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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old January 23rd, 2013, 16:53   #1
zimmbob
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Monticello MN
Default 2006 Jetta TDI Blower Motor and resistor fix

So, I just wanted to pass on my experience with this situation. I read lots of posts on this site and others, all saying when your interior blower doesn't work, or only works on high, then you need to change out the resistor. Most people also suggested that you change the blower at the same time, as often a problem with the blower results in a failure of the resistor, which a new one would then just go out due to the blower still pulling too many amps. Fair enough, all makes sense.

So that's what I did. Changed both. And since it was -15 here for the last 4 days, I didn't want to wait for the "1/2 price" parts from the web, instead I opted for the $205 blower and $65 resistor from the dealership. Not a big deal, 10 minute job to swap them out, the money is fine, I have them in my hands in an hour.

Funny part....... STILL DIDN'T WORK. So the Chevy guy in me says: "hey there HAS to be a fuse...." Well, EVERYONE, including the service guys at the dealership, everyone on here and all other places say..... "There isn't a fuse for the interior blower motor. It's just the resistor. That's the fuse." But I check anyway. Can't find anything. I pull every 20 amp or less fuse out of the interior box and the under the hood box. They are all fine.

I give up, call in the dealership troops, break down and take the car (driving in -15 with no blower mind you, 30 miles to work, then 60 miles from there to the dealer) to the dealer. Tell them my story, they have no ideas, but say they'll dig in the next morning......

Well, here comes the funny part. IT HAS A FRICKEN 40 AMP FUSE FOR THE BLOWER! And yes, it was blown. So dumb. Felt like a ding dong. But, I wanted to share this with everyone in case they run into the same thing.

So the fuse is #40, and was a 40 amp, in the interior fuse box. #40 is the first one in the bottom row of the larger fuses.

Hope someone else in the future finds this helpful. The mechanic still said, and I agree, that I needed to replace the resistor and blower anyway. If it blew a 40 amp fuse, something was wrong. Likely the blower motor went bad, wrecked the resistor, which let it work on high, but then the high pulled too much juice and popped the fuse.

Anyhow, that's my story. Hope everyone enjoys.
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Old February 1st, 2013, 08:23   #2
FXDL
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Location: Barrie Ontario Canada
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Changes are the fan and resistor were gone as the same happened to me. I found the 40 amp fan fuse blown. Changed it and it went again. The fan if I remember wright, only worked in the high speed. Installed a new resistor and fan motor and new fuse and for sure was the motor and resistor as they are still going strong. So I would not call you dumb or a ding dong. I believe you did the wright thing for sure and were smart in doing so. To blow a 40 amp fuse the fan and resistor were for sure gone. 40 amps is a lot of power to be drawing. Don't forget, to change the cabin air filter often. As it gets dirtier I would think is going to draw more amps and not help the fan and may burn out way before it's time.
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Old January 15th, 2015, 21:49   #3
ajn007
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Default a potential fix

Ok I solved the issue state above. After reading in multiple spots I was able to diagnose and fix the issue.
First the symptoms:
Heater fan blower does not work period. If your fan spins but not on all speeds check the resistor really easy to remove and carried at most part stores. Check the voltage at the fan plug, if its less than 12 you've probably got this issue or a blown fuse. Check fuse 40 (30amp) for power on top and bottom side of the fuse. If there is no power here or fuse 41 and 42 you've got most likely a bad relay. Another symptom is your window washer will also not work as this is on fuse 41.
What is causing this is a failing 460 relay. Part #1K0951253A. Download the following PDF and go to page http://home.comcast.net/~jeri534/fuses.pdf and go to page 15 and the relay that is in bad is B9. Simply swap b1 into b9 and your fan turns back on this is your problem. If your other 460 relay is bad the car won't run and will strand you. I replaced both for under $20 to stop that scenario from occurring.
Getting at the relay panel is described nowhere. You get to the relay panel by do the following:
Remove 2 T-20 screws in the plastic plate above the Peddles. Remove the plug to the light on the top part of the panel, don't forget to first free the red lock on the back part of the plug. Then use a flathead screw drive to free the clips on the 16 pin purple port. the plastic plate is now free to get the heck out of the way.
Now look straight up to the left of the steering wheel and you'll see the relay panel. You'll need to use a screw drive to remove relay B4[circled in blue in the pic] as arrow shape elongated piece of plastic will stop the panel from coming down [point at in blue in pic]. There are two push clips on each side just behind the wire connectors [look for green arrows for location. The pannel will fall and will need aided to completely come down. Moderate force down. Each 460 relay (black with this number on it circled in read) have clips holding it in, free with flat head. In addition, if you look at the fuse box under your hood you might find what I found. [/IMG] https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByK...ew?usp=sharing
The 100 amp that feeds the power to the realy was corroded. See second pic. The wire that feeds the power is under the blue 100 and you'll noticed the green corrosion. Put some corrosion remover to stop power supply issues going forward.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByK...ew?usp=sharing

Last edited by ajn007; January 15th, 2015 at 21:52.
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Old January 20th, 2015, 11:06   #4
Spike_africa
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I had the classic only on setting 4 fan. A simple resistor from the cheapest place I could find it got me up and running in a few minutes. Easy to install under the passenger glove box.
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