First Trouble after EXACTLY 5 MO / ~20K MI

I commute 80 miles each way to work and back. She's run like a dream since day 1, albeit with a bit of crankiness when it gets below 30*. So this morning, outside temp was around 25-28* and 40 miles into my trip, flashing glow plug indicator and limp mode. Oh sh*t, oh sh*t.. But I noticed my coolant temp was hovering around 200, boost was hovering around 4 PSI, engine was smooth and quiet as ever at around 2100 RPM.
I put the clutch in, take it outta gear and shut the car off coasting for a second (no one around in front or behind for at least half a mile) and start it back up, this time with the actual CEL on and glowplug light still blinking (sh*t I broke it worse?) I then scanned the codes with Torque (love this app) and got a P0236 and P0237. I had another few miles till the next exit so I cleared the codes and voila, power was back! Until I pressed the pedal down a bit more..

I finally manage to limp to the nearest exit a couple miles away rolling about 60-65 mph in a 70 zone, let the EGT' settle to around 400* and shut her off for a few minutes. Started up, same codes, but just the glowplug light blinking. I know this usually means stop car immediately, but fluids were all at normal levels, temperatures were in range, car was not making bad sounds, and I could limp the remaining 35 or so miles to work at 65-70 no problem. Also, boost gauge was showing VACUUM, as well as slight amount of boost. Seems like low voltage at one of the sensors?

I called Paramedick on the drive there and I will be stopping by after work today. It should take 30-45 minutes to get there from work.
So, I live in Louisville KY and I bought the car from Bachman VW there. I am working in Lexington KY (80 miles away) and there is a Don Jacobs VW here. So, should I call my dealership and see if my warranty will cover it being towed to Don Jacobs and worked on? Or should I drive to Versailles after work? I have no issues with Paramedick at all, he's helped me with my last Jetta TDi a few times, but wondered if it might be something I should let the warranty pay for?

I know it isn't VCDS (can't do that while driving), but the codes are
P0236: Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ Range/Performance
P0237: Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ Low Input

I am wondering if the voltage going to or from the sensor is just going low for some reason. Possibly loose connection, water or salt in there, or a possible vacuum leak? I will get it scanned with VCDS this evening.

Update, I ended up calling VW roadside assistance and it's getting towed to Don Jacobs in Lexington here within 45 min to an hour. Hopefully I don't get stuck in a 2.slow!

Stupid dealership doesn't have loaners, but they have a Hertz.. ***. Trying to figure out ride arrangements to the dealership after work.

Sorry to hear that your haveing issues

I had a boost control solenoid fail once on a turbo gasser and had dramatically reduced power.

Let us know how it goes.

Good luck!

japedo said:

Sorry to hear that your haveing issues
I had a boost control solenoid fail once on a turbo gasser and had dramatically reduced power.
Let us know how it goes.
Good luck!

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Yeah, the diverter valve on my Passat 1.8T went out and made the awful goose honking sound. Limp mode as well. I ordered the Audi TT diverter valve which was actually rated for the PSI my motor made, and voila, no issues since. It was hilarious how the old one was rated for only 8-12 PSI when the motor could hold 12 PSI sustained and peak at around 15-16 no problem.

Sometime I wonder about VW.

But I talked to a service writer and gave him the codes / symptoms etc. He said it sounds fairly minor and what I guessed might not be far off. Hopefully they don't break anything more while they are in there. Luckily, Paramedick recommended the guy I spoke to, so I hope I'm in good hands.

Boosting my own thread for other people's info and because I am not sure about their diagnosis:

Called the dealership (80 miles away, closes in an hour 45 min) because I wanted to see if I should get ready to go pick it up. So I held for ever, then they said "I spoke with VW Tech Line and we want to do the update for the intercooler icing problem". So I said "when we talked last night, you were pretty dang sure it was just a bad, dirty, or disconnected map sensor and I asked about the icing problem, you guys said it wasn't that?" (They told me last night that they just did one that evening, and mine didn't fit the symptoms). The tech said that with the weather (lost of precip and temp changes) that's what VW wants to do under warranty and it should be done by Tuesday. So that means I'm paying for a rental out of pocket, plus gas on the rental, plus a $50 deposit until I return the car. Then VWoA will reimburse me $35 a day once I get the invoice from the rental minus gas and deposit (which I will get back)

Seems like another case of VW / dealership with heads up their asses or what?

Oh, and last night I don't think they even scanned codes, at least through the ODB port because the service manager and tech had no clue that I had my bluetooth code reader installed. So I don't even know if they looked at it last night. It wasn't until I explained that the boost gauge was showing Vacuum that they kinda go "hmmm, that might point to the map sensor."

I miss driving my car This Cruz LT feels like a cheap toy. The seats are hard and stiff, the layout seems un natural, every bump on the road is felt in the ass, the transmissions holds the current gear too long, then jumps 2-3 after you demand more pedal, and the engine seems like if I weighed 100 pounds more would over heat.

Missin my Jetta. Wish me luck!

Well you get your money back for the rental.
And all the dealers S***K a$$. they give you line of bs just to get rid of you ..
Good thing is you get the updated intercooler installed, which hopefully will solve the problem. I just Hope 2014 had it fixed.
Wonder if the driving style has anything to do with that issue ? like hwy vs city driving , the distance driven ? if you baby the car ?

good luck and keep us updated

I am bout 80-90% highway. Drive the piss out of it in the mornings, because I usually can't get out of bed early enough haha. In the evenings, I usually float around 70-78 depending on traffic.

I also imagined that the 2013's would have it fixed. Yesterday was 5 months to the day that I bought the car, so it's not old or anything.

Sounds like everything being taken care of under warranty. I am curious about the deposit of $50 for the rental. What is that for?

RDC98tdi said:

I am bout 80-90% highway. Drive the piss out of it in the mornings, because I usually can't get out of bed early enough haha. In the evenings, I usually float around 70-78 depending on traffic.

I also imagined that the 2013's would have it fixed. Yesterday was 5 months to the day that I bought the car, so it's not old or anything.

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sounds like you stretching its legs enough to get IC hot lol.. that low pressure EGR is screwing things up a lot.
i wonder if guys in europe run in to the same issues. or their system is different ?

DogParkGuy said:

Sounds like everything being taken care of under warranty. I am curious about the deposit of $50 for the rental. What is that for?

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Not sure, but I guess the $50 deposit was in case I get the car dirty or something, who knows. But they said they will refund it. Who knows. And yeah, the mileage on the cruze sucks haha. I used a third of a tank last night doing my normal 80 mile trip, where in the Jetta that was just about 1/8th. Granted, the tank is probably a few gallons smaller, but still.

I'm surprised no one has said anything about how I should have stuck to a guru lol. I am thinking I would pay the $80-90 for a new MAP sensor to have someone local install it, but on the other hand, if it IS the intercooler, then I am glad I left it at the dealer.

So I got the car back last night with a brand new intercooler. Apparently this one draws more air in from the top of the intercooler where less moisture supposedly is. Car runs just fine now, sans making it 20 miles from the dealership and my coolant / temp warning light screaming at me. Pulled over, called dealership, they're all gone.

Called Paramedick in Versailles who was only about 20 minutes from where I was and drove to his place. Got there and got topped off with some G12 for free. Bruce and his son are very helpful and gave me some peace of mind.

So far, the car seems the same power wise, but with the window cracked, I think the turbo sounds a bit louder (that's fine with me!) I noticed after driving a base model Chevy Cruze LT that this car rides like luxury comparatively. Quieter, smoother, more power etc.

Glad you got your car back, and that it's working better!

Why would it have required coolant? Do they need to unhook coolant lines to change the intercooler?

japedo said:

Glad you got your car back, and that it's working better!
Why would it have required coolant? Do they need to unhook coolant lines to change the intercooler?

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Not sure why the coolant was low! Bruce (paramedick) said that perhaps when they were changing the intercooler, some time during the process air might have got into the lines making the sensor see the coolant at a higher level. Once I got onto the highway and coolant started circulating, this air bubble could have burped up and the level dropped back down. I am not sure why the level was low in the first place, but that part makes sense.

I am really hoping this holds out because I am getting tuned today!