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Old July 27th, 2012, 08:34   #1
Ruffrida
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Default Oil from EGR, causing limp mode??

Hi Ya'll,

I have noticed a bit of oil coming out of the hole in the bottom of my EGR.

After a few searches i have found out this may cause limp mode, can anyone else confirm this??

And if so can it be repaired or do you just have to replace??

Also the car is revving up & down alot, like an auto choke. It also tries to run away with its self when cruising at low revs, or no revs at all. Where as a normal car would try and stall, this feels like when it gets to stalling it revs up and off it goes..
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Old July 27th, 2012, 10:08   #2
jettawreck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffrida View Post
Hi Ya'll,

I have noticed a bit of oil coming out of the hole in the bottom of my EGR.

After a few searches i have found out this may cause limp mode, can anyone else confirm this??

And if so can it be repaired or do you just have to replace??

Also the car is revving up & down alot, like an auto choke. It also tries to run away with its self when cruising at low revs, or no revs at all. Where as a normal car would try and stall, this feels like when it gets to stalling it revs up and off it goes..
The EGR "weeping" oil in itself won't cause limp mode. A failed diaphram in the EGR "may" cause limp mode due to a vacuum leak, but not conclusive.

More concerned about your other issue. Sounds like you may be having, or on the verge of having a "runaway" situation. This can be very serious. Engine runs away uncontrolled from engine oil thru the intake system, usually from accumulation in the IC from turbo seals gone bad or from oil entering the intake from the crankcase breather/vent.
You need to get that (if I understand the symptom correctly) diagnosed. A true runaway will lead to bent rods and often maybe more.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 10:52   #3
Ruffrida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettawreck View Post
The EGR "weeping" oil in itself won't cause limp mode. A failed diaphram in the EGR "may" cause limp mode due to a vacuum leak, but not conclusive.

More concerned about your other issue. Sounds like you may be having, or on the verge of having a "runaway" situation. This can be very serious. Engine runs away uncontrolled from engine oil thru the intake system, usually from accumulation in the IC from turbo seals gone bad or from oil entering the intake from the crankcase breather/vent.
You need to get that (if I understand the symptom correctly) diagnosed. A true runaway will lead to bent rods and often maybe more.

Hiya Bud,

this dont sound to good, i was really hoping they were both related!!

What would be the best way of diagnosing the run away without vag-com??

The limp mode issue has been going on for a while, can you repair the diaprham and how?

Cheers
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Old July 27th, 2012, 11:15   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffrida View Post
Hiya Bud,

this dont sound to good, i was really hoping they were both related!!

What would be the best way of diagnosing the run away without vag-com??

The limp mode issue has been going on for a while, can you repair the diaprham and how?

Cheers
I'm not very familiar with the exact engine in your TDI, but I would check the amount of oil accumulated in the IC and/or intake plumbing. Does the engine use much oil, or aprox how much does it use? If consumption is low (normal) your turbo seals are probably fine. After cleaning out the intake and IC a regular brisk acceleration run may be all that's needed to keep it clean(er), that is if its normally driven kind of conservatively.

Again, not sure if the EGR is similar to mine, but the oil weeping doesnt mean the diaphram has failed. My '01 weeps some oil out the EGR vent but holds vacuum. The '03 doesn't weep oil, but the diaphram leaks.
Diaphram, if bad, isn't repaired. New EGR valve time.
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Old July 27th, 2012, 11:24   #5
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Most of the time weepy EGR valves don't cause a drivability. FWIW, it seems that weepy EGRs are a result of cleaning them with too-harsh a solvent...like brake cleaner.

You might want to remove the turbo inlet pipe and check for turbo shaft play, as well as remove the lower intercooler hose to check if the turbo is passing a ton of oil, as that will certainly cause 'runaway' issues.
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Old July 28th, 2012, 03:59   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettawreck View Post
I'm not very familiar with the exact engine in your TDI, but I would check the amount of oil accumulated in the IC and/or intake plumbing. Does the engine use much oil, or aprox how much does it use? If consumption is low (normal) your turbo seals are probably fine. After cleaning out the intake and IC a regular brisk acceleration run may be all that's needed to keep it clean(er), that is if its normally driven kind of conservatively.

Again, not sure if the EGR is similar to mine, but the oil weeping doesnt mean the diaphram has failed. My '01 weeps some oil out the EGR vent but holds vacuum. The '03 doesn't weep oil, but the diaphram leaks.
Diaphram, if bad, isn't repaired. New EGR valve time.
Hi,

Engine code is AHF, turbo was replaced only a few months ago. It does not run away all the time, only every now and then.
I have also blanked of the Egr, dont know if that would make much diffrence??
It does not use much oil, just the typical amount for a 13year old diesel.
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Old July 30th, 2012, 01:15   #7
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Decided to do a little experiment yesterday to do with this "overrun".

Went to an industrial (some where there was no one around, just in case), cruised in second just before turbo kick in and took me foot of the accelrater, yes it runaway but only for a few seconds, then tried to stall.

Lucky really cause it could of just taken off or even worse not stopped revving and done some damage!!
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Old July 30th, 2012, 07:39   #8
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You say low rpm. How low?

Unlike a gas engine, a diesel will try to maintain idle speed. If you try to lug it below 900 rpm the ECU will supply more fuel. Is that what you're experiencing?

"Runaways" usually happen at high rpm where there's enough air flow to carry oil into the cylinder from the TC, IC or even crancase.
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Old August 1st, 2012, 02:07   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLXD View Post
You say low rpm. How low?

Unlike a gas engine, a diesel will try to maintain idle speed. If you try to lug it below 900 rpm the ECU will supply more fuel. Is that what you're experiencing?

"Runaways" usually happen at high rpm where there's enough air flow to carry oil into the cylinder from the TC, IC or even crancase.
After speaking to a few other A3 Tdi owners (Audisport.net) i have discovered this is quite normal and if it only happens at low revs then everything should be ok
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Old August 6th, 2012, 01:12   #10
Ruffrida
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Had it scanned yesterday

Please see fault codes below;

17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
Possible Symptoms


Reduced power output
Limp mode
Possible Causes


Boost Pressure too High
Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
Charger Pressure Control defective
VNT (variable nozzle turbo): nozzles stuck
Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective
Possible Solutions


Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control Possible Causes
Check / Clean mechanism for variable nozzles

17664 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (G62): Open / Short to B+

Possible Symptoms
Difficulties with starting a cold engine.
Diesel: an indication is extreme long time burning time of the glow indication light.
Starting the engine when engine is warmish or warm, idle rpm immediately is 1200 - 3000 rpm.
RPM at idle is irregular.
With all engine temperatures seldom idle rpm will vary between 900 - 1000 rpm.
With engine warm (90 C) the engine temperature suddenly drops (70 C) and slowly comes back to 90 C.
Bad acceleration during warming up.
Wiring and/or connections faulty
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) faulty - Ordered a new one should be here tomorrow


17978/P1570/005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer

Possible Symptoms
Engine starting but stalling immediately
Possible Causes


Key(s) not matched
Instrument Cluster not matched
Engine Control Unit (ECU) not matched
Engine Control Unit (ECU) Power Supply faulty
Possible Solutions


Check for Fault Codes in Immobilizer itself (part of Instrument Cluster in many cars, but separate Immobilizer Control Module in some)
Check Immobilizer Measuring Values (usually in Instrument Cluster OR Immobilizer Control Module)
Match Key(s)/Instrument Cluster/Engine Control Unit (ECU)
Check Engine Control Unit (ECU) Power Supply (Relay)
Special Notes


In case of Engine Starting Issues please make sure that you are really experience an Immobilizer related Problem! Even if the Immobilizer engages, the Engine will still start fine but cut out after 2-3 Seconds. If you are NOT experiencing this behavior (e.g. Engine doesn't start at all) your Problem is very likely NOT Immobilizer related.
May be stored in Combination with 01176 - Key: Signal too Low in Immobilizer Control Module.
If no other immobilizer related fault codes are stored and the immobilizer related meas. blocks are fine except Engine Start not allowed, in rare occasions it helps to try cold-booting the car. Remove both battery cables from the battery. Short the battery cables together (away from the battery) for about 15 seconds. Reconnect the battery. (Example)
Low battery voltage (including a faulty battery) may cause Immobilizer system malfunctions and testing should be done only with a known good battery installed.
Possible Solutions


Check wiring and connections
Check / Replace Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)
Special Notes


In MY 1995-2002 (?) in Europe at VW-cars the G2/G62 had the bad reputation of breaking down often. The default G2/G62 is black and all replacements are green.
17849 - N18 - This does not show up on Ross-Tech??
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