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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old August 2nd, 2012, 10:01   #1
Local2ED
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TDI(s): 2005 Jetta
Default Alternator pulley on '05 Jetta?

Hi, I have an '05 Jetta (BEW) that makes an intermittent growling noise on start-up that causes the battery light on the dash to light while the noise is heard. After about five minutes of idling it stops making noise. The battery light comes on only when it makes the noise.
I did the searching on this forum and it sounds like the clutch pulley is the problem but I don't recall anybody saying their battery light comes on with the noise. Why would a noisy pulley cause the battery light to turn on?
I have some numbers off the alternator but don't know if it's a Bosch or Valeo, and the dealer couldn't tell me either as of now.
I checked the pully and it spins in one direction only although it felt just very slightly a little rough, I expected from the noise it would be worse.
Anyway, here are the numbers on the alternator:

038 903 023L
90A 14V
3RO 32/04
0 124 325 001 (904)
Made in Mexico

Also the alternator spins very smooth both ways with no noise.

Can anybody tell me alternator I have and if all the clutch/pulleys are the same?
Thank you.

Last edited by Local2ED; August 2nd, 2012 at 10:05.
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 11:03   #2
PDJetta
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"Why would a noisy pulley cause the battery light to turn on?"

Because it is slipping due to an internal clutch mechanism failure and the alternator is slowing, causing the charge light to illuminate. All of the alternator pulleys on the BEW are clutched and there is only one type:

http://idparts.com/catalog/product_i...oducts_id=1118

You need this to replace it:

http://idparts.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=564

The original pulleys are an extremely high failure item. Many fail in the 80,000 mile range. I can almost guarantee you yours has failed.

--Nate
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 12:09   #3
Local2ED
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Thanks,PDJetta, I thought it might be slowing/slipping but could not tell by it running.I'll buy the pulley that you showed me and take the alternator to a alternator repair shop where they told me they would swap the pulley for "a couple bucks", at that price I don't know if it's worth buying the tool, although some people have said you can replace the pulley in the car with the metalnerd tool, others said it's easier to pull the alternator and do it on the bench.
The car has 133,000 miles on it so it probably was due like you said.

If I disconnect the battery on this car do I need to do anything specific when I re-connect like code the radio or anything else?
Thanks.
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 12:30   #4
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It is probably easier to replace the pulley in the car rather than remove the alternator.

You shouldn't need to do anything with the radio. Sometimes the airbag light will come on and sometimes the windows won't auto-up for a couple times but those both usually reset themselves.
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 13:21   #5
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Disconnecting the battery will also reset your trip OD and the clock will default to 12:00, but no big deal unless you keep close track of your mileage.
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 13:22   #6
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I replaced the pulley on mine with the alternator in the car and I have the older style pulley tools that are longer. I did have to loosen the windshield washer reservoir for added clearance, though.

If the alternator repair shop has the proper tools that would be easier. Ask them if they will replace it for you with the alternator on the car. If not, on the BEW the alternator is not too hard to remove. The pulley is on the shaft quite tight, though. Do disconnect the battery ground strap first, though. You don't need the radio code. The code is only needed if your radio is installed in another VW.

--Nate
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Old August 2nd, 2012, 14:57   #7
climbtheplanet
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This is for the ALH engine but it sounds like the same procedure only easier on the BEW engine because it is accessible through the top:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=234251
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Old August 13th, 2012, 15:48   #8
Local2ED
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I replaced the pulley today and that cured the problem. I ended up removing the alternator and taking it to a alt./gen./ starter rebuilding shop that I use to rebuild my stuff, charged me $10.00 and fifteen minutes later I was heading home to re-install the alt.
Really is easy to remove on the BEW engine.
Hooked the battery back up and everything worked like before.
Never knew about a clutch pulley on a alt. untill I searched the noise on this forum. I was ready to have the alt. rebuilt because it sounded like a bearing going bad.
Anyway, thanks for everybody's help, I probably saved myself a few bucks and I hope this thread saves a few buck's for somebody else.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 11:18   #9
jdross440
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Is there a solid (non clutched) pulley for the A4 Jetta (mines a 2002 TDI with the 120 amp bosch)? I have a 9 month old alternator that acts like the pulley is slipping at speed after about 70 miles of driving. The bat light will come on. Let the engine idle down and it goes out. Does good for about 60 or 70 miles and then comes on again.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 11:20   #10
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You don't want a solid pulley on there.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 11:24   #11
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The question is why? A statement "You don't want a solid pulley on there" needs an explanation. They make them for the A5.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 11:30   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdross440 View Post
The question is why? A statement "You don't want a solid pulley on there" needs an explanation. They make them for the A5.
I guess you've never experienced what happens when they lock up then? It'll beat the crap out of the tensioner, the belt, and eventually throw it off. Which is why the first complaint of a locked up pulley is "car is making a banging/knocking noise at idle, and the tensioner is bouncing".

prothe also sells parts for these cars, you would be wise not to use any of them, however.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 11:34   #13
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Thanks for the explanation. I have had them lock up on American and Japanese cars. Usually the alternators have just had the regulators fail (or get a noisy bearing) before locking up. I have a 9 month old "Lifetime" rebuilt from OReilleys Auto. I'll just take it back tonight or tomorrow and swap it out.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 11:36   #14
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Keep in mind, a locked up alternator is NOT the same as a locked up pulley.
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Old August 21st, 2012, 10:51   #15
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Another faulty, expensive German design. With the high cost and high failure rate of parts on the VW, this will be my last one.
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