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Old June 11th, 2012, 12:24   #1
Kerma06TDI
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Default Urgent help needed

I was taking off my egr cooler since it was broken and going to install block off plates. the top bolt from the exhaust header has completely broke off when i tried to tighten the plate down. What can I do now?? Its an 06 Jetta brm. I was thinking either have someone drill out the old studs and tap the hole and do it that way? Any other suggestions?

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Old June 11th, 2012, 12:48   #2
witchcraftz
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Try using easy-outs? Then new bolt.

You could put some exhaust paste around the block off plate and see it it holds with just the bolt and a hose clamp(or even heavy twisted wire), as a temporary fix but may get you to home/parts shop.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 12:53   #3
copakabata
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There are some very good mechanics on here that can give very good advice / ideas.

I consider myself a professional parts changer but, my advice, IMO:

Did just the head break off, or did it break off flush or inside of the block?

If you take the exhaust off, and there is some stud sticking out, try these (again IMO, guru's please chime in):

I would try doing these in this order...
A. Soak it with a good penetrant, kroil or pb blaster
1. Grab with a pair of good toothed vice grips and try to remove
2. Heat (carefully) and then try to remove with vice grips
3. Weld (carefully) a nut that threads onto what's sticking out or fits over the stud, then remove with wrench

If nothing is sticking out, I would think your only option is left-handed drill bits and tap it out after that.

Again, this is what I would probably do, but there are people MUCH smarter than I on this forum...
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Old June 11th, 2012, 12:55   #4
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How much of the stud is showing??? I've had success welding on a nut. Then before trying to remove it use penetrating oil and heat the stud again. Let the stud and welded nut cool completely before reheating.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 12:56   #5
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copa beat me........
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Old June 11th, 2012, 13:10   #6
Kerma06TDI
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The stud actually broke off a little into the manifold if that makes sense. So there is nothing sticking out and not flush enough to weld something to. Would the easy outs be able to get in there? Its maybe 1/16" down into the hole. The lower one ill replace at the same time can come out with vice grips. Will it have to go backwards through the back of the flange or can I just screw It out? Thanks for the suggestions so far guys!

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Old June 11th, 2012, 13:41   #7
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I'd drill a small hole in it then use an easy out on it. Some Kroil first and let it sit for a while. Kroil works great but you have to give it time.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 13:59   #8
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If it gets to be too big of a job for you, there are some very good people in your area that should be able to help you out with fixing it.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 15:32   #9
copakabata
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Did it turn at all before it broke off? If so, that's a help. If not, get ready for it to be a PITA.

Is part of the stud sticking out the other side? If so, then try what I said before on that side.

If not, try one of these two, depending on what tools you have access to:

1. (Probably better of the two) drill a hole as mentioned in other posts. If the hole is threaded all the way through, you may get lucky and it will thread itself out.if not threaded all the way through, and you don't mind spending a few bucks, get an appropriately sized, left handed drill bit. Drill pilot hole with regular drill bit, then use left handed. Again, maybe you get lucky and it threads itself out. Don't know what kind of close quarters you are working with, but a right angle drill may be of extreme help.

2. Get a small chisel and chisel phillips head (cross) into bolt. Get a hammer driver with phillips head bit on it, and drive the bolt out or through, depending on if threaded through or not, as above.

Hope this helps, keep us posted.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 04:58   #10
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I would not use an easy out. They can break off and then it will be just about impossible to extract that hardened tool steel.

I like drilling out the hole, small drill bit first and work up in size(s) to get close to the threads. But you MUST get near to dead center in the hole. Then use the appropriate tap and cut new bolt threads.

I've never used the left-hand drill bits. I like that idea and will give them a try next time I get in this pradicament.

If you can not get the clearance to properly drill out and tap, then the turbocharger/exhaust manifold will have to be removed so you can drill it out properly.

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Old June 12th, 2012, 06:31   #11
copakabata
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Oh, I forgot option 3.

What you need:
$40
5 gallon gas can
Lawn chair
Large open area, away from innocent bystanders
Ignition source
Means of transportation (Your Jetta or otherwise)

Directions:
- Use means of transportation to travel to local watering hole, use portion of $40 to purchase preferred choice of 'liquid courage'
- Use means of transportation to travel to gas station, use remaining money to fill gas can with gasoline
- Use means of transportation to travel back to your Jetta (if driving Jetta, skip this step)
- Take Jetta to large open area, away from innocent bystanders.
- Pour contents of gas can on top of and inside of car, and make long trail leading away from the car. Be careful not to spill contents on yourself.
- Set up lawn chair a safe distance from vehicle.
- Use ignition source on trail of gas can contents
- Return to lawn chair
- Sit down, and enjoy liquid courage and the show.

The reason I mention this option is because I have considered it on more than one occasion...
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'99.5 Jetta (mine) - 350k+, 5 speed, cat-ectomy, short shifter, Panzer plate, other silliness on the way...
'02 Jetta (hers) - 250k+, 5 spd on standby, ventectomy, 5 light brake mod, H&R Springs, Panzer plate, Beetle sunglass holder / center sunshade swap
'00 Golf 4 dr (project) - 5 speed, has the uber-cool BTB mod (broken timing belt mod)...
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Old June 12th, 2012, 20:07   #12
Kerma06TDI
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Well tried getting left handed drill bits in there bit the angle was so weird and tight I didn't want to risk messing anything up even more. Took it to a well known VW/Audi shop here and they said they would have to take off the Turbo and manifold to be able to drill them out. That would have been 5 hours of labor and mucho denero, so he just welded a plate in there since I don't plan on putting the cooler back on ever I almost chose option 3 and got the 40$ a bottle of 151 rum and a few gallons of gas cause that was almost the easiest option thanks everyone so much! This forum and community is tthe reason I love having a diesel Jetta so much

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Old June 12th, 2012, 21:10   #13
witchcraftz
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Other option I have heard was to drill a hole the exact diameter of a screw, heat the bolt up and it will expand a bit then screw the screw in. Let it cool to tighten around the screw, then unscrew.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 07:39   #14
copakabata
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That works too. Hopefully they welded it in such a way that you can remove it and reinstall the cooler, in case you need to for selling it or for emissions purposes. As for the help, no problem, glad I can be the helper instead of the helped for a change!
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'99.5 Jetta (mine) - 350k+, 5 speed, cat-ectomy, short shifter, Panzer plate, other silliness on the way...
'02 Jetta (hers) - 250k+, 5 spd on standby, ventectomy, 5 light brake mod, H&R Springs, Panzer plate, Beetle sunglass holder / center sunshade swap
'00 Golf 4 dr (project) - 5 speed, has the uber-cool BTB mod (broken timing belt mod)...
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Old June 13th, 2012, 13:46   #15
runonbeer
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Electronic disintegration. A 100% sure shot. Turbo will have to be removed.
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