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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old October 25th, 2011, 21:03   #1
bowelder
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Default thermostat replacement ALH

after looking through the TDI 101 how to's, I need to ask a question. What are some of your tips about changing the thermostat and housing on a 2000 Golf TDI?


thanks
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Old October 25th, 2011, 21:04   #2
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A4 thermostat change How-To
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Old October 26th, 2011, 03:01   #3
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Biggest tip is to only use an OEM thermostat. Most of the aftermarket ones won't clip into the thermostat housing. Boraparts carries the oem thermostat. Makes the job so much easier.
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Old October 26th, 2011, 04:27   #4
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Yeah, only use OEM from Volkswagen (or whomever can get you one) and a new housing. Clip the new stat on to the housing after installing the o-ring. Super easy job, just 2 screws.

Also, only use the spring-type hose clamp (you can reuse them), as these not only provide constant uniform tension on the hose, but cannot crush the plastic nipple. The hoses themselves generally last forever unless they get contaminated with fuel or oil from a leak or something.
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Old October 26th, 2011, 04:53   #5
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For the relative cost of the new housing, I agree with others on getting a new one. If you want to preserve the integrity of the original, use or make a hook about 8 inches long to hook the loop on the thermostat and pull that as you rock the housing free. Then you will have a good spare with the pins intact for next time...
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Old October 26th, 2011, 06:09   #6
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Twice I dropped the lower bolt that holds the housing in place and it fell down into a hard-to-get-to place. The second time I had to go buy one of those magnetic fish things to get it out. So, hang on to that one!
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Old October 26th, 2011, 17:48   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wksg View Post
Twice I dropped the lower bolt that holds the housing in place and it fell down into a hard-to-get-to place. The second time I had to go buy one of those magnetic fish things to get it out. So, hang on to that one!
Boy do I know that one! I had to use a camera tube to see the bolt to fish it out. I had to remove the A/C and one alternator bolt to nudge the alternator forward to get to it. I did not want to take the chance that the bolt would possibly touch the alternator windings and cause problems down the road. Took 3 hours for a 20 minute job. This was on my bug. My golf was easier.
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Old October 27th, 2011, 06:40   #8
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Yeah, i think i dropped that bolt as well, very frustrating. Plan for that and the mess.

If you plan, to change to coolant, keep in mind you'll have a hard time draining it if the thermostat is cold so you might as well remove it and then drain
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Old October 27th, 2011, 15:10   #9
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I take a small scrap of paper and wrap it around the bolt head and then shove the bolt into the 10MM socket. Then I use a small extension and get the bolt started. When you pull out the socket the paper falls or sometimes stays in the socket. You can blow it away with compressed air.

A small magnet in your socket also works really well.
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Old October 27th, 2011, 15:28   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wksg View Post
I had to go buy one of those magnetic fish things to get it out.
A magnet on an extendable stick should be one of the first tools one ever gets... (also good for finding plastered-over drywall screws when hunting for studs in the wall...)
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A small magnet in your socket also works really well.
Good idea... I've used that magnet-on-a-stick mentioned above to get the bolts started... it holds the bolt through enough turns to get the threads meshing...

bowelder: make sure to clean the sealing surface on the block really well with a plastic Brillo-type pad... if there are too many surface irregularities, the new thermostat and "O" ring will leak...

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Old October 27th, 2011, 15:42   #11
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I replaced my thermostat on my 02 jetta this spring and was able to save the old thermostat housing clips. None of them broke when removing the old thermostat, but since I had already purchased the new housing I put that in for good measure.

If you're careful and dont just yank the thermostat out I dont see why the clips would break.
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Old October 28th, 2011, 04:42   #12
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Because the o-ring sticks to the iron block, holding the thermostat behind it, that's why. I never even bother to try and save the plastic housing anyways, as once they have been tightened, heat cycled many times, and loosened, the likelihood of a leak is just too great.

I have assembled thermostat "assemblies" all ready to go for all the more popular VAG engines sitting in baggies on the shelf here.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 07:21   #13
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Default Thermostat change observations

Just changed the stat last night, here are my observations:
1. Difficult to get a wire to hook onto the thermostat since you can't see it
2. My bolts also had 5mm allen heads so with the proper allen key it's a tight fit & may help preventing losing the bolts
3. Despite the inaccuracy of the temp gauge, before the change it only went up 1/4-1/3 of the way, & after it goes to 1/2 & stays there.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 08:19   #14
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Yup, get a long ball-head allen key/socket & new bolts to go with your new housing. Overall, it's not a bad job.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 08:20   #15
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Yeah, ALH is cake... wait until all the CBEA/CJAA engines need them.
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