine the source of my rear washer fluid leak and fix either the brass tube or fluid lines.
2) Attempt the Audi Avant rear wiper and rotating twin jet mod.
3) While both “C” pillars are off, lower my interior roof liner and upgrade my rear sunroof drains from the OE VW brown tubes to wider clear refrigerator tubing (and clean out all debris).
4) Remove the rear sunroof drain rubber exit duckbills, and trim for proper passage of water.
5) While the roof liner is lowered, replace the antennae base with a new one (due to degraded radio reception).

This primary focus of this thread is (1) & (2) above.


Here you can see a leak at the driver side C pillar. The lack of WWF discoloration tells me it's due to the rear sunroof drains, but with the C pillar removed (different thread), I can also inspect my WWF lines.


Here the C pillar is removed (different thread), and I can check the "upper" WWF lines for leaks, cracks, or disconnections.

To determine the problem with your rear wiper washer, follow these preliminary steps:
1) Ensure the washer pump is working: I’m guessing you’re still getting fluid to the front windshield.
2) Check for leaks at the fluid reservoir, and along the washer lines running to the rear: You’re washer fluid tank is full, and you don’t see leaks at the lines?
3) Check for where the washer lines run through the driver side “C” pillar at the rear: You don’t see any washer fluid stains? If so, you’ll need to access the area to find and repair the leak.
4) Ensure the washer jet at the rear isn’t plugged up with grit. If so, remove, soak, and carefully clean with a needle.
5) Next, it’s time to remove the rear hatch plastic trim which allows you to see the fluid lines and rear wiper motor. Disconnected fluid lines will be obvious, and forcing washer fluid through the system will likely reveal cracks.

Here's the tools I gathered (from memory). You don't need much.
A variety of flathead screwdrivers.
A few sizes phillips head screwdrivers.
Plastic trim removal tools.
Plastic ice scraper: superior to my trim removal tools.
10mm socket and ratchet.
13mm deep socket and ratchet.
Needlenose pliers.
Micro cloth towels to protect paint in places.

Remove interior plastic cover from the rear hatch. (Hamster has great how-to on this, my version is just to be thorough, in case you want a one stop thread). This might be the “hardest” part of the mod, but there are some other how-to’s with good pictures available. Remember that if done in cold weather the plastic may crack more easily.




1) Remove the two Phillips screws from the two interior grab handles that are part of the plastic hatch cover.



2) Use a plastic trim tool or similar method to carefully ply the plastic away from the hatch. It is held to the rear hatch by 10 metal clips, 2 each at the lower left and lower right, 1 on either side of the bottom cut out for the rear hatch lock, and 2 each along the top right and left. The lower 6 clips are held in place by a plastic housing that is directly connected to the larger trim piece. The upper 4 clips use a similar housing that is attached to a secondary piece of plastic. This secondary plastic is attached to the main trim by melted plastic “welds,” similar to the interior of a door card. If you try to remove the trim from the hatch too far away from these clips, you risk cracking the little plastic “welds,” (and leaving the clips and smaller plastic trim stuck in place).





3) The plastic cover is attached at the top to the upper (and separate) plastic trim, where one rectangular plastic piece connects to the other, and the whole edge slides into place. You can wrestle and pry them apart, twisting and turning, but the pictures will reveal (hopefully), that a small flat head screwdriver inserted between the two plastic connections allows them to pop apart more easily.













With the interior plastic cover removed from the hatch, I could see the orange RainX WWF stain on the sound damping material, indicating a leak close to the motor. The washer fluid lines running to the motor showed no leaks or cracks, and none were loose. As a part of my rear sunroof drain tube mod, I removed the C pillars to ensure these fluid lines were good, but lack of an orange stain on the C pillar cover was a sign it would be ok. With no leaks under the pillar, it was now definite the leak was at the rear motor. As soon as the motor is removed, you are left with a hole through the rear glass which can be plugged, so I wanted to gather the Audi parts for the mod first.

Parts:

(EDIT: Other members have added some p/n's which also work).

It took a while to confirm the right part numbers. The other popular rear wiper mod used an Audi Skoda wiper parts, or the VW “aero” wiper, so these p/n’s can be confusing. Next, since I don’t follow Audi as much as I used to, it took some time to determine exactly which models used the rotating twin jet, and of those, which fit the rear glass of the Golf. Some Skoda models also use similar wipers and jets. I’m still not exactly sure which marks of the Avant are always correct (the Audi model A3 also used it, as do some Audi SUV’s), so someone who is better with model years and marks of the Avant could chime in.

AFAIK, the following will work:
B6 A4 Avant
B7 A4 Avant
C6 A6 Avant
8P A3 Hatchback

Tracking down part numbers, I arrived at:

Wiper arm: 8E9 955 407 C
Wiper cap: 8E9 955 205 C
Spray jet with twin nozzle: 8E9 955 985
Wiper blade, should include rubber blade insert: 8E9 955 425 C
(if needed) Wiper motor: 8E9 955 711?

graeme86 adds: "You can use the Q5 aero arm and blade with the same Audi motor. Q5 rubber blade is 330mm long, the Q5 arm (from the centre of pivot point) to the tip of the blade when mounted (measured across glass, not along curve of arm) is 424mm."

And he provided these p/n's (thanks Graeme!):
8E9 955 711 E Motor
8K9 955 985 A Jet
8K9 955 205 Cap
8R0 955 407 1P9 Q5 Aero Arm
8R0 955 425 Q5 Aero Blade

I then used ebay to purchase:
(1) Audi Avant rear solid wiper arm, blade, and rubber insert, with “cap” ($18)
(1) Audi Avant / Skoda rear twin washer fluid jet ($13). The Skoda jet was the same p/n and $5 cheaper.

Updated part info for North American market:

SFHGolfTDI said:

I think in the US market these parts already previously referenced in the original posts and this thread provide the best fit for the Golf (we don't have the longest blade available that Graeme referenced):

7P6955427 Touareg Wiper Blade
8R09554071P9 Touareg/Q5 Wiper Arm
8K9955205 Cap

The A4/Avant wiper arm that I was wondering about (8K99554071P9) is in my opinion too long but can be made to work with shorter blades, but that gives you less wiping area and a "stubby" look. Not sure about fit on MK4 Jetta Wagons though. I don't know how the rear window sizes differ.

Click to expand...

Of course, the ebay parts coming from different sellers in Europe were slow, and arrived with ripped packaging and missing items. The only parts from the rear wiper that arrived were the cap and tension spring. While waiting for replacements, I found a complete set from a west coast Euro car recycler on ebay: 2006 Audi Avant rear wiper motor, arm/blade/wiper insert, cap, and jet for $50. They said the items were all in good shape (except the rubber insert was old), so I did a 'buy-it-now' and the parts appeared in 5 days. Sweet.

Parts assembled, here’s what I did:

From the exterior:



1) Pop up the wiper cap that sits over the washer jet. It will lift on the left side and rotate to the right. It usually comes up with only a little force. It can also be removed if you’d like: It is attached to the wiper arm by two metal arms with “C” grips. A little tug and wiggle, and it should come right off.









2) Under the wiper cap is the single washer jet and the 13mm nut holding the wiper arm to the motor drive shaft. I carefully removed the washer jet with needle nose pliers, but sometimes you can pull them off by hand. The jet is just pressure fitted right into the brass washer fluid tube.





3) I then used a deep socket to remove the 13mm nut.

4) Lift the wiper arm and blade up and away from the hatch glass, so that it is (not quite) 90* from the arm base, as if you were going to change the rubber insert. Wiggle/tug to remove the wiper assembly from the drive shaft. If it’s really stuck, you can use a cheap tool to help pry it up, such as in the link below, or spray the area with PB Blaster style lubricant. Mine showed the typical light rust at the drive shaft, and took a few minutes of pressure and wiggling, but eventually cam off. Some of you own a tool like this, which might help: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4676-Windshield-Wiper-Puller/dp/B000L7JQE8



Leaving me with this:

Opening the rear hatch again:

5) Disconnect the fluid line.

graeme86 said:

I would just add that to release this clip, you rotate the black C-clip piece 90 degrees around the grey end and the whole connection goes loose and pulls straight apart.

You can see the grey piece has a flat on each side - line the gap in the black C-clip up with the flat to release the tension on the pipe fitting.

To reinstall - rotate the C-clip back to its original position and push hose onto connector and you will hear a click when its fully home.

Click to expand...

6) Disconnect the electric connector.



7) Loosen the three 10mm combo nut/washers holding the washer motor on. Someone let me know if these have a name. They are a nut connected to a washer, but the nut spins freely?



8) With one hand to support the washer motor, remove the three 10mm nuts and remove the washer motor.





I removed my motor b/c part of my plan is to open it and replace the brass tube with a stainless steel tube. I also, I had an Avant motor from ebay (see above) that I could install while mine was getting fixed, so I didn’t have the “plug” the hole in my rear window while my VW motor underwent surgery.


9) I installed the Audi Avant rear washer motor using the same 10mm nuts. It’s a direct fit.



10) Reconnect washer fluid line. Direct fit.

graeme86 said:

To reinstall - rotate the C-clip back to its original position and push hose onto connector and you will hear a click when its fully home.

Click to expand...

11) Reconnect electronic connector. Direct fit.

Here’s some comparison shots:

Close the rear hatch. From the exterior:

12) Take the Audi Avant solid rear wiper arm/blade and press fit onto the motor drive shaft. I lined the wiper blade up along the bottom edge of the glass, since this was all just a test to see if it even worked. After some tests it can be reset later.



13) The same 13mm nut went back on to hold the wiper in place.



14) The Audi twin spray rotating washer jet press fits on to the top of the fluid shaft, above the 13mm nut. It sits between two little plastic posts in the wiper base, and the whole unit rotates as the wiper rotates. Where the original single jet pressure fits inside the brass tube, the Audi twin jet has a circular base with 2 channels, and when it pops onto the washer tube, the space between the channels allow it to rotate and direct the fluid to the jets.



15) The plastic Audi jet cap fits over the base of the wiper. It does not have a hinge that allows it to rotate up. It has interior tabs that slide over tabs on the base of the wiper arm, and they click into place. Removal requires you to squeeze the cap, (or pull slightly at the base with fingers), and it pops off and away from the tabs. I left it off so I could adjust the wiper and check the system for leaks and proper operation first.



Below you can see the tabs that hold the cap to the wiper arm base.



Time for a test!

I'm not yet able to take video, but the result was outstanding!

Success!



I have to say, in addition to the twin jet, it does look nice, too.



Time to remove everything and take more pictures. Next up is repairing my VW motor with the leaking brass fluid tube, replacing with stainless steel, and looking more closely at fitting the Audi twin jet to the existing VW motor.

More Pics:





Other helpful part numbers:
Washer fluid corrugated tubing 1J0955751D
Washer fluid sensor level 7M0919376
Washer fluid pump 1K6955651

Threads and references:

Ok, so thanks to all the TDIClub and internet help. Also, if you need to do different work to fix your issue, here's some links:

TDIClub:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=358487
(Herm TDI’s great how-to DIY fix, using your own brass tube).

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=30957&highlight=golf+rear+wiper
(Westy's 2002 general discussion of the problem).

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=127287&highlight=rear+washer+sprayer+golf
(Hamster's great 2006 thread. peteman mentions the Avant mod, jmur uses a SS tube).

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=127287
(peteman used OE motor and got it to work with Avant twin jet).

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/Westy1/Screen%20Captures/Rear%20Wiper_WEB.jpg
(ETKA from Westy).

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=253025
(MOGolf’s great How-to and Frugality uses a new motor & fixes his broken fluid line).

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/How_to_Repair_the_Rotating_Rear_Washer_Nozzle.pdf
(MOGolf’s great PDF of how to use the VW repair kit).

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=911548&postcount=88
(BoosTDI has pics of the Avant mod).

Other:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bi7s792nTb0
(mothball's youtube video of the Avant mod in action)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?759342
(This is the not very good vortex how-to from the mark iv diy. peteman mentions he used the original motor and pressed the jet on).

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4151041-q7-rear-wiper
(With ETKA, and pics, but not much else).

[URL]http://audisrs.com/about24417.html&highlight=wiper[/URL]
(great Audi motor washer repair with VW kit, greased motor, fixed leak at line, too).

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/23041-rear-window-washer-jet-leaking-somewhere!!!/
(Crack at lower fluid line with some good pics and repair).

http://www.r32oc.com/topic/4532-aero-aka-polo-rear-wiper-mod/
(Aero wiper mod pics followed by avant mod pics. Uses old VW jet).

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/43790-MkIV-Golf-GTI-A4-Avant-rear-wiper-mod
(Shows the Avant mod but no how-to. Shows the aero rear wiper on GTI).

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/333689-Rear-washer-nozzle-clean-and-adjust-DIY
(Cleans the washer jet with needle).

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/9953-Rear-Wash-Wipe---Grease-those-nipples!/
(Fixes cracked brass fluid pipe with own, has a how-to, but no pics).


Here's a UK mark IV GTI with rear "aero" wiper, just for reference:

This pic is from Hillside Imports, who used to sell both Skoda and VW mixtures of these aero / euro wipers. They use the VW style cap and single stationary washer jet.

Just what I needed! Thanks, I will put this together over the summer.

FL/CO: the pics above are linked, so just click for more. I didn't post them all, for obvious reasons.

Coolio, thanks again

It's sort of funny that you posted this today. My wiper motor for this mod came in yesterday. It was my second one, actually. The first arrived with a broken bracket. The one I just got has fractured arms, but I will probably just deal with it.

Ebay seller has been good, I haven't yet reached him re: the second one.

Thanks for posting this up. I scoped out an A3 Avant TDI in the parking garage tonight. All I need to do is order the arm. I was going to go with the Q5 arm - I'll have to cross reference with the numbers you posted.

Nice work.

Cool! Post pics for us!
Some of the Audi SUVs have solid rear wiper arms, but in the UK thread they say that the top (or sweep) of the wiper is too high. I'm not sure if that was due to a GTI upper fairing (wing) above the rear window, or that the wiper arm was just too long.

I bought my original solid wiper arm from ebay. When it finally arrived (2nd attempt), it compared very well with the OE Audi unit. It was listed as aftermarket from Eastern Europe, but it must be a Skoda or Audi item, as it's exactly the same. I'd say the fit and finish are 100% as good.

xbiker- how close are you to the Long Trail brewpub? Love LT!

...and a rotating sprayer on the VW B4 Passat wagon was a sign that it wasn't working as intended. Quite often the sprayer would become siezed to the oscillating armature and would sweep with the arm.
It was easier 15 years ago to let entropy mod our cars for us.

Lug- same for my Golf. I had a few rotations of the old single jet before I realized it. If it hadn't been for that, I likely wouldn't have realized a portion of the fluid was going into the hatch. Luckily my electronics were fine (I stopped using the rear washer right away), but some owners find themselves stuck with central locking problems.

Wow great write up! Thanks!

Great thread!

If you also want an aero rear wiper and rotating jet you can use the Q5 aero arm and blade with the same Audi motor.

8E9 955 711 E Motor
8K9 955 985 A Jet
8K9 955 205 Cap
8R0 955 407 1P9 Q5 Aero Arm
8R0 955 425 Q5 Aero Blade

Wankel7 said:

Wow great write up! Thanks!

Click to expand...

Thanks Wankel! Looking forward to your write up for the sport cluster!
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4492431&postcount=17

I was considering it, but wasn't sure about the wiring, and additional cost of the OTC, stalk, etc. Plus, the full FIS has some extras...

graeme86 said:

Great thread!
If you also want an aero rear wiper and rotating jet you can use the Q5 aero arm and blade with the same Audi motor.
8E9 955 711 E Motor
8K9 955 985 A Jet
8K9 955 205 Cap
8R0 955 407 1P9 Q5 Aero Arm
8R0 955 425 Q5 Aero Blade

Click to expand...

Thanks Graeme! Is it ok if I post your p/n's above? Also, do you know the length of the Q5 wiper arm?

Graeme, if you see this, I have to tell you that your R32 page is one of my all time favorites. I have it bookmarked, and visit about every 2 weeks since I found it years ago, when doing a search for the Funk switch. I love the electrickery section, especially.

Let me know if you are willing to answer some Q's: For many yeras now I've been looking at using the cupholder delete (above the late 2003 Mark IV double din radio) as a housing for some small VW switches. I had originally wanted the two large OE VW switches below the steering wheel, but I think the plastic housing in NLA. I'm not good with wiring, so I haven't done anything but research.

Post away!

Q5 rubber blade is 330mm long

The Q5 arm (from the centre of pivot point) to the tip of the blade when mounted (measured across glass, not along curve of arm) is 424mm

The mini VW switches are too wide to mount in the cupholder delete plate without overlapping the edge slightly (about 2mm either side).

Thx! You are way ahead of me- the delete plastic is about 26mm (from my notes), so the VW mini switches would leave the delete in pieces? I'll send pm, if you don't mind.

My wagon desperately needs this. Impossible to keep the rear glass clean, especially since my rear jet is missing/broken off.

My question: Do the rear pumps absolutley have to be changed for the Audi unit? Will the dual jet system not bolt up to the existing VW pump?

Thanks,

Travis

The audi jet is like a ball and socket arrangement so it can rotate properly with the blade.

The vw spindle does NOT rotate at all - the jet is fixed and pokes down into the hole.

The audi jet can be ground down a bit to sit on the end of the vw spindle and then silicon a bit of tube so it can move around a bit but it is FAR from satisfactory.

You are trying to do two different things at the same time - keep the vw spindle end fixed and the audi jet end rotating with the arm.

If you could just buy the $2 spindle part separately that would be awesome as everything else is essentially the same...but if you look at the pics of the motors they have made that impossible to do cheaply by changing the base piece shape - may as well get the whole Audi part that works properly

Wholy chit, I need to grab a beer and sit down and read all this. Even the thread title is a handfull to comprehend!

loco_unoTDI said:

My wagon desperately needs this. Impossible to keep the rear glass clean, especially since my rear jet is missing/broken off. My question: Do the rear pumps absolutley have to be changed for the Audi unit? Will the dual jet system not bolt up to the existing VW pump? Thanks, Travis

Click to expand...

Hi Travis, graeme86 already answered most of your question. Previously, I read that 2 TDI owners had used the OE motor, so I figured I could, too. I ended up with an Audi motor by chance, and I still intend to fix the fluid tube in my VW motor, and figure out how to best make it work.

Graeme's explanation is dead on to what I've looked at since doing this. I took a lot more pix, so I'll upload those and let you see how it all works, and what might have to be modified to use a twin jet with the OE VW motor.

Lastly, you just need to make sure that the current brass fluid tube in the motor isn't broken or leaking, otherwise it can cause a minor havoc with the electronics.

duwem said:

Wholy chit, I need to grab a beer and sit down and read all this. Even the thread title is a handfull to comprehend!

Click to expand...

Sorry 'bout that duwem, I was trying to solve all the previous issues I had run into when searching for how-to's involving different tail end problems, so I wanted to create a how-to that even I could follow, and use it a launching point for others.


Above: The OE VW motor pivot shaft with exposed brass fluid tube. The single jet fits into the fluid tube.


Above: The Audi Avant motor pivot shaft with twin jet removed. No fluid tube visible. The twin jet fits around the shaft. Not sure if there is even a tube in there?


Above: VW left, Audi right. Here you can compare the ends of the pivot shaft where the WWF comes out, and see how using the Audi jet isn't an exact fit onto the VW end (see below).


Above: Audi jet left, VW jet right. I took the Audi jet and tried to fit it onto the VW pivot shaft. The inner plastic circle is wide enough that it hits the metal, and won't snap down. The plastic could be dremmeled out a little, but it's prolly better to modify at the point of the pivot shaft where it would snap on to, so that it rotates as designed, and is a snug fit. If it sits too high on the VW pivot shaft, the twin jets and holes in the cap won't line up (of course, these could be widened, also).