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Old November 23rd, 2012, 07:22   #1
Wingnut
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Default Engine mount thread repair

I know I have seen this posted before, but after a short search, I couldn't find it, so I thought I would post up my quick repair of an engine mount with stripped threads.

As you know, aluminum is softer than steel. With the engine mount bolts requiring a significant amount of torque, the threads can get damaged in these mounts after repeated removal & re-installation of the vertical mount bolts. My car is now on its 3rd timing belt and I didn't want to spend $150 on a new mount when I can make my old mount stronger by putting a steel insert in place of the aluminum threads.

On a scale of 1-10, this is about a 2 in difficulty. Other than than the kit itself, the only other tool you need is a tap handle and some cutting oil.

This is the kit I used. It is a Time-Sert kit number 1215 (m12 x 1.50). I went with this kit over a helicoil because it is a solid insert and much better IMHO.



The kit comes with 5 inserts, but they are only 16mm long and I wanted a more solid repair, so I bought extra inserts. They are 24mm long and will hold more of the bolt.

Here is the stripped threads in the mount. Its hard to see as the picture is blurry. But I did not feel that there was enough material left to feel confident it would hold up to another torque and another 160k km of holding the engine up.



Using the supplied drill bit, drill out the old threads. A drill is not required. I used the tap handle:



Then, use the ream tool to make a lip at the top of the hole for the shoulder of the insert. this prevents it from threading below the top of the hole and keeps it flush when inserted.



Then, tap the hole for the insert (cutting oil is recommended):



here are the finished holes to accept the inserts. You can see the lip more clearly in this picture that you made with the ream tool:



Once it is tapped, clean out the hole to remove the shavings. Then use some brake cleaner or similar to clean the threads in the hole. By removing the oil residue from the holes, the threadlock wil hold the insert better.

Apply some Loctite thread lock on the insert:



Use the insert tool to thread the insert into the hole. You must use oil on the insert tool for this step.



As it gets closer to the bottom, it will grab and thread the insert all the way to the bottom and make the repair flush. Its so easy, an 8 year old can do it:



And here is the finished product. The steel inserts are far stronger than the original aluminum threads and you can feel confident about applying the required torque on the new engine mount bolts.




Thanks for looking.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 07:31   #2
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Another great time and money saver from Wingnut. Thanks! This one will be saved for future use.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 07:38   #3
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Originally Posted by Mark of Diesel View Post
Another great time and money saver from Wingnut. Thanks! This one will be saved for future use.
x2 I am going to be doing timing belt no. 3 in the next few months so this is very helpful, I have been trying to decide between the Time-Certs and helicoils.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 07:43   #4
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Helicoils are fine for many applications. But when it comes to holding up my engine, I wanted to make sure the product was the best possible. Heli coils are cheaper and require less tools (basically just a drill & tap), but are not as strong IMHO. Especially when repairing aluminum threads. The kit and extra inserts cost just over $100 in the US (I paid almost $150 once shipping & taxes were added to get it to me in Canada). Thats still cheaper than a new mount and will be stronger than a new mount.

I got my kit from E-bay: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300688868626

Extra inserts: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300692096789
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Last edited by Wingnut; November 23rd, 2012 at 07:48.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 07:45   #5
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Good job on the write-up. This looks very easy to do.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 07:49   #6
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Nice write up. I know on my next timing belt (it will the third one) I will need to do this as my mount had some missing threads at the top on the second change.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 11:33   #7
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Excellent wingnut. I've used helicoils in the past but will probably use the timeserts in the future. Good idea to always look closely at the TTY bolts that are removed. Any aluminum caught in the threads means trouble.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 16:25   #8
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... But when it comes to holding up my engine, I wanted to make sure the product was the best possible. ...
Great point! I successfully used helicoils for repairing stripped out threads for the coolant flange, but those are small low torque threads. Makes sense to install the heavy duty steel inserts for the motor mount.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 17:04   #9
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Yes. TimeSerts are the way to go. I install them now whenever I remove the engine or transaxle mount bolts.

A couble of years ago I read about TimeSerts on this list. It was said to use the 30 mm length 12 X 1.5 mm inserts. Since then I have determined that you need to use either a 24 mm or 30 mm long insert, depending on the type of VW mount you have. I've noticed that there are two styles of threaded VW mount holes, both 30 mm long--open hole and blind hole. The transaxle mount on my son's 2.5 liter A5 Jetta has an open hole and I used a 30 mm insert and the insert filled the hole perfectly. Later, I threaded an ALH engine mount that HermTDI sent me and it had blind holes. Although the hole was a little over 30 mm deep, I could not drill any deeper because the drill bit would punch out the end of the mount. I tapped the hole and the tap supplied in the TimeSert kit bottomed out in the hole. I used a 30 mm insert and screwed it in until it reached the end of the tapped threads and it would not go in any deeper. About 3 mm of the insert was sticking out the top of the hole. Herm had to grind the insert down.

I have now concluded that for the blind hole mount, even though the thread depth is 30 mm, you need to use a 24 mm threaded insert (as pictured by Wingnut). The slightly shorter thread area should not matter, since the steel threads are a lot stronger.

I do not know if the open-hole mounts are specific to the transaxle mount, or if they are specific to the A5 Jetta, but for those, use the 30 mm long 12 X 1.5 mm insert.

Supposidly you don't need to use thread locker on the insert, since the insert tool rolls the threads and locks the insert in place, but it can't hurt.

Here is the transaxle mount with the open holes that I put 30 mm inserts in:







--Nate
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Last edited by PDJetta; November 23rd, 2012 at 19:31.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 17:13   #10
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Remember that the end of the mount bolt has a few mm of material that is not threaded:



So no need to have threads go all the way down into the hole. 24mm is plenty long enough.
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Old November 24th, 2012, 14:26   #11
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Thanks Wingnut, excellent information! I love this site.
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Old December 28th, 2013, 17:53   #12
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Anyone seen this stuff? The video shows the product being used to repair/remake new threads. Interesting stuff.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...1&postcount=10

HTC - 2000 is the product

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp
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Old January 31st, 2015, 11:05   #13
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And once in a while, even a TimeSert won't help...



Started to pull out of the mount bracket around 60 Ft*Lbs... So I got to practice on another bracket... good thing I had a spare sitting around...

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Old January 31st, 2015, 17:14   #14
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Just a little bit of info that might help someone. I got a couple of these inserts from a garage for cheap, a lot of garages keep kits for obvious reasons so might be worth checking if you don't want to buy a whole kit.
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Old April 4th, 2015, 21:02   #15
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nice write up
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