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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old May 5th, 2013, 15:20   #1
Kgbriptyde
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Redwood City, Ca
Default Engine bearing replacement write up with photos. ALH

Engine bearings and easily made special tools for removing the upper main bearings.

Parts.
Main bearings and bolts.
Rod bearings and bolts.
Thrust washers.
Oil pump pick up and o ring. Or clean the existing one. Don't re use the o ring.
Grey RTV sealant.
5 quarts of oil. Might want to use some added zinc.
This is a good time to change the oil pump if needed.

Lift the vehicle. Drain the oil. Remove the dip stick. Remove the one bolt on the A/C compressor and pry it over an inch. Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil pump and baffle.

Rod bearings.
Set to TDC to access the #2 and #3 bearings. Turn the cam bolt with an 18mm wrench. Work on one bearing at a time. Remove the two 10mm bolts and cap. Pay attention to how it was installed, the groove sides go together for re installation. Use your thumbs to push up the rod and piston. Remove the upper bearing. Oil the new upper bearing, push it into the rod with your thumbs, pull the rod down on the crank, install the new bearing in the cap and install. Make sure the groove sides are together. Turn the crank to access the #1 and #4 bearings. Finish up. The bearings in the Bentley manual show an oil hole in the top bearings but that is incorrect, there is no oil hole. All the rod bearings are the same unlike the main bearings. The upper main bearings have the oil channel. The lower ones don't except for the #3 bearing which has the oil channel on the top and bottom with thrust washers on both sides. The thrust washers just slide in and out easily.

Main bearings.
Loosen all 10 of the bolts. Get a dremal with a carbide bit to router out a little bit of the housing to be able to get a 17mm socket over the #1 bolts. The metal is soft. This only takes a few seconds. Shove some paper rags up in the engine to keep out the debris. You only have to put the rags in the #1 bearing area. Clean good when finished. All the other bolts are easy to access.
Do only one bearing at a time. Remove the two bolts and cap. Use a plastic pointed chisel and hammer to get the upper bearing started. You can push them out about a 1/2 this way.
Cut the top of a thick tupperware container (one I used 1.8mm thick) the width of the bearings. Make 2,3,4 and 5 long pieces. Hold them with vise grips while pushing out the bearings. Also use them and a pick for cleaning out any debris.
Make a screw driver with the tip heated and bent over to form a hook. I used this on one the bearings that I could only get out half way. I hooked the oil hole and pulled it out.
Other ways to remove the upper bearings is using a pry bar on the crank to push it to one or another side in order to help get a bearing in or out. I used a motorcycle tire iron as a pry bar
Turning the crank can also help to free a stuck upper bearing.
Use a small wood handle wire brush. I used the wood end and hit it with a hammer to install the new upper bearings.
The cap and lower bearing install just like the rods.
Put the oil pan bolts in a vise and clean them with a wire brush before installation.
Keep everything clean and oiled when installing.
Careful not to damage the crank or new bearings.




Reason for changing the bearings.
I had low oil pressure. I changed the oil pump, then the oil filter housing (it has a pressure switch in it), next are the bearings. The rod bearings didn't look to bad but the main bearings were crushed, metal chunks. The #1 wasn't too bad but got progressively worse. The reason I think they went bad was the owner before me broke the oil pan and probably drove without oil for a while. Plus the car has 200K miles. It took me all day to do this job. Next time I could probably knock it out in a half day.

If the head blew its a good idea to change the oil cooler and oil cooling sprayers in the block. I didn't and am just going to keep an eye on the oil pressure and temp with an aftermarket gauge.

Before start up disconnect the solenoid wire on the injection pump. Turn the car over for a bit to build oil pressure. Then connect the wire and start the car. Let it idle at 2K for 20 minutes to set the cam followers. Use strait 30w oil with a zinc additive. Break in for 500 miles then change the oil and use the proper oil.

Low oil pressure. Change the oil pump and bearings. Then the oil filter bracket (has a pressure switch. This is what the dealer says. What I would do next time if I had low oil pressure I'd check the number 5 main bearing first. May not need an oil pump, filter bracket and wont blow the head, may just need bearings.

Good oil pressure read. http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1097.htm













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Old May 5th, 2013, 15:23   #2
Kgbriptyde
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Redwood City, Ca
Default

If the head blew its a good idea to change the oil cooler and oil cooling sprayers in the block. I didn't and am just going to keep an eye on the oil pressure and temp with an aftermarket gauge.

Before start up disconnect the solenoid wire on the injection pump. Turn the car over for a bit to build oil pressure. Then connect the wire and start the car. Let it idle at 2K for 20 minutes to set the cam followers. Use strait 30w oil with a zinc additive. Break in for 500 miles then change the oil and use the proper oil.

Low oil pressure. Change the oil pump and bearings. Then the oil filter bracket (has a pressure switch. This is what the dealer says. What I would do next time if I had low oil pressure I'd check the number 5 main bearing first. May not need an oil pump, filter bracket and wont blow the head, may just need bearings.

The plastic was 1.8mm thick

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