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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > TDI Power Enhancements

TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old November 11th, 2013, 06:19   #1
bassman5066
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Default My 1991 Golf Build Thread

OK, so lets start with a little background information on this car. It's not my daily, so I have given it the title "The Weekender". A friend of mine was the previous owner, and he just had a son, wedding, and honeymoon, so let's just say he needed the cash.

He did most of the grunt work to get the 1Z TDI swap up and running. Donor car was a 1996 Passat. He also deleted power steering and A/C :facepalm: when installing the motor. Timing belt was replaced, and had a fresh SBC stage 2 endurance clutch, and had BFI stage .5 motor mounts with a G60 trans mount. It had the stock Garrett turbo with a stage 3 Malone tune, PP764 nozzles, EGR delete, and Saab 900 FMIC.

Upon taking ownership, I replaced the MK2 fuel tank with a MK3 and got the proper sending unit in there to use the MK3 cluster. I also ran all new lines from the tank to the bay and installed an inline lift pump. I also replaced all the vacuum and boost lines, glow plug harness, and PCV tube. There were a few other odds and ends to be cleaned up to make this swap look nice. I also installed oil pressure, temp, voltage, boost, and EGT gauges. Because who doesn't love gauges?

Now for the bad. Within a week of ownership, the #3 injector bore started leaking compression, and I quickly found out there was a crack in the head causing this leak. I managed to get it to seal by torching the copper injector washer before torquing it down to get a little extra crush on it. This lasted me 6+ months of weekend driving, as well as a trip to NH and ME for TDIFest 2013. During that time, I also had a nice rear main seal leak that has been driving me crazy, and I also noticed oil pressure starting to wane. To the point that I switched to Rotella T3 conventional to keep the pressure in a comfortable range for my own peace of mind.

So, now that you understand "the bad", that brings me to my build. I had to replace/repair the head regardless, and I had to pull the trans (rear main seal) regardless. So, "while I'm there" has spiraled into a huge winter long build of my motor, a larger turbo, AWIC, and plenty of other goodies.

At TDIFest 2013



__________________________________________________ ____________________________________

Now, for my goals for this build:

Motor: The idea is, I want to build it to take whatever I can throw at it. Its a 1Z from a 96 Passat.

PD150(ARL) Pistons (19.0:1)
Rosten Rods
Eurospec block girdle (not sure on this one yet, would like some input)
New head with local machine shop P&P.
Stage 3 colt cam
PD Oil cooler
PD150 intake manifold
11mm IP
Still undecided on injectors (currently have PP764s, will probably start with them set for the highest pop setting)
Air/Water IC (from siliconeintakes.com)
Garrett GT2259 turbo (internal wastegate)
3" straight pipe exhaust (

I think thats it for now (I'm sure I'm forgetting something)

Transmission:
LSD and the "add a 6th gear" kit- will be coming later after the car is on the road..
02J shift tower and box
Will probably get dieselgeek short shifter eventually

Vehicle:
Restore A/C and power steering
Restore cruise control
Swap front end to quad round
Battery and washer fluid in trunk
Shave bay complete with paint
Complete custom harness and wire tuck in bay
5 lug conversion from MK3 VR6 front and rear brakes
SS brake lines
Get rid of my junk Raceland Coilovers
Install upper strut bar
Upgrade sway bar - VR6
Install BFI rear beam brace
Rear beam poly inserts

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________


Turbo, manifold, and my 90 degree T3 adapter.

Turbo is Garrett GT2259, and is an OEM variant from a HINO 5.0L heavy equipment engine. - $740 shipped

Manifold was a generic 8V VW manifold from eBay - $75 shipped

T3 adapter was designed by me and manufactured by eMachineShop.com - $50

These pics also show the porting required to get a nice smooth transition from the manifold through my adapter into the turbo.





Old vs New turbo







T3 vs OEM manifold port size

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Old November 11th, 2013, 06:20   #2
bassman5066
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__________________________________________________ ___________________________________


11/10/13

Pulled the motor:















How she will sit for the winter




Lots of odds and ends removed
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Old November 11th, 2013, 06:20   #3
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I was really happy to find out that despite my rear main seal leak, the clutch was dry. Not sure if I'm going to reuse. It only has 15k on it at most.


Look at that cute little turbo.





Lots more to come. I will keep the thread updated. Any input is appreciated.
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Old November 11th, 2013, 07:47   #4
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Why go waste-gate turbo if you are using a pd150? How will you control it?
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Old November 11th, 2013, 07:57   #5
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Originally Posted by oldpoopie View Post
Why go waste-gate turbo if you are using a pd150? How will you control it?
He is using PD pistons in a 1Z
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Old November 11th, 2013, 07:58   #6
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Originally Posted by oldpoopie View Post
Why go waste-gate turbo if you are using a pd150? How will you control it?
The only thing that is PD150:

PD150(ARL) Pistons (19.0:1)
PD Oil cooler
PD150 intake manifold

Everything else is 1Z/AHU.
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Old November 11th, 2013, 08:00   #7
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Originally Posted by oldpoopie View Post
Why go waste-gate turbo if you are using a pd150? How will you control it?
PD150 pistons and manifold. Block, head, fuel system, and computer is 1Z so boost will be controlled by the N75 and a mechanical boost controller.

Why go waste gated? Why not is what I have to say to that. Short answer is top end flow.

Edit: Thanks to Chris (GTiTDI) for inspiring me to think outside the vanes

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Old November 11th, 2013, 08:02   #8
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why go waste gated? Why not is what i have to say to that. Short answer is top end flow.

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:d
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Old November 11th, 2013, 08:11   #9
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Blaasdhuujdjjhhhhhhhh............

Thats what my brain did up there..... I get it now.... Boy i need to read more carefully.


Still though, why not upgrade to vnt control like frankencar did with his BV43
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Old November 11th, 2013, 08:18   #10
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why not upgrade to vnt control?
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Old November 11th, 2013, 08:30   #11
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Lol yes, the sheeple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpoopie View Post
Blaasdhuujdjjhhhhhhhh............

Thats what my brain did up there..... I get it now.... Boy i need to read more carefully.


Still though, why not upgrade to vnt control like frankencar did with his BV43
Theres a reason I went with this HINO OEM variant of the GT2259. Garrett's off the shelf aftermarket version of the 2259 has a .56 A/R turbine and the HINO has a .47 so I'm hoping to retain low end response that way rather than switching to VNT.

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Old November 11th, 2013, 09:08   #12
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Old November 11th, 2013, 10:38   #13
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Then why not ask him why he's not adding a DPF or Urea injection. VNT helps with some things but there's something to be said about the reliability and simplicity of a WG.
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Old November 11th, 2013, 11:00   #14
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Then why not ask him why he's not adding a DPF or Urea injection. VNT helps with some things but there's something to be said about the reliability and simplicity of a WG.
exactly, VNT is more of an emissions device to limit smoke output IMO, and is by no means the best for high performance flow...
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Old November 11th, 2013, 11:05   #15
bassman5066
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Then why not ask him why he's not adding a DPF or Urea injection. VNT helps with some things but there's something to be said about the reliability and simplicity of a WG.
Yea. My aim is to have it spool almost as fast as a 2260V but be able to flow more exhaust on the top end of the RPM section.

Edit: Chris I just saw your comment. I'm sure you know I don't care about smoke with this build.

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