Keystones!

Still have yet to receive mine as well.

Everyone who has paid me has one in the mail except for JC1992 as you did not give me your full address.



I apologize for the delays, but please keep in mind that I have absolutely zero free time right now while trying to move, working full time, and still trying to keep parts going out the door that people need. If anyone is ever concerned about anything they've ordered from me, I publicly post my phone number for a reason. That is the fastest way to get a hold of me if you have a question. At the current moment, there are times where I don't make it on here for days so don't rely on pm's or emails.

Can we pay via Paypal? I didn't see a Paypal address anywhere on the thread. Thanks.

I have yet to find anything in installing these, I am assuming you:
1. place the keystone in the opening where the pressure relief vailve goes (with the smaller tab pointing upward)
2. Then replace and tighten the caes pressure relief valve

Am I correct?


I know this is probably very simple but I dont want to screw anything up.

Also on A side note If anyone knows places to get a new / used case pressure relief valve body please let me know. Mine is broken.

DFIS has one but I was hoping t find one local or closer than 3 to 4 days shipping

Are these still available? If so how much for 5 shipped to the UK? Thanks, Sam
sent by tapatalk using dirty diesel power ...

Got my keystones!

Thanks Matt! Just wanted to let everybody else know I got mine, hope you get yours too!

I gott mine as well, thanks Matt. For those who have not, be patient, Matt has a lot going on.

kbrenny said:

I have yet to find anything in installing these, I am assuming you:
1. place the keystone in the opening where the pressure relief vailve goes (with the smaller tab pointing upward)
2. Then replace and tighten the caes pressure relief valve

Am I correct?


I know this is probably very simple but I dont want to screw anything up.

Also on A side note If anyone knows places to get a new / used case pressure relief valve body please let me know. Mine is broken.

DFIS has one but I was hoping t find one local or closer than 3 to 4 days shipping

Click to expand...

On a cool engine, I put a dab of vaseline on the bottom of the pressure relief valve, stick the keystone to it, and then screw it into the pump.

Thanks

car 54 said:

On a cool engine, I put a dab of vaseline on the bottom of the pressure relief valve, stick the keystone to it, and then screw it into the pump.

Click to expand...

Exactly my method!

I've had a pm from a member that felt his keystone was too tall and was being excessively squished upon install. I cut apart a pump and took measurements to draw up the keystone. I drew it for approx .020" of crush. Due to manufacturing tolerances, there's a chance that your relief valve passage may be shallower or deeper since it's just a drilled hole and not a critical tolerance in the pump. You should feel reisitance for the last 1/4 turn or a little less. If it bottoms out sooner, take a file or lightly touch the flat bottom to a grinder.

I received mine, also, thanks!

Two questions:

1. After installing, the pump should be bled by cracking the connection at the injectors and cranking until fuel squirts, right?

2. I bought mine with the idea that I'd do this in conjunction with some future maintenance on the pump. My power and MPGs are OK right now. I occasionally have a little smoke, but not often. I guess what I'm saying is that my pump seems to be doing OK even though I'm sure the valve is apart in there. Question: What benefits am I likely to see by installing now?

Thanks,
Mark

What's my price on 100 units? How many on a "sheet"? I could just pop them out of the sheet myself?

car54 said:

On a cool engine, I put a dab of vaseline on the bottom of the pressure relief valve, stick the keystone to it, and then screw it into the pump.

Click to expand...

Bumpity bump. So the orientation of the keystone does not matter? -- Just slap the flat surface of the keystone and center against the bottom of the valve? I'm a little mystified by the shape of the keystone if its orientation does not matter...? (I haven't removed the valve yet so it may be obvious once I look at it).

What are people using as far as socket to loosen the case valve? I don't want to modify one of my existing sockets with a dremmel, as I have seen recommended.

I've seen someone use this: http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ET...=1387111844&sr=1-2&keywords=gator+grip+socket

But I thought those were for repair-inept middle age men who saw the TV infomercial and decided they were going to be a little more handy around the house.

Bring it down and I'll toss it in for you, but it's easy to put in.

Here is how it sits, with a small dab of grease holding it in, so when you invert it, it doesn't fall out of the valve. When you screw the valve back in you'll feel some minor resistance at the end, but this is normal as the keystone is seating.



As to the wrench/socket, just use a 10mm open end wrench on the valve and another to turn it. It'll snap when it starts to move, but then comes out easily. I change the o-rings while it's out but have not on others and they never leaked. Piece of cake.

Abacus said:

Bring it down and I'll toss it in for you, but it's easy to put in.

Here is how it sits, with a small dab of grease holding it in, so when you invert it, it doesn't fall out of the valve. When you screw the valve back in you'll feel some minor resistance at the end, but this is normal as the keystone is seating.


As to the wrench/socket, just use a 10mm open end wrench on the valve and another to turn it. It'll snap when it starts to move, but then comes out easily. I change the o-rings while it's out but have not on others and they never leaked. Piece of cake.

Click to expand...

Perfect, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Glad the helped out. I took those just to post on here to help people out since the question has come up a few times.

Just make sure the area around the valve is clean before you take it out. I hit mine with a small wire brush and then blow it clear with the carb/brake cleaner.

Any chance you'll make another run of these? I have tried to contact you multiple times through PM, but no response in the past year.

My address was in my original paypal payment as well as in a PM I sent you. I can send another payment if need be.

Thanks

Yes I just found out about this and need on also.

In all of my reading I also came across a mention of tagging it with a weldor. I may try that.

I would take a couple too if you are still willing to make them and ship out.

I don't want to step on anyone's toes, but know Matt is quite busy and may not have time to have more Keystones made.

I have two remaining but need them for my own IP's. I was asked to take the dimensions so they could make their own, and decided it'd be good to post them so people can make their own Keystones if they need to. They appear to be made from just regular steel.

With some steel, calipers, and a sander, it would be pretty easy to make one on your own.

Click on the picture to enlarge. The Keystone shown below is also dimensionally correct.

Most helpful, thanks Abacus!