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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old October 26th, 2012, 19:27   #1
bhutchins
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Default Darkside Developments CR140 GTB2260 turbo kit

Getting started / baseline:

I recieved the kit next day by DHL!
I volunteered to fit the kit to my US CR140, I guess the US had the CR cars before the UK.
A lot of work has been done by Storx too here
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=357716
Here's Ryan's early mock up:

Note: the compressor outlet has been cut and rotated, Storx did this too, so it will fit close to the IC pipe

this is also the same turbo O.C.TDI http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=268968
used on his 2004 jetta with 248whp/433wtq

the kit included everything shown. the CR actuator, gaskets, bolt, modified turbo, header, oil feed and drian lines.

the header is made out of pipe, not tubing, so it is very durable.

this is a prototype, and it's fitment will be used to improve future kits.

I dyno'd the car with Performance-diesel downpipe 2-1/2" turbo back exhaust w/ cat and malone stage 2 tune and made 164 whp and ~285 wtq


the kit looks like the other dark side kits, with all the parts and gaskets below
with Audi GTB2260VK Turbo GS4 059 145 722 S

picture updated 10/29/2012

In preparation, I already installed:
Euro S3 IC
SouthBend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch
Pelequin Limited Slip Diff
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Sold : 234 WHP / 404 WTQ (550 N-M)

Last edited by bhutchins; June 13th, 2013 at 15:25.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 19:27   #2
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Getting the EGR system out of the way is a lot of work. Anyone considering a turbo upgrade may want to go ahead and get the EGR removal kit for "off road use only" of coarse. I have Ryan's kit here The Anti Shudder Valve (ASV) is shown right below.



this is what it replaces.... I dont want that gunk in my intake!


you will have to drain the coolant (aka anti-freeze) to remove the EGR cooler. the stock fluid is known as G12

As much as I tried, I could not get the EGR cooler out with the subframe still in, so turn to the steering rack replacement section of the Bently's manual

Remove the subframe: Remove the 4-13mm (1/2") bolts, the 16mm (5/8") and the 18mm (no equal) and the subframe will drop off, which allowed for the removal of the EGR cooler.

Unbolt the axle from the trans. this will really make for a lot of room. alternately you can remove the pass. tie rod end bold, then unscrew it with the hex in the middle, and unbolt the swaybar link and push them rearward
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Sold : 234 WHP / 404 WTQ (550 N-M)

Last edited by bhutchins; November 3rd, 2012 at 14:38.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 19:27   #3
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the turbo's out, comparing the two...




Going in:
IT FITS!!!!
I had to unbolt the axle from the trans to make room, but it went in relatively easy


Its close to the firewall, and the hood seal, but there's room for movement. I taped thw wires in foil backed mastic "foilmastic" and flipped the firewall wire hold down upside down to raise them up


per Storx:
When you go to install the subframe center back, trace the bolt on passenger side that bolts to steering electric motor assembly and put that bolt in first on Center section
The bolt is the rear small one on passenger side
make sure the alignment pins are in their holes on drivers side before you install the rest of the bolts


Bentleys list bolt torque to 50Nm (37 ft-lb) + 1/4 turn (90 degrees) - Always Replace

the bolts to the sway bar bushings are 17 ft-lb + 1/4 turn, part numbers are either
10x76mm bolt: N 105 797 02 or
8x75mm bolt: N 910 734 01
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Sold : 234 WHP / 404 WTQ (550 N-M)

Last edited by bhutchins; May 3rd, 2013 at 17:49.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 19:28   #4
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the plastic IC pipes are restrictive, so had some sent from RyanP "across the pond"
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Sold : 234 WHP / 404 WTQ (550 N-M)

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Old October 26th, 2012, 19:28   #5
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234 WHP / 404 WTQ, uncorrected, on same dyno
stock fueling

Video
http://youtu.be/w27EMe1LGSM
no smoke until WOT

Click for full size pdf

for comparison
2014 5.0 mustang 420 HP @ 6500 -16% = 352 HP / 390 FT-LB TQ @ 4250 -16% = 390 ft-lb
2013 370Z 332 HP @ 7000 - 16% = 279 HP / 270 ft-lb @ 5200 - 16% = 227 ft-lb
2013 Nissan GT-R 545HP - 16% = 458 HP / 463 ft-lb @ 3200 - 16% = 389 ft-lb
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Last edited by bhutchins; June 19th, 2013 at 09:54. Reason: added dyno resuts & comparison
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Old October 26th, 2012, 22:14   #6
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Reserved for post 6!

This looks like a super look project!
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Old October 26th, 2012, 22:19   #7
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Eyes on this
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Old October 26th, 2012, 22:30   #8
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Justin, you have eyes in too many places! Thanks for the big turbo install; car runs great!
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Old October 27th, 2012, 05:22   #9
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cant wait for this to happen and the build to start. super pumped.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 08:14   #10
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I figured this was yours
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Old October 27th, 2012, 09:28   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpoopie View Post
Eyes on this
if your just going to sit there and watch, you may as well lend a hand
it goes up on the ramps tomorrow

Aren't you running the 2260 also?

Actually I will need your expertise soon. I had bought that short block off the other Justin, I'm going to ceramic coat the pistons, and I already have the Rosten rods.
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Sold : 234 WHP / 404 WTQ (550 N-M)

Last edited by bhutchins; October 27th, 2012 at 09:31.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 09:38   #12
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What kind of numbers are you expecting from this kit...335d like numbers...?

df
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Old October 27th, 2012, 09:45   #13
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Indeed I am. Also building up a pd to swap to, and will be using a gtb2260 water cooled
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Old October 27th, 2012, 10:36   #14
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look what you get to enjoy aswell.. love this sound... man this turbo throws you in your seat once you get the vanes adjusted...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6JeHWsH4RQ
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Old October 29th, 2012, 15:09   #15
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updated the kit picture in post 1

Injector socket (T40055) works great for removing the stock turbo oil feed line

man is that EGR stuff hard to get off. the EGR filter back bolt is hard to get to. the turbo oil drain line is in the way, my 3/8 drive socket might work if I had a 2" extension (4" is too long) and I cant get a standard wrench on it either. off to the harware store.

Update: the 1" extension worked perfect
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Last edited by bhutchins; October 30th, 2012 at 08:52. Reason: confirmed socket#
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