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Old March 22nd, 2012, 10:24   #1
Oleolson
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Default Changing thermostat in a 2003 jetta tdi?

I have been looking for video of how-to change a thermostat in my 2003 tdi getta, Only finding gas ones on you-tube. Does any one have a or know of link? Or any other helpfully ideas for changing the thermostat??

Thanks, Ole
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 10:36   #2
jcrews
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It's very easy. Get a new thermostat with o-ring, preferably genuine/OEM.

Place a catch pan under the radiator and open the drain by twisting it and pulling it out until it stops. Open the overflow reservoir cap to speed up draining. Close the radiator drain once the water stops draining Use spring clamp release pliers to release a hose from the oil-water heat exchanger below the oil filter housing. Replace the hose once the water stops draining.

You can skip the above if you put a large catch pan under the engine and allow the water to spill out of the thermostat housing, but it will make a big mess.

Just below the injection pump, remove the plastic water nipple from the water pump housing on the engine block using a 10 mm 1/4" drive socket and long (6 inch) extension. Carefully try to release the nipple from the thermostat by twisting it.

Clean the sealing surface on the engine with a rag.

Install the new thermostat and seal in the nipple. There are two tabs that hold the thermostat in place. If those are broken, remove any loose pieces and use a loop of string or wire to hold the thermostat in from the open end. The string or wire will be removed once the nipple is secured in place with the screws. Do not overtighten the screws.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 10:53   #3
jettawreck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrews View Post
It's very easy. Get a new thermostat with o-ring, preferably genuine/OEM.

Place a catch pan under the radiator and open the drain by twisting it and pulling it out until it stops. Open the overflow reservoir cap to speed up draining. Close the radiator drain once the water stops draining Use spring clamp release pliers to release a hose from the oil-water heat exchanger below the oil filter housing. Replace the hose once the water stops draining.

You can skip the above if you put a large catch pan under the engine and allow the water to spill out of the thermostat housing, but it will make a big mess.

Just below the injection pump, remove the plastic water nipple from the water pump housing on the engine block using a 10 mm 1/4" drive socket and long (6 inch) extension. Carefully try to release the nipple from the thermostat by twisting it.

Clean the sealing surface on the engine with a rag.

Install the new thermostat and seal in the nipple. There are two tabs that hold the thermostat in place. If those are broken, remove any loose pieces and use a loop of string or wire to hold the thermostat in from the open end. The string or wire will be removed once the nipple is secured in place with the screws. Do not overtighten the screws.
Yep, follow the above steps, it doesn't get much easier.
Oh, one thing. I recommend an OEM stat. I've tried a few others and so far haven't been happy with any except 1 out of 2 Wahler (which isn't good average). The OEM ones are about the only ones that work with the clips/tabs in the coolant flange. They aren't neccessary, but do make it a bit easier.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 10:56   #4
Oleolson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrews View Post
It's very easy. Get a new thermostat with o-ring, preferably genuine/OEM.

Place a catch pan under the radiator and open the drain by twisting it and pulling it out until it stops. Open the overflow reservoir cap to speed up draining. Close the radiator drain once the water stops draining Use spring clamp release pliers to release a hose from the oil-water heat exchanger below the oil filter housing. Replace the hose once the water stops draining.

You can skip the above if you put a large catch pan under the engine and allow the water to spill out of the thermostat housing, but it will make a big mess.

Just below the injection pump, remove the plastic water nipple from the water pump housing on the engine block using a 10 mm 1/4" drive socket and long (6 inch) extension. Carefully try to release the nipple from the thermostat by twisting it.

Clean the sealing surface on the engine with a rag.

Install the new thermostat and seal in the nipple. There are two tabs that hold the thermostat in place. If those are broken, remove any loose pieces and use a loop of string or wire to hold the thermostat in from the open end. The string or wire will be removed once the nipple is secured in place with the screws. Do not overtighten the screws.
------------------------------------------------------------------
When you say seal in the nipple, what type of sealint should I use?

Thanks, I take a look and see if I can figure that out, would be really nice if you new of a video...I could watch...anyway I'll take a look..Thanks!
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 10:57   #5
Oleolson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettawreck View Post
Yep, follow the above steps, it doesn't get much easier.
Oh, one thing. I recommend an OEM stat. I've tried a few others and so far haven't been happy with any except 1 out of 2 Wahler (which isn't good average). The OEM ones are about the only ones that work with the clips/tabs in the coolant flange. They aren't neccessary, but do make it a bit easier.

OK...thanks for the Tip!
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 17:35   #6
jcrews
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It's just a rubber o ring that comes with the thermostat.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 20:08   #7
DieselOx
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Make sure the o ring is outside the t stat, under the housing.mine stock to the block and I thought thats where it went, took days to finally figure out.

Also, got my stat from napa, made in france, fit the clips, 17 bucks, works great.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 06:20   #8
jettawreck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselOx View Post
Make sure the o ring is outside the t stat, under the housing.mine stock to the block and I thought thats where it went, took days to finally figure out.

Also, got my stat from napa, made in france, fit the clips, 17 bucks, works great.
That's interesting. The one I got from NAPA was a US made Stant brand (didn't fit the clips) and it was "rated" at 195F but I had to remove it as it was running up over 205 (and climbing, even with the cabin blower fan running full tilt) in the warmer 60* temps.
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2001 Jetta TDI GLS Silver-current driver (salvage)permanently vented-Panzer Plate-Sprint 520s-ScanGauge-CheckTemp III-ZeroStart heater-CAT 2 filter
2003 Jetta GLS Black w/leather (New Project Car) fixer-upper w/broken TB
2004 Cadillac SLS (wife's)
1999 GMC Suburban (It's MN-you need one)
197? Shibura 2cyl diesel 4WD tractor-loader/brushhog (very handy unit)
196? International TD340 Dozer-w/Drott 4-in-1 bucket/back ripper attachment
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 08:58   #9
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G12++ (or G12) is $21 at the dealership for 4L concentrate. Mix about 60/40 with distilled water to make 6 L.
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