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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old September 10th, 2012, 12:56   #31
JFettig
 
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same as Fix_Until_Broke
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...99&postcount=9
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Old September 11th, 2012, 13:58   #32
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2.5 tdi Transporte T4 van:




v6 tdi 180Bhp:


1.9VE Tdi:

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Old September 11th, 2012, 14:58   #33
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Focus!!!
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Old September 14th, 2012, 16:08   #34
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Wow those are some terrible pictures.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 04:40   #35
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Hello guys.
There some pics off my ALH head.









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Old September 16th, 2012, 04:41   #36
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and more...





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Old September 16th, 2012, 07:07   #37
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We do our share of porting.

The profile pics that fettig and FUB show are similar to what we make. We do not go as radically close to the water jacket at FUB's picture shows. But as those pictures indicate, you can't see most of the critical modifications unless you cut the thing apart.

Every time we have shown porting pics, someone always comes out and says how we did it wrong... but here is what we do, based on our goals.

There is a problem with the intake port, as we do not agree with the right angle at the apex of the swirl chamber going into the bowl under the valve. If the head is going to crack, and a hard-driven engine is more prone, it will crack into the water jacket at the intake port beginning at that right angle. We round out that corner... carefully. We make about a 3/8" radius.

We remove material at the inside radius of the exhaust. Some who do porting feel that the exhaust gases aren't affected by that corner. We disagree. That is exactly where the bottle neck is. You have to be careful removing too much metal around the valve guide on the exterior radius of the exhaust port, or you will have a very poorly supported valve guide with a greatly reduced heat transfer area. Exposing more of the exhaust guide also creates a heat absorption in the guide, which is a negative effect. So, removing metal from the opposite side of the bottleneck is a good idea. Also, if you make comparisons to the later exhaust ports, say in the BRM and CBEA, VW has taken steps to smooth and open up that inside corner. So, what we have been doing on the inside radius is vindicated.

Between the ALH and the AHU, there is a major difference in location of a water jacket. We found out early when practicing on AHU cylinder heads. If you match the port to the exhaust manifold and go straight back on the head gasket side, you will break into the water jacket. Basically, we match the port opening to the exhaust manifold, then angle up and over the water jacket. We remove only a little material over the water jacket at that point.

Also for both ALH and AHU, you have to watch out for the head bolt holes in the exhaust. If you were to grind straight back from a line that matched the exhaust manifold, you will break into the head bolt holes. We believe it is good practice to match the port opening size, but not very good when you break into a head bolt hole...angle your cut around the bolt hole.

On the intake, we open up the bowl and smooth the angles going back from the swirl chamber. If you think there is much room in the intake runner to remove metal, just feel the web between the two center intake ports. It's very thin.

For about 3 inches, the intake only gets smoothed up with very little material removed. We do not build a full race head, so we do not remove the swirl chamber. A swirl chamber cannot work unless there is turbulence, so some expectation of flow loss is mandatory, with the payoff that you are going to make a cylinder head that will work efficiently when cruising. That is our opinion.
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Last edited by Franko6; September 16th, 2012 at 07:19.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 07:20   #38
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Thanks for the post Frank, can you outline where the waterjacket is on an AHU head with a pic maybe? I feel like I went a little large based on what you say about the AHU.
If I had to guess, I'm guessing you are outlining the top side of the port in this pic where it is outlined in red? http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/head4mod.jpg
Also, where do you put that 3/8" radius? If its where I'm thinking, it would hurt flow, but I'll let you show us where it is. It isn't right in the center where this pic is focused is it?
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Jet...ported_-_r.JPG
The external corner or internal corner?
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Old September 16th, 2012, 18:55   #39
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The right angle of the intake port should be rounded with a 3/8" radius.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 19:05   #40
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I am guessing you mean 3/8 diameter?
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Last edited by JFettig; September 16th, 2012 at 19:12.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 19:17   #41
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I found out first-hand how close the water jacket is to the exhaust port, however mine was on a 1.6td head. Be careful!
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Old September 16th, 2012, 20:08   #42
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Sorry the picture didn't come out very good...

We use a 3/8" sanding drum on a die grinder. Work the right angle until it's smooth.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 20:11   #43
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2footbraker,

Yeah, you know what I mean... The older heads are a bit rougher on the castings and more variance. The good thing is that you can probe those water jackets to see how far you want to go.

If I find $1200 burning a hole in my pocket, there is an ultrasonic depth gauge that you can accurately determine wall thickness. So far, the money is still in my pocket.
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Old September 17th, 2012, 14:12   #44
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Franko, Thanks for the thoughtful explanation.
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Old September 18th, 2012, 07:26   #45
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Does anyone have any volumetric efficiency figures for these heads or at least some direction in figuring it out?

I'm looking for volumetric efficiency over the rpm range.
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