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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old April 3rd, 2012, 17:56   #1
eggcrusher
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Default 2006 Jetta TDI: Stalling / Rough start in cold temperatures

Hi there,

I have a 2006 Jetta TDI and if I start it in the morning (first time starting) and the temperatures are below 0 degrees Celsius, it will idle very rough and if I don't let it run for a good 2 minutes or so it bogs down and stalls shortly after putting it in drive and giving it gas.
It also seems to be idling a little louder than normal when at lights / stopped. So I'm wondering if that could be related?

I already brought the car to my mechanic and he started off by replacing the fuel filter (which he said was quite dirty) and he also did a fuel system purge. But the issue is still occurring.

So I was wondering if anyone had any ideas? Could it possibly be an issue with the glow plugs?
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Old April 3rd, 2012, 18:03   #2
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How many miles are on the car?

Have you checked all positive charge intake tubing to make sure it's all properly secured and clamped with no leaks? Including the intercooler.
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Last edited by slamhouse; April 3rd, 2012 at 18:06.
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Old April 3rd, 2012, 18:49   #3
eggcrusher
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It has 170,000 kms on it. No I haven't checked any of the intake tubing. Could it be as simple as an intake leak?
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Old April 3rd, 2012, 18:56   #4
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I doubt that its an intake leak, but I know others more knowledgable than myself will chime in shortly with a better answer for you.

I believe that the glow plugs dont activate until intake air temperature goes below something like 0 degrees celcius.
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Old April 8th, 2012, 18:33   #5
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Turn's out there's an issue with the clutch pulley on my alternator being seized which is causing a bit of a vibration / noise when the engine is idling. Was told that if the pulley seizes completely it will burn out my alternator. So I'll need to get this looked at as well.

Anyone else have any thoughts on my original issue though?
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Old April 27th, 2012, 16:46   #6
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UPDATE:

Okay so I brought the car to my VW mechanic here in Hamilton (The Bug Shop) and they replaced the clutch pulley on the alternator which was in fact seizing. They also did a bit more investigating into my black smoke / stalling / hesitation problems and discovered the EGR had a lot of excess carbon buildup. So they cleaned the EGR but also did more investigating since the EGR is usually the victim of something else and they found the lobes on my cam to be very worn!
So I haven't a clue why this would happen, I always get my oil changes done at regular intervals and don't add any additives to my oil which could explain this from happening. I'm probably going to hold off on getting the cam replaced since its a pretty costly repair.

Last edited by eggcrusher; April 27th, 2012 at 16:47. Reason: spelling error
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Old April 27th, 2012, 18:17   #7
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Common problem on these cars, no predicting when it goes, but, you must have had the signs.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 11:57   #8
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There are no noticeable symptoms of cam wear. Once lobes are REALLY worn, power will suffer, but this is so gradual most don't notice until after cam replaced.

Try not starting the car for two days. If motor must crank & crank before starting, then it's fuel starvation from a bad check valve. If this is the case do a search for the fix.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 11:30   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggcrusher View Post
I'm probably going to hold off on getting the cam replaced since its a pretty costly repair.
I wouldn't wait if you can afford to do it now. When the cam wears down it will eat into the lifters, where does all that shaved metal go? I just had to redo my cam it wasn't too hard of a job.

Scott
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Old June 29th, 2012, 09:31   #10
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So I finally had the repair done and the car drives like a dream now!

They replaced the cam and all 8 lifters, plus had an oil change performed to get rid of some of the metal shavings. They recommend that I come in early (~6000 KM) for another oil change to avoid any new damage to the new parts from the possible metal shavings.

The real test will be when the temperature drops again in the fall and hopefully my car doesn't bog down like it did in the winter.
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Old June 29th, 2012, 11:21   #11
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Recommended oil and filter change intervals for a cam job are:
- immediately after 2000 RPM for 20 minutes, no load (break-in oil)
- after 500 driven miles (break-in oil)
- after 2500 driven miles (505.01, 5-40 weight recommended)
- 10K thereafter (505.01, 5-40 weight recommended)
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Old June 29th, 2012, 12:22   #12
Eliminateur
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If this is the case do a search for the fix.
i've searched the forums and i can't find any reference to a check valve fix, do you have the thread at hand?
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Old June 29th, 2012, 23:25   #13
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Try this thread for the check valve issue in the fuel filter canister.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=355436

If the car seems to start O.K. in warm weather but starts hard when the weather and car are cold, I would suspect the glow plugs and/or the glow plug harness.

In the 101 section there is a thread on troubleshooting glow plug issues. The first thing I would do is scan for fault codes with VCDS.
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