Knock/Pop When I Brake - Page 3

DPM · March 29th, 2012, 23:28

might be worth taking the wheels off again and looking *closely* at th brak pads. I've seen damaged and broken pad fittings ( antirattle springs and clips) causing the pad to catch and release slightly.

If it does it once going forwards, will it then make a similar noise once in reverse?

Airstream · March 30th, 2012, 09:18

Welp I don't believe its the plate. I took it off this morning and still had a clunk as I drove around the block. It wasn't as strong, but it was still there. It is louder st certain times than others so that doesn't mean anything. I set my torque wrench to 30 lb ft of torque and stripped one, maybe two of the rivet nuts. Those things really tick me off. The rear side rivetnuts never can be tightened down to even 30 lb ft and I shouldn't have tried this morning. Its connected to the distance from the control arm and the plate, its too great on mine and puts too much stress if torqued down too much. I may call dieselgeek about it.

Otherwise back to square one. Maybe it is the brakes. The only reason I say that is because the PO mentioned he changed the brake pads recently and he wasn't the most handy guy. I didn't really notice much about them, but there was a little play in the front right that I noticed that perhaps it could move forward away from the rotor. But then again if the pad is gripping the rotor how could the pad simultaneously shift forward? I could see the caliper if it wasn't tight but mine definitely are. Could he have put incorrect pads on?

DPM, I have never heard it in reverse, but I usually don't brake that hard when coming to a reverse stop. I also never hear it on acceleration.

Thanks for the help. Feel free to give up on this. I wish we had a Memphis guru...

eb2143 · March 30th, 2012, 10:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airstream

I set my torque wrench to 30 lb ft of torque and stripped one, maybe two of the rivet nuts. Those things really tick me off. The rear side rivetnuts never can be tightened down to even 30 lb ft and I shouldn't have tried this morning.

Yikes, I've torqued them to 35 ft-lbs for 6 years without issues (btw, 35 ft-lbs is DG's number).

I would take the brakes apart. I had to do this recently with an odd noise. I inspected them, but the problem (a small pebble wedged against the pad and carrier) didn't present itself until I actually took them apart.

Airstream · March 30th, 2012, 10:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by eb2143

Yikes, I've torqued them to 35 ft-lbs for 6 years without issues (btw, 35 ft-lbs is DG's number).

Oh I know, that is the thing that frustrates me. I am willing to concede that my control arms may be a little tweaked or banged up, but I would not be able to torque those rear-wing nuts more than about 20 to 25 lbs. Thats why I need to call them, I feel the rivet-nuts I received may be subpar.

When I took the wheels off last time I dismantled the right brake and made sure the caliper was tight. That's when I noticed the pad, but I may do it once again. I think you are right. I would take it in to a shop around here, but I think their guess is as good as mine...

Shawnz · March 31st, 2012, 20:19

My car has done the same as long as I owned it. I replaced the brakes and it got a lot better. I'm convinced I have parts missing (brake hardware / clips and the pads are shifting or something). Anyone have an exploded parts diagram of the front brakes?

iantyler · March 31st, 2012, 22:37

Check the rear bolts for the LCA. Retorque them

03CharcoalJettaTDI · April 1st, 2012, 16:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airstream

CharcoalJetta where at in Nashville are you? How long have you owned? I am moving back in a few months.

Ive owned for about 2.5 years. Im in Goodlettsville, but usually drive up to Paramedick in Frankfort, KY for all of my repair needs. I was up there in mid Jan for the basics and then about a month ago a similar noise that your hearing started for me as well. Im not to mechanically inclined so right now Im kinda of just hoping its nothing serious and driving with it untill I can get back up there again. I really hate doing this but I dont feel like taking it to a Goodyear type place either.

VDUB TECH · April 2nd, 2012, 18:32

My money would be on the slider bushings in the calipers.More and more mk4s doing it.Slider bushings are cheap too.

BlownBusa · April 2nd, 2012, 19:43

Had one pretty close to yours, turned out to be trans mount under the air cleaner. Grab the vacuum pump (on a cool engine of course

) and pull/push with a good amount of force. Does the engine move? If so, it's shot. I too did the dog mount first but nope...

Airstream · April 3rd, 2012, 09:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03CharcoalJettaTDI

Ive owned for about 2.5 years. Im in Goodlettsville, but usually drive up to Paramedick in Frankfort, KY for all of my repair needs. I was up there in mid Jan for the basics and then about a month ago a similar noise that your hearing started for me as well. Im not to mechanically inclined so right now Im kinda of just hoping its nothing serious and driving with it untill I can get back up there again. I really hate doing this but I dont feel like taking it to a Goodyear type place either.

My parents live up in Goodlettsville area, I will be closer to downtown when we move over. If I can't find it in the next couple of weeks I will let the Sears guys give me their best guess when they rotate my tires.

Quote:

My money would be on the slider bushings in the calipers.More and more mk4s doing it.Slider bushings are cheap too.

In all honesty, I have never heard of these, and couldn't find hardly anything under that in a search. Could you explain more, and also a place to buy them? Someone mentioned replacing the brakes made theirs go away?

Quote:

Had one pretty close to yours, turned out to be trans mount under the air cleaner. Grab the vacuum pump (on a cool engine of course ) and pull/push with a good amount of force. Does the engine move? If so, it's shot. I too did the dog mount first but nope...

Will do. That is a good check regardless.

Got Bearings? · April 3rd, 2012, 14:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airstream

In all honesty, I have never heard of these, and couldn't find hardly anything under that in a search. Could you explain more, and also a place to buy them? Someone mentioned replacing the brakes made theirs go away?
.

Guide (bushing) - http://www.idparts.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=2676

Guide pin - http://www.idparts.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=2196

Airstream · April 3rd, 2012, 14:55

Huh. Now I am a little confused. I am familiar with those items just linked; but don't see how that could be that big of a clunk. Mine are nice and torqued. I cant imagine that contributing to a loud clunk. I don't think the caliper can move, mine are definitely secured.

eb2143 · April 3rd, 2012, 21:31

Quote:

I don't think the caliper can move, mine are definitely secured

A floating caliper should move every time you step on the brakes. That's what the slides are for. I could see the caliper making a pop if they were binding.

Got Bearings? · April 4th, 2012, 09:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airstream

Huh. Now I am a little confused. I am familiar with those items just linked; but don't see how that could be that big of a clunk. Mine are nice and torqued. I cant imagine that contributing to a loud clunk. I don't think the caliper can move, mine are definitely secured.

My understanding on how brakes work is that if you don't have pistons of BOTH sides of the caliper, the caliper must "float" so it applies pressure to both sides of the rotor.

The guide pins i linked allow the caliper to float. While it is firmly attached to the carrier, it still moves side to side. If you're still not convinced, remove the the pads, reinstall the caliper and push/pull on the caliper. It WILL move.

Jettascuba · April 4th, 2012, 10:37

but can the caliper really move to and fro with the pads on? Yes, I know it moves slightly when applying brakes, but most of the time it is fairly tight, kept as such by the piston. Also can't see how it can make a clunk.