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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:12   #1
JFettig
 
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Default Injector calibration on a pop tester

First off, this thread is NOT for bashing, not for advertising, not for flaming, its for education!

Secondly, I sold all my pop testing equipment, I'm not pop testing stuff for you guys!

This is not a guide for n00bs, seatman: feel free to watch.

If you want to talk about how x process is better than y process in an ignorant manner, go elsewhere.

Images are unedited, I'm doing this quick because I just want to put this out there without putting much time into it, feel free to add constructive information

This thread is mostly about how to do 2 stage injectors.

First step - lap nozzle backs. Use a piece of flat granite and 400 grit sand paper
before:

during:

after:


The purpose of this is to ensure the needle is exactly flush with the back of the nozzle. this is primarily for setting the 2nd stage. You might have to lap these again if it leaks down fast above the first stage pressure.

It is extremely important that you don't pull the needle out, mess with it, or anything after lapping, look at all the grit in there!

Next, give them a bath in simple green/water in a HF ultrasonic cleaner:


The grit will come out, needle will fall out when you pick them up - usually, be careful. Take one out at a time, do not mix them up!!!
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:12   #2
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With the needle still out(keep track!) give them a big juicy spray of brake cleaner


Next: with your harbor freight vice with soft jaws, clamp onto an injector


crack nozzle nut loose and start turning it off


hold up a sec and clean off the soot


remove nozzle, needle, and nut


put your finger just above the hat and give them a high pressure squirt of brake cleaner to clean off any soot
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:12   #3
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Race 520


Clean your nuts


Install nuts, turn it down until you feel it contact, add 30 degrees rotation(lots of other specs are out there, this is what I use)

Connect to pop tester


With the gauge shut off - knob turned all the way in, chatter test, crank the crap out of it. This does a few things - it seats all the components, and it tests to make sure it pops correctly - you'll hear it. Open air spray test afterwords, I didn't take a pic of that


Loosen knob, check pilot pressure. its a procedure to get it cranked up exactly to the pop and let it fly. I turn the shut-off knob to do it accurately


see video
http://vimeo.com/64677326
This shows it popping at 190bar, you can also see leakdown, this is very good, Bosio R520 nozzles are some of the better ones I've seen for leakdown other than Bosch.

This one is low. I set the pilots on R520 between 230-240bar
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:12   #4
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Pull it apart, lay components out on a clean surface


you can see the main pressure shim


dump out the guts, keep track!




Special tool: paperclip with special bends


remove pilot shim:


measure pilot shim:


Generally, every .001" is approx 5 bar, I needed to go from 210bar to 240bar.

Box of shims, lots to choose from:


re-assemble, test see video
http://vimeo.com/64677328
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:13   #5
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here is a #3 injector, be careful not to damage the needle lift sensor!


On to the main stage, this is easy.

Standard hat:


lock-out hat:


Its extremely important the lock-out is made to exacting dimensions, I'm talking tenths.

Remember when I said it might need to be lapped again?
http://vimeo.com/64677330

Main pressures are almost always high, look at how high this one goes from a simple nozzle swap and pilot pressure increase(yes, pilot pressure adds onto the main)
http://vimeo.com/64677329
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:16   #6
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Changing the flow on a nozzle is easy, but you must have digital equipment as far as I know, popping into a beaker probably won't work.

To reduce flow, remove material from the back of the nozzle, not the needle, leave the needle sit a few tenths up, to increase flow, remove from the back of the needle. Its impossible to pop test the 2nd stage once you've done this.
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:18   #7
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I NEVER plan on doing this - or obtaining the equipment to.

But thanks for the writeup.

Certainly helps a fella understand whats involved.
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:39   #8
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Great write up!
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:41   #9
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Demystifying!
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:45   #10
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I think this thread deserves a "sticky"

Wow!
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:56   #11
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Hand lapping on the granite seems a little risky to me... If you are removing any material, wouldn't you run the risk of inducing an angle to it, as it would be difficult to hand hold it at exactly 90-degrees...

Do the shops that offer balancing/pop testing do this by hand or use machines/jigs to do it?

Just wondering, not trying to question the methods or anything...
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Old April 24th, 2013, 08:09   #12
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Not sure Chris, hand lapping takes off .001" at most, most have only needed tenths lapped.
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Old April 24th, 2013, 08:20   #13
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Ya, I guess with 400 you can't take too much off... I would still be concerned with getting pieces out of square with each other though... I'm curious what shops that offer this service do? Do they have a jig or machine to do it, or are they doing it by hand too???
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Old April 24th, 2013, 08:36   #14
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It is tough to get something perfectly flat by hand. If you use straight strokes, you'll take more from the leading edge. Small circular motions tends to work the outer edges more than the center. If I get one that is stubborn and leaks, first step is re-clean, then I tighten more (reasonably so), then as a last measure swap into another body. If none of those work, it's time to send it back for another. Usually it's a clean issue and solved by one of the first three methods. Without proper milling equipment, trying to flatten by hand is a risky crap shoot and very technique dependent. They should already be flat well beyond hand methods from the factory. JMHO...
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Old April 24th, 2013, 08:52   #15
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One shop I talked to uses the same technique I use.

For the first set I jigged them up on a surface grinder - way too much work!
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