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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old August 15th, 2012, 10:58   #61
CFM
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The nice thing about using the in-tank pump is not having to worry about purging air out of the fuel lines when you open the system for any reason (such as fuel filter change). I also find that my project starts a lot quicker with the fuel pump on.
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Old August 15th, 2012, 15:23   #62
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Ahh ok. And I can say with pretty near absolute confidence the the M5OD will get you too and hold 4L numbers. Provided the trans is in good shape. And if I'm not mistaken the 4L rangers with the standard trans had an M5OD as well
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Old August 15th, 2012, 22:11   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Ranger View Post
Ahh ok. And I can say with pretty near absolute confidence the the M5OD will get you too and hold 4L numbers. Provided the trans is in good shape. And if I'm not mistaken the 4L rangers with the standard trans had an M5OD as well
You're right on that one but at the 4L power level I'll have WAY more torque (stock 4L torque is 225 ft lb at the flywheel. Stock 4L HO is 238 ft lb at the flywheel)
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Old August 16th, 2012, 07:05   #64
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You're gonna put an alison transmission in that thing? What? hahaha jk
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Old August 16th, 2012, 07:10   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greengeeker View Post
Exactly. I'm using the stock Ranger pump as my lift pump and will add an aftermarket, adjustable fuel pressure regulator to dial the pressure down to TDI-friendly territories.
The existing Ford pump is capable of producing in excess of 60 PSI, but that is because of the way the fuel system is set up for gas injectors. The pump will only produce pressure when there is restriction. If the fuel is free flowing to the IP and then the return line, the pressure will only be what the volume of flow generates through the restriction of the IP.

A regulator will pass flow to the engine until the pump volume exceeds engine use, then it will bypass excess flow to the tank. In a diesel do you not want the excess flow to pass through the IP for cooling and lubrication? I think I would try removing the internal regulator and running it with a gauge in the supply line to see what the pressure is before adding another regulator.

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Old August 16th, 2012, 07:22   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
The existing Ford pump is capable of producing in excess of 60 PSI, but that is because of the way the fuel system is set up for gas injectors. The pump will only produce pressure when there is restriction. If the fuel is free flowing to the IP and then the return line, the pressure will only be what the volume of flow generates through the restriction of the IP.

A regulator will pass flow to the engine until the pump volume exceeds engine use, then it will bypass excess flow to the tank. In a diesel do you not want the excess flow to pass through the IP for cooling and lubrication? I think I would try removing the internal regulator and running it with a gauge in the supply line to see what the pressure is before adding another regulator.

Paul
I did that on an engine swap (albiet not a VW engine), and the supply pressure of 60psi that I had would go into the injection pump, and any excess went into the return line. But the return line of the injection pump was shared with the injector return line, so the now higher pressure of the return line was making those little slip-on return lines at the injectors pop off. Not good, and diesel all over the engine bay haha!

I run an edelbrock regulator made for carbs, and it regulates it down to my desired psi under 10, and have no more return line pressure problems, and no more return lines popping off...

food for thought
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Old August 16th, 2012, 07:37   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
The existing Ford pump is capable of producing in excess of 60 PSI, but that is because of the way the fuel system is set up for gas injectors. The pump will only produce pressure when there is restriction. If the fuel is free flowing to the IP and then the return line, the pressure will only be what the volume of flow generates through the restriction of the IP.

A regulator will pass flow to the engine until the pump volume exceeds engine use, then it will bypass excess flow to the tank. In a diesel do you not want the excess flow to pass through the IP for cooling and lubrication? I think I would try removing the internal regulator and running it with a gauge in the supply line to see what the pressure is before adding another regulator.

Paul
I'm leery of putting unregulated fuel pressure to the inlet of the IP. For one thing what happens if I pause between turning the ignition on and cranking the engine (ie waiting for GP's)? I'm not too concerned about additional cooling/lubrication since the IP is designed to survive without any additional flow provided by a secondary pump. I would be worried about the functionality of my N108 since it works off the differential pressure between the case pressure and the inlet pressure to the pump. Too much inlet pressure (60+ psi) could force the injection timing piston to be full retard and not allow any advance.
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Old August 16th, 2012, 13:36   #68
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Great project. Here's a couple thoughts I had after reading the past several posts:

1. A TDIwagonguy replacement PD pump motor swapped onto the ranger sending unit might be an easy way to get the fuel pressure correct.
2. I have an adjustable fuel lab pressure regulator on the return line of my truck. It is inline and does not bypass to anywhere.
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Old August 16th, 2012, 14:12   #69
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Here is a post I posted in jimbote's toyota thread that explains what fuel pressure regulator I'll be using:

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Originally Posted by greengeeker View Post
OK. I got it all sorted out.

I purchased the Nitrous Express 15956 regulator which is a modified Holley 12-803 (single inlet, dual outlet, 4.5-9psi operating range) with an added bypass port in the inlet AND a fuel pressure gauge. This small fitting accepts a jet that bleeds off pressure/flow so the pump isn't dead headed into the regulator. Once assembled the fitting and jet are an AN-3 fitting. I wish they had said this somewhere in their wesite! They simply state it is a D-3 outlet which doesn't mean anything to me...maybe this is normal lingo in the nitrous/aftermarket crowds.









For future reference this kit comes with:
  • Regulator
  • Mounting bracket
  • Bypass fitting
  • Bypass jet
  • 1/8NPT - 3/8NPT reducer
  • Fuel pressure gauge
I had to purchase:
  • AN-3 to 1/8NPT 90deg adapter. I would have prefered to go up to a 1/4NPT or higher but 1/8NPT was all I could find for adapters from AN-3. For my install location I also chose to go with the 90deg turn. I put together a few different combinations of adapters and this ended up being the cheapest at $16.
  • 1/8NPT - 5/16" barb (not pictured)
  • M6x1.00, 12mm long bolts and washer (x2) and tapped the holes to receive them
  • 3/8NPT - 3/8" barb adapter (x2). Again, I would have prefered 5/16" barb but was limited by the selection at my FLAPS. I can get a 5/16" line over these barbs so I'm going with it.
Ok, you may now return to Toyota-TDI-awesomeness.
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Old August 16th, 2012, 15:50   #70
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Perfect!
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Old August 17th, 2012, 07:12   #71
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1st vehicle I ever drove was my dad's 87 4-banger ranger. It ran so bad everybody thought it already WAS a diesel.

I have fond memories of the ol' ranger, and recently have been jonesing for a little diesel pickup.

I'm elated to see that you're figuring out the hard problems for us and blazing the trail for TDI Rangers eveywhere!!!!

Really enjoying this thread and looking forward to future posts!
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Old August 17th, 2012, 08:08   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greengeeker View Post
I'm leery of putting unregulated fuel pressure to the inlet of the IP. For one thing what happens if I pause between turning the ignition on and cranking the engine (ie waiting for GP's)? I'm not too concerned about additional cooling/lubrication since the IP is designed to survive without any additional flow provided by a secondary pump. I would be worried about the functionality of my N108 since it works off the differential pressure between the case pressure and the inlet pressure to the pump. Too much inlet pressure (60+ psi) could force the injection timing piston to be full retard and not allow any advance.
You could just not have a fuel pump and simplify the issue al la me? lol

But I'm glad there is someone else doing this aswell. I might have to change my nick as I wont be the only TDI ranger anymore it seems!
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Old August 17th, 2012, 08:14   #73
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oh btw they do make returnless regulator like the one I have on my mustang(2006 mustang with a 408W(351W stroker) If that helps any.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13205/

I had to use this as the 408W is carberated and I retained the use of the factory tank/pump assembly
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Old August 19th, 2012, 08:56   #74
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I should have included this earlier to the fuel tank mod:

Before:

After:


You MUST do this while the tank it out. The Ranger has a mesh screen (anti-siphon measure?) that will catch all the debris from this removal that you need to clean out. I basically back-flushed the fill tube with compressed air at the tank end and my shopvac at the fill end. This worked very well getting every last bit of plastic out of there.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 23:05   #75
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Default Intercooler Mounting, Cont'd

I finally got around to cutting the intercooler inlet/outlets but it doesn't seem I have a good picture of the modification. I posted this picture earlier that basically shows how much I trimmed off the intercooler and the elbow:



I haven't welded them yet as I may angle the lower inlet up to eliminate a bend in the hose or tubing.

As mentioned previously I modified the Ranger condenser mounting brackets which meant removing material to clear the intercooler. I probably would not have needed to add any more material but I wanted to shift the FMIC a little toward the driver's side. I fab'd up some small brackets to which I welded some weldnuts.





And here is the completed cooling system from the engine side. Radiator connections on one side, intercooler connections on the other.

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