Where to stop?

[john.jackson9213]

Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke

When pulling the trailer heavy it will run 1200F-1400F EGT's steady state - Light trailer will run ~1000F. I've done about 4000 miles of heavy trailer pulling and ~8000 miles of light trailer pulling. Self imposed 20 psi boost limit when pulling the trailer, the tunes run 24-26 psi max.

No drugs

Dynoed ~135HP/250ft-lbf with RC5, RC6 and TDTuning tune - I've been running the TDTuning tune for the last 9 months or so. I'm not suspecting the tune(s). MPG's have been good (typically low/mid 50's)

It's had a 17/22, PP502's, 11mm Pump, and the higher level tunes for most of 100k miles - the car/engine has 170k miles on it.

I don't think I have logs of the TDTuning timing, but I do have them for the RC tunes - they were line on line requested/actual, but I don't remember the numbers off hand.

I'd do all the work myself (always have). I do a rough alignment with a tape measure then drive to the alighment shop. I can do cylinder heads and engines, just don't have access to the alignment equipment.

One other thing I didn't mention is that the transmission has trouble downshifting into 4th - Have to go 5th, push toward 3rd then pull to 4th - works ok otherwise, but has been doing this for the last 6 months or so. Another $1500 or so for that with a limited slip and 3.17 R&P.

Even with all that it's still cheaper than a new car...

That last line tells the whole story. Cheaper than a new car.

BUT, is. cheaper the main issue for you? If it is, rebuild.

Good luck.

[Ski in NC]

When towing a heavy trailer, use a lower gear and let engine rev. If it takes say 80hp to pull the trailer, you are better off doing it at say 3200rpm than at 2400. Piston temp is lower with the higher revs.

[TDIJetta99]

Agreed.. I never hesitate to let the engine sit at 3500 pulling a heavy load.. It just seems happier that way...

[silverbox]

Sorry to hear about your motor troubles.
I vote that you fix the ALH, but partly for selfish reasons. You have been incredibly helpful and thorough in your experimentation, always sharing information on this forum. I would not want to see you leave the TDI forums.

[flee]

Besides, it's 'Fix Until Broke'... not 'Buy Until Broke'!

[Ben Dur]

in the classifieds theres someone breaking 5 engines for their cranks... everything but the cranks are up for sale and th prices are reasonable... if your just looking for some cheap parts. but with rc5, 6 and custom TDT id go with some upgrading personally...

if the car is paid for free and clear. Id fix it even if it means a personal loan. a couple grand in repairs and keeping a rainy day fund is alot cheaper than another car.

and alot more fun

[mech644]

Fix it and drive it. Although I am very much attracted to the new CR Golf. Your financial status is NOMB but for most people going into debt for a depreciating asset in these times is not so wise.
Only 170k, that car has lots of life left in it.

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Ok - lots of comments to address here...

All of the other things that the car needs (suspension and such) are definately needed and way beyond overdue. Then combining the engine repair/replacement now and everything associated with that, I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't "polishing a turd" here. The overwhelming consensus is that it should be fixed and I agree with that. This car has done everything I've ever asked of it, thousands of miles pulling trailer, my dependable daily transportation, excelllent mileage (52+ MPG average over lifetime). I know what this car is/is not and buying something new/used would start that learning curve over and besides that I like the car .

That said, now to decide how/what to repair this thing. It sure seems that lowering the compresion would help keep peak cylinder pressures and piston temps down. Lower compression will generally loose thermal efficiency but might prevent this from happening. ~18.5:1 would be about as low as I'd want to go to insure good starting in the winter. Any opinions on a thermal barrier on the tops of the pistons - Maybe keeping the 19.5:1 CR for good starting and a thermal barier would make the pistons live? I'm aiming to improve power in the 1000-2000 RPM range so this is the time to make any changes/improvements to support that.

I'm assuming that this failure was due to thermal stress on the pistons, most likely from towing and resultant operation at continuious high loads for hours on end. If I get it apart and find the oil squirter plugged on #3 pistion or some other evidence of another cause of the piston failure, I'll let everyone know. EMP's during the heavy trailer towing are equal to boost and IAT's are ~50F over ambient. A larger oil cooler would probably be a good idea (no oil temp gauge, but will be getting one).

My trusted mechanic is adamant that the block should be bored/trued up and that it's probably not round and would have trouble sealing the rings if it was just honed. I'm going to try and get a 3-4" micrometer and bore gauge to see if the cylinder is true enough to hone or not. Given the marks on cylinder 2 in particular it could be either way.

What about a complete engine swap? A PD150 and 6 speed from across the pond?

Are there any 16 valve motors that will more/less go in?

A CR without all the emissions stuff would be cool as well?



I guess all the statements I've made about "Well, it has not blow up yet" are no longer valid .

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Originally Posted by silverbox

Sorry to hear about your motor troubles.
I vote that you fix the ALH, but partly for selfish reasons. You have been incredibly helpful and thorough in your experimentation, always sharing information on this forum. I would not want to see you leave the TDI forums.

Thanks for the very kind words

Hopefully I can learn something from this and share it with the community as well.

[ArturCosta]

Those images bring me back bad memories.. still I have no regret of doing the rebuild.
I think I spent more less 2000€ but it was worth it. Now its been 40k kms after it and it runs really nice.

When this happen to me there where at least 3 other topics with same rebuild info.. maybe you should check them.

[Whitbread]

If bores measure up (use a GOOD dial bore gauge, measure multiple locations), put in a set of coated ASV's , rosten rods, and port the head. The rostens are very cheap insurance if you ask me at this point. You're already in there, why not? Then you never have to go in the engine again. You might as well go to fastenal and get some M10x80mm 12.9 capscrews and 3/8" grade 8 SAE washers to put in the for the main bolts. Torque to 53 ft/lbs with oil. Again, super cheap insurance.

Do a dingle berry hone on the cylinders, new rod bearings, new rings, pop pistons back in, swap out main bolts, and call it a day.

For the trans, get a 6 speed kit from ryan p especially since you tow. It's beyond worth the money as it will get you lower gears across the board with a taller freeway gear and 3X the strength for towing.

As others have said, fixing the car up is going to be wayyyy cheaper than buying new or newer used. Besides, can you really say it's treated you badly for what you've done to it?

[tothemax]

X2.... been there... bite the bullet & fix it.. .well worth it in the long run

Originally Posted by Whitbread

If bores measure up (use a GOOD dial bore gauge, measure multiple locations), put in a set of coated ASV's , rosten rods, and port the head. The rostens are very cheap insurance if you ask me at this point. You're already in there, why not? Then you never have to go in the engine again. You might as well go to fastenal and get some M10x80mm 12.9 capscrews and 3/8" grade 8 SAE washers to put in the for the main bolts. Torque to 53 ft/lbs with oil. Again, super cheap insurance.

Do a dingle berry hone on the cylinders, new rod bearings, new rings, pop pistons back in, swap out main bolts, and call it a day.

For the trans, get a 6 speed kit from ryan p especially since you tow. It's beyond worth the money as it will get you lower gears across the board with a taller freeway gear and 3X the strength for towing.

As others have said, fixing the car up is going to be wayyyy cheaper than buying new or newer used. Besides, can you really say it's treated you badly for what you've done to it?

[coalminer16]

I seem to remember on the towing thread a few of us warning you on the load while in 5th with your diff and 5th gear mod while on the WI speed limit. But I can relate as a fellow trailer puller coming from a family that does that as well with cars.

That said, builder up better so it can handle even more. I think I have read that it really isn't the heat so much as hot/cold/hot/cold that causes the cracks overtime. I am a voter for keeping it going as you already know your car. Getting a new one is expensive and there is other issues that always have to be worked on with a different car. Glad to see you are planning on fixing.

[kooyajerms]

FUB, I agree with silverbox, you're an asset and we would love to keep you.

You've got a way easier road to getting your car fixed, than I ever did. I sent my car to Ohio!!!

I'd never get a new vehicle I was happy with, with the amount of money I invested (yeah so I said invested, sooo!??!). So I kept going with the wagon after the runaway. I'm lovin' it.



My only other suggestion. Move on over to the GTB1756VK and help drop some of those EGT's.

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Any suggestions on the right tool to accurately measure the bores?

We have a tallyrand at work which would be perfect, but I'd get some "difficult to answer" questions if I brought my block in