Quantity Adjustor Cleaned!

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
My Car has been acting up for quite some time, misfiring, occasional engine stalling, and QA codes maybe once per week. I was dreading the cost of a new Injector Pump.

Last wednesday it dies 5 times on my way to work. Mostly between shifts. Cycle the key, and it would fire right up. QA code every time it dies.

I decided it was undriveable, and time to do something. I figure I have nothing to lose by cleaning the QA, worse case I buy a new IP. The other option is to buy a new IP straightaway.

I Pulled the QA off the Engine, disassembled it down to empty case with the shaft still in it, Cleaned it up nice, put it back together. Car now runs like a top. Much Better throttle response. Overall power is about the same, but the misfireing is gone. :)

Some General Thoughts/Observations on the process:

1. It was Dirty in there. I expected fairly clean, with a bit of surface dirt. there were large quantitys of crud. I went through almost a box of Qtips. Between the Electromagnet and shaft there was about 1/10 of an inch of hard Crud that I had to scrape aggresively with a screwdriver to remove. There was quite a bit of what looks like Filter Media, perhaps someone neglected the filter in this pumps life??

2. this job has two distinct components. Mechanical, & Soldering. the Mechanical part of taking it apart is no more difficult than say, rebuilding a Briggs & Stratton Carb. The Soldering, was outside my Comfort zone, so I had a Friend do that part.

3. Adjusting this thing after getting it back on the car was tricky. There are 2 adjustments I had to make, to get it to run correctly. 1 was what we refer to as the Hammer mod. The other is getting the Register between the QA shaft and the sensor on top correct. Of course, they both affect each other.

I have several Pictures I took along the way, for purposes of putting it back together. I May Post a couple, along with a couple gotcha points that I Found, that may help others who want to try it.

For now I am excited to have my car running well again!
 

Keith_J

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2007
Location
West
TDI
2000 Jetta MT
Oh yes, PLEASE post pictures! Have you been running bio or blends?

How did you align the QA housing with the pump body? JB Weld?
 

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
List of Gotcha's.

1. the sensor "Arm" is taper locked to the adjustor shaft. take the Torx bolt out of the top, and use a 10 mm wrench on the hex to twist it. it will sound like you broke it. I thought I did. Make sure you twist it so as not to break the "Wiper" I would also mark the location as best you can. I thought I did, but was not close enough to make it run right.

2. the wires come up the side, and are spot welded to the terminals on the board. I Used a side cuts to break the weld. Solder was used to rejoin these. there is no need to mark which wire goes where, they come through the side of the pump in the same order they get hooked up.

3. there are 2 small t8 (Copper? Soft!!!!) screws that attach the electromagnets wires to the circuit board. THESE ARE LEFT HANDED SCREWS!My guess is the screws that hold the Temp sensor are steel, and the same size, so they made the copper ones left handed, so you cannot get them in the wrong place.

I May add more as I think about it more....
 

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
Keith, I run straight D2, but I bought the pump as "good, working used Pump", about 30K miles ago, so I cannot comment on whay fuel was used before me.

A quick rundown on on-Car adjustments.

Install the QA as close is I could with the scribe marks I made on removal.

No Start.

Adjusted the QA Right.

Will start, but will not idle.

Adjusted QA right some more.

Starts. Idles. Awesome!

Check IQ with Vagcam. 12.5

Adjust pump right some more.

Check IQ: 4. Excellent.

Now I am getting intermittent Quantity Adjuster lower limit reached code. Nuts.

take the cover off, Figure if QA is low, I need to break the taper, and turn the sensor clockwise, to make it read higher.

Car starts, now the QA code is constant, cannot clear it. will not hardly idle now. IQ reading 8

If it is worse, perhaps adjusting the other way would help.

Break the taper, adjust the wiper the other way.

Starts, no QA code, but idle is terrible, IQ reading 0 to .5

Hammer mod back to the left.

IQ 4.5, car runs great, no codes.

That was the steps I used, I am very happy with the results.

On another note, before all of this I was getting the QA low limit reached code. Could I have simply adjusted the wiper on the QA sensor back to take care of it?? I think so, but the QA certainly needed cleaning anyway.
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
Wow! Great work! Thanks for the photos:D

What type of solder did you use?
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
I've got an article I'm suppose to post that describes making that arm adjustment using a voltage measurement with VCDS. (Before and after)

Did the QA feel bad before cleaning? I'm wondering if it'll feel fine but when the power is put to it the metal debris stiffens up.
 

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
It felt, looked, and acted just like it should. Nice and smooth rotation from stop to stop. I would never believe the thing was that nasty, until I got the circuit board off. Seeing is believing!
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
I've got an article I'm suppose to post that describes making that arm adjustment using a voltage measurement with VCDS. (Before and after)

Did the QA feel bad before cleaning? I'm wondering if it'll feel fine but when the power is put to it the metal debris stiffens up.
Please enlighten us, when you get a chance.

I would guess your target voltages are the same one in Group 19? The sweep upon power up?
 
Last edited:

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
Just another of the many reasons I love this Forum! People actually get off their duffs, and take apart/fix/learn about things that arean't really supposed to be repaired and share for all of us to enjoy. Keep up the fantastic work fellas!
 

Kyle!

Active member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Location
Bolton, UK
TDI
Golf Mk4 TDi 90 (Now 136) AGR
im looking to do this very soon.. what size sockets did you use to remove the QA from the pump?

I've managed to undo 3 of them but the hex bolt i just cant get a socket on at all... i think the walls on the socket are too thick perhaps???

Thanks
Kyle!
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
im looking to do this very soon.. what size sockets did you use to remove the QA from the pump?

I've managed to undo 3 of them but the hex bolt i just cant get a socket on at all... i think the walls on the socket are too thick perhaps???

Thanks
Kyle!
It's not a hex. You need a triangular socket. You can grind every other flat on a 7mm six point socket to make one.

Read up on the hammer mod BEFORE removing the QA.
 

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
Is it possible to swap that ball studded shaft after taking it all apart ?

Not sure. The part inside the case and the part outside the case are both too big to pass through the hole, so the shaft has to be 2 peices. Even if you did get it apart, I am not sure how you would get it back together "in time".

I did not need to remove it for simple cleaning.....
 

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
im looking to do this very soon.. what size sockets did you use to remove the QA from the pump?

I've managed to undo 3 of them but the hex bolt i just cant get a socket on at all... i think the walls on the socket are too thick perhaps???

Thanks
Kyle!

Metalnerd sells a tool to remove this security bolt. Also, if you are going to remove the wires from the side of the QA, there is another triangle bolt there, but it is a Different size from the other. Luckily my triangle bolt was missing, but I had planned on drilling the head out. I got a new bolt with a Phillips head down at the hardware store. the other three bolts take a Torx bit. I think the bolt is an M4. I had to cut the hardware store bolt down to make the length work.
 

DanG144

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Location
Chapin, South Carolina, USA
TDI
2005 A4 Jetta 5spd
Another option for the odd bolt heads is to take a Dremel tool and cut a screw slot in the head. Then use an impact driver (commonly used on motorcyles) to remove the bolts.

This is what I have done, and it worked. I did scar the edges of the inset that the bolt was in while doing this.

I did buy Metalnerd's socket as soon as I could, and use it now.

http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm part Number mn3001.
 

saucer

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2010
Location
Fayetteville, AR
TDI
2015 Passat SE
Just got mine off and am alarmed at the amount of metal shavings collected around a few of the screws and the portal between the "top" of the QA and the "bottom" where it connects with the rest of the pump. I'm not familiar with most of the terminology used in this read, so this might be a bit tricky, but the pics and tips help - thanks so much to OP!

My QA looks fairly clean, but I'm in the same boat as OP, the pump is definitely dying: QA codes in VCDS, very loud pump, and the car is idling this crap and dying at intersections.

I'm 99% sure I'll have to order a "new" one or have this one rebuilt so I figured what the hell...
 

Deereman76

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Location
Southern Indiana
TDI
00 Jetta 5spd.
Guess I should update this, My car is starting to act like it did early in the QA problem days.... Dunno what is going on, but it is still driveable. Getting an occasional QA fault code. I am thinking about getting out of the TDI world instead of replacing the pump.....
 

Houpty GT

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2008
Location
South Carolina
TDI
Corrado TDI, 2000 Golf, 1996 B4 Variant
I bought a used 11mm pump and the car did not run correctly. It would idle rough and not have good accelerator response. The engine would slowly adjust idle to smooth it out. You could see on VCDS, that it would max out all the injector balance numbers and then throw a code for QA upper limit reached. When I installed my old QA from the 1z pump on the 11mm pump body, the problems went away.

I am currently cleaning and analyzing the broken QA. There was mild debris on the magnets which I removed. All the electrical checks that I did came out fine and nothing looked out of order. I took the QA to work and the electricians said it looked pretty bullet proof and thought it worked about the same way as I did. It looks like there are actually 2 adjustments on the circuit board. The first one being the arm that Deereman mentioned. The second being the other copper frame section that appears to be for a reference voltage. It looks that if you loosen the screws you would be able to move the reference voltage. This is probably an advanced test bench setting and I dare not move it far from its current location. So that being said, I have no idea what caused this QA to be bad. Perhaps someone previously played with the settings or it could have been the debris. Any ideas?

 
Last edited:

Houpty GT

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2008
Location
South Carolina
TDI
Corrado TDI, 2000 Golf, 1996 B4 Variant
I finished my QA rebuild and it works. The only gotcha I ran into was that there is a longer stud that needs to be installed next to the electrical connections. The cover will not go on and you will have to take the entire QA apart again to correct it.

Here are my steps to set the position sensor:

Visually set arm like it was on my other QA; Car will not start and has codes for Upper Limit Reached. Measuring block Group 19 Voltage is something like 0.4- 4.6.

Move the arm clockwise. Car will not start and has upper limit and lower limit codes.
Hammer the pump towards the transmission. Car starts and runs much better than it did before rebuild but has a occasional stumble during start and while setting into idle. IQ is 12.5. Car has code for p1563 Lower Limit reached. Measuring Block Group 19 Voltage is 1.060-4.820. 0.043” arm clearance

Adjust arm counter clockwise; 0.039” arm clearance. Group 19 0.880-4.640 volts. Starts at 13 IQ. Hammer down to 5. Starts good and runs good. No codes.

Group 19 reads the voltage of the arm when it does its sweep when the ignition is first turned on. This could actually be set without having to reseal and restart the pump every time. Here are the tolerances:
Group 019 (Quantity adjuster)
Block 1;Voltage from modulating piston displacement sensor: 0.500 - 0.970 V
Block 2;Voltage from piston displacement sensor: 4.150 - 4.740 V

I may make one more fine adjustment in a couple days.

:) Thank you Deereman76
 
Last edited:

Richard55

Vendor
Joined
Jan 26, 2006
Location
Rutledge, Georgia
TDI
2000 NB
Super Houpty, great input. I don't know if I thanked you for showing me the QA when it was apart if I didn't I am now. THANKS. Great job and thanks for coming to the GTG
 

dieselgeer

Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Location
North Hill, Maryland
TDI
2001 Jetta GL TDI
Thanks Deereman76 for starting this thread. I'm in a no start with my Jetta 290k miles and tried everything, I thought. After reading this, I checked my block 019 and had 0.680V and 0.800V. Not good and couldn't clear my 17970 fault. I took the top off and tried to move the lever and after a good yank, it broke loose and moved freely. I was able to clear the fault codes and then checked block 019 and had 4.740V. Sweet!! It started right up at idle but as I accelerated, it stumbled and died. Block 019 went back to 0.800V. Must be stuck again and full of crud.
I will begin my cleaning tomorrow. Thanks so much for the help!!
 

TurbinD7

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2013
Location
MN
TDI
97' Jetta TDI and 99' NB
I was having issues with my car throwing QA codes after I pulled and cleaned mine. It would start and run great, but the car would shut off when decelerating when it was in gear (5sp). If I put it in neutral I could let off the pedal and it wouldn't die. Tricky to understand and was even trickier to drive. Noone I had talked to about it had heard of this symptom. Even a few people on here I asked about it. Well with ALOT of searching I came across this thread and picked up VCDS cable. It took me a few months to realize it that my Group 19 block 1 was a hair on the high side. My block 1 was at 1.680 within the specified 1.35-2.10. Group 19 was 1.180 just outside the .500-.970 also block 2 was just out of spec at 4.860. Close enough to run and drive, just not decelerate! It took me a few times getting the wiper adjusted because it didn't take much to go too far with it. Hence the reason when I put it back together and eye balling it isn't a good enough substitute for getting a VCDS! It saved me from buying a new injection pump or trying to locate a used QA. It got rid of all my codes and is still weird driving and being able to downshift! Thanks Houpty GT for putting your steps in this thread as they were the real eye opener to my issue!
 

Celco

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2005
Location
Warren, MI 48092
TDI
2002 Golf 4dr ALH 5-speed
I too am getting a few QA codes on my 02 ALH Golf. Few questions for those of you that have done the clean....

1) After you take the 3 torx and 1 triangle security bolt off of the IP, does this QA block just come up and off?

2) What cleaning agent did you guys use to spray everything down to clean it up? I have seen brake clean somewhere before.

3) What are the thoughts of new seals/gaskets when you pull it apart? Did you reuse the old gasket? If you reuse the gaskets... did you put any RTV or extra sealant as well?
 

nick-w

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Location
Santa Cruz
TDI
Jetta 2002 /1998 mk3
I know this is an old post, but how are you guys cutting the small welds on the plug to the pump? on the inside of the pump?
 

TurbinD7

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2013
Location
MN
TDI
97' Jetta TDI and 99' NB
If I recall seeing once you have to have someone de-solder them to remove it. I could be wrong but that's just my thoughts
 
Top