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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old August 24th, 2017, 19:14   #511
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My mistake.I was meaning to suggest using a gtb2260vk as the LP turbo when combined with the current HP turbo. Sorry for the confusion
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Old August 24th, 2017, 22:06   #512
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Also in terms of transient response I was meaning to refer to between stages.

I'll have to make a video of both boost readings on my daily driver.Once the oil is up to operating temperature both turbo's should follow each other if looking for a responsive daily driver compound setup.

Between stage boost should be ideally half of what intake manifold pressure is at all times.
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Old August 24th, 2017, 23:14   #513
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Andy2, you made me meditate since you writed this as I never seen a double vnt compound.
Do you have an example to help me to figure out how it could work ?
Two vnt vanes to regulate in parallel isn't too hard to drive for the N75 ?
Something like gtc1549 with 2260vk could have an awesome trancience response for the power it could make

Edit: sorry I didn't see your last reply

Last edited by FRtdilover; August 24th, 2017 at 23:16.
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Old September 10th, 2017, 16:01   #514
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I put a compound gauge on the LP Compressor and moved the LP Exhaust to the green needle on the 50 psi dual gauge and drove it around today.

The short summary is that the 0-50 psi Hewitt Industries gauge that I'm running is damaged on the Red needle (positive offset and I think there's a slope issue as well) and there may be a slight negative offset on the green needle - so any conclusions/comments that I've made regarding the sizing of the two turbos should be promptly ignored.

There is not a vacuum on the HP inlet, but when you're into the boost and let off the throttle the LP boost will rise 2-3 psi as the vanes open and you really need to get into it to get the LP boost up over a couple psi.

I'm going to pull all the gauges out, connect them together and correlate them to a known reference at a few different pressures before making any "big" decisions on the setup.
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Old September 17th, 2017, 01:47   #515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
I put a compound gauge on the LP Compressor and moved the LP Exhaust to the green needle on the 50 psi dual gauge and drove it around today.

The short summary is that the 0-50 psi Hewitt Industries gauge that I'm running is damaged on the Red needle (positive offset and I think there's a slope issue as well) and there may be a slight negative offset on the green needle .
how come it's damaged ?(EGT?)
and do you use motor oil in the tube from exhaust to gauge ?
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Old September 17th, 2017, 06:11   #516
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how come it's damaged ?(EGT?)
and do you use motor oil in the tube from exhaust to gauge ?
During some tuning experiments with the 1444 as a single, I inadvertently over pressurized it.

I've tried various damping methods but not motor oil, I'll give that a shot sometime. Thanks for the tip!
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Old March 3rd, 2018, 19:13   #517
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Well, I've got ~20k miles on the compound turbo setup and have run into my first issue with it. Anytime you start doing things non-factory, you run the risk of something failing that you build/did/asembled, etc.

I had an instance about a month ago where the engine wouldn't crank over when you turned the key. The first attempt it would just barely engage the starter then nothing. No click of the starter, just the little relays that engage/disengage when you turn the key from run to crank. I did notice a bit of a burning plastic smell, but couldn't find anything amiss

I opened the hood, rummaged my hand down by the starter a couple times and it finally started when I hit the key. I knew I should have looked into it a bit more (at all...) and knew it would come back and bite me because I didn't fix anything . Today it happened twice while out running errands - same thing. One thing I noticed was that the -6 braided stainless hose from the oil filter housing to the turbos was warm when I grabbed it. I didn't think much of it since the oil was warm, but this was a clue. The hose ran in a big arc from the front of the engine to the back and I didn't take enough care to look at where it contacted.

So I dug into it today and found that the braided oil hose was arcing/shorting out on the trans mount bolt and one of the brake lines off the master cylinder/abs module. Luckly I didn't drive a long way because at the brake line, the hose was leaking a decent stream of oil when the engine was running.

I'll end up replacing the hose, but have temporarily put a tube splice in and have isolated the hose so it doesn't touch any more, but I still have not figured out why this hose was looking for ground when the starter is engaged? The main engine ground from the upper transmission/block bolt to the battery is solid, looks good, etc. I looked around for other chafed wires - specifically the starter solenoid wire, but didn't see any.

We're not done with this yet - Any thoughts/ideas are welcomed.










There was also a significant groove worn in the brake booster diaphragm cover from the hose. No significant wear on the hose - that stuff is tough!

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Old March 4th, 2018, 00:02   #518
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Give the ground cable from the engine to the body (and on to the battery negative) a good hard yank, bet it comes apart.
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Old March 4th, 2018, 06:27   #519
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Good idea - Did that on both ends and it didn't come apart.

I'm going to look a bit closer at the starter solenoid wiring, maybe pull the battery/tray out . The more I think about it, the more sense it makes that it has to be something in that circuit. It started at -10F just a few weeks ago and cranked over nice and strong. It wouldn't do that grounding through incidental contact on a braided hose.
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Old March 4th, 2018, 08:01   #520
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Holy crap, how much hp does that rig make?
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Old March 4th, 2018, 08:55   #521
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Not a lot - maybe 175 or so? Have not had it on the dyno since the twins went on, nor have I done anything with the tuning/fuel delivery. Just keeping it running for the last few years while I finish my Roadmaster/Duramax project.
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Old March 4th, 2018, 15:51   #522
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I pulled the battery out

Removed the ground wire from the block - still good
Followed the braided hose from one end to the other looking at anything even close to touching it - didn't see anything
Inspected the starter solenoid wire from the starter until it goes into the bundle behind the battery - no signs of damage

Still have not found/fixed what's causing it to occasionally not start
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Old March 4th, 2018, 18:12   #523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
Good idea - Did that on both ends and it didn't come apart.

I'm going to look a bit closer at the starter solenoid wiring, maybe pull the battery/tray out . The more I think about it, the more sense it makes that it has to be something in that circuit. It started at -10F just a few weeks ago and cranked over nice and strong. It wouldn't do that grounding through incidental contact on a braided hose.
Only time the engine sees a lot of potential above the chassis is when cranking, for the oil feed to arc to the chassis it needs to be ground side troubles, even if it isn't the cause of the no-crank (though there's a good chance that it is)

Same as engines burning off throttle cables. The starter ground side current's finding an easier path than through the wire.

ETA: best bet is under the battery tray, it goes bare where they crimped a flag terminal on to ground the chassis, this is where it flexes when the engine moves.
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Old April 12th, 2018, 16:23   #524
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My 03 Jetta has ~170k miles on it and has served me very well over the last 8 years, but it's starting to show it's age and need some work

Shocks/Struts/Mounts - Original and tired
Ball Joints - Loose
Tie-Rod Ends - Loose
Motor Mounts - vibrates and moves a lot
Headlights - really hazy
Antenna base - radio all fuzzy most of the time
Cabin Fan motor - makes noise when below ~10F

I figured I'd probably put springs in it while the suspension was apart.

By the time I'm done with all of the above I'll have ~$1500 and 2-3 full days in it.

I spent this last weekend doing my research and putting my parts lists together at various vendors, but have not ordered anything yet.

So, on my way home tonight from work, crusing along at ~50 MPH in 5th and go from 25% throttle to ~35% throttle and it accelerates normally for about a second and then stops accelerating....wierd....back off the throttle and get back into it and it accelerates but definately has a different "note" to the engine.

Pull into a parking lot under a light, white-ish smoke coming out the exhaust, engine running on 3 cylinders shaking like hell, remove the oil fill cap while the engine is running and a geyser of smokey mist shoots all the way to the hood and pushes my hand out of the way. Put the cap back on, close the hood and get back in the car. I'm 8 miles from home at this point - may as well go for it.

It was a calm night with minimal wind so the car looked like it was on fire at stoplights it was smoking so much - sounded like a WRX when taking off from the lights on 3 cylinders .

Get it home, pull in the garage, rip it apart and find this in hole #3...


The bore looks spectacular in #3


There were some wierd marks on the cylinder walls of the other pistons as well - This is #2 - both sides of the bore. You can't feel anything in these areas, but it sure looks like the wristpin was sliding along the cylinder wall.



This is #4 - The rusty looking radial marks about halfway down the cylinder are in both #4 and #1.


They don't wipe off and you can't really feel them with your fingers at all - do the bores ever crack and seap water?

So, I need a piston at the minimum - most likely a set.
Stock ALH pistons? Coated? Deeper valve reliefs? Lower Compression?
May as well do rings and rod bearings as long as it's apart...
Do I put main bearings in?
Do I put aftermarket rods in?
There's really no cylinder wall damage - a few passes with a hone will clean it up (assuming there's no cracks or anything in it).
Should I pull the whole engine or try and do this "in car"?
Anything else I should do while it's apart?
Is it worth repairing?

Any thoughts as to why it cracked a piston? It's been a couple thousand miles since I pulled a trailer with it - it didn't run any differently before/after this, but it was definately a workout - sustained high loads and temps.

I would like to significantly improve the power in the 1000-2000 RPM range

Maybe I continue to look at new cars like I did a couple weeks ago...though I could do a lot to the Jetta with only a years worth of car payments....

So, back to the original question....Where do I stop?




I'll tell you when to stop. Stop towing with a little car. That's why God created Cummins pickups. Absolutely overheated it no doubt. Melted the piston. I personally believe in gauges on any powered up diesel unless you're just driving Miss Daisy. We have gauges on all our trucks and our TDI. I wouldn't rebuild. You have thermal damage in the whole motor. Find a good salvage yard TDI and pull the head. If it is pristine you're back on the road.
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Old April 12th, 2018, 17:55   #525
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I'll tell you when to stop. Stop towing with a little car. That's why God created Cummins pickups. Absolutely overheated it no doubt. Melted the piston. I personally believe in gauges on any powered up diesel unless you're just driving Miss Daisy. We have gauges on all our trucks and our TDI. I wouldn't rebuild. You have thermal damage in the whole motor. Find a good salvage yard TDI and pull the head. If it is pristine you're back on the road.
Might wanna read the thread first, just sayin...
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