Lets build a CCV filter - Page 3

GoneDiesel · August 3rd, 2001, 14:52

Gewilli, the hose does fit the OEM intake. I used 3/4 hose.

Sooty, your set up sounds pretty cool. Please get some pics. I would like to work at getting mine into a smaller size. Something 2-2.5" dia by 6-8" long would be nice.

Sooty · August 3rd, 2001, 17:48

I’m not expert in this field so if somebody can think of a more plausible answer then please step-in. But I believe the chambers need occupy a certain amount of space to allow the gases to slow down and expand into as this aids the cooling/condensing process. If my thinking is correct then a smaller chamber would not reclaim as much oil. As to what the ideal size should be I don’t know, I just tool Lloyds advice.

snowball · August 3rd, 2001, 21:27

I've found another place that makes these filters.
Now this is a marine application, and the cost does not seem to be on the site. This leads me to think that this brand is very expensive. Looks like they have a version for big rigs, and Dodge trucks as well.

This link will bring you to the "how it works" portion of the site.
Walker engineering Their method is to use intake air to condense the CC vapors. They then drain the oil back to the CC, and feed the water/fuel mix into the intake air.

Pros:
Seems that it should do a decent job of seperation.
Maintains a vacuum in the CC (the more I read, the more people I see think this is a big bonus)
Feeding the water/fuel mix back through the turbo keeps the engine cool, and turbo & intercooler clean (according to them)
Drains the oil back to the CC (can we decide if this is good or bad?)

Cons:
Expected high cost
Might be a bit large to mount under the hood
high cost?
Drains the oil back to the CC (can we decide if this is good or bad?)
Possible BS claims on products? (I have to admit that the black bullet and fuelsep products sound a little "out there")?

What is the groups thoughts on draining the CCV oil back to the CC? My personal thought is that the oil that we would have in the catch can is s***. Has, or would anyone be able to perform an oil analysis of the CCV oil? I'd tend to think that it would be rather diluted, and contaminated with acids and such... Data on this would be most usefull though.

alien8 · August 5th, 2001, 08:11

Snowball, I checked out the " Walker" site, it was interesting. Another con or pro
your choice, would be that the filter(s) need to be oiled. And how do you think they expell the water/fuel back into the motor. Somekind of screen/ filter/membrain within the unit. It kinda looks like an intercooler/aftercooler yet allows direct air transfer to the engine air intake,near the turbo. Hmmmm

[ August 05, 2001: Message edited by: alien8 ]

Dante · August 6th, 2001, 10:34

I checked out the Walker Airsep and posted some information a couple weeks ago. They sell an inline unit for Cummins turboodiesels that we might be able to adapt to a TDI. You would have to splice it into your intake downstream of the MAF. Walker says this unit is standard equipment on Cummins Marine turbodiesels.

I think the Airsep uses intake air to cool and coalesce the oil and water vapor. What I want to know is whether or not it disturbs the airflow (i.e., does anything stick out into the intake airflow?). Walker claims >90% efficiency at removing crankcase vapors, and you could always drain the condensed CCV vapors to a resivoir instead of your sump.

I haven't followed up because the Airsep is even more expensive than the Racor CCV 4500. The Airsep looks reasonable to me, but the "bullet" products made me wonder, too.

It seems our options are:

1. Racor CrankVent or CCV 4500 filter. I got a quote of $212.50 for a CCV4500 from a local distributor.

2. The M20 aircraft oil separator. >$200

3. The Walker Airsep. The inline unit costs about $450.

4. Commercial oil catch can. $50 to >$100

5. Make something ourselves.

I will probably opt for a Racor CCV 4500 in the location of GoneDiesel's PVC setup if it looks like that will work and my "project" budget permits. Until then, I'll watch this thread for less expensive alternatives.

[ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: Dante Driver ]

Dan Clarke · August 7th, 2001, 21:00

Hi,

I put thislinkin another thread but it might help someone here till a real honest to goodness solution is found. I doubt it has the volume to continue working through a drive of several hours due to my percieved notion that the media will load up and not accept any more oil till it gets a draindown period, but my commute at the present time is less than an hour and it seems to be keeping my intake dry for now.

Dan

MOGolf · August 8th, 2001, 06:54

If you had turned the bottle 180 degrees, moving the valve 180 degrees from where you have it, with the neck of the bottle attached to the valve cover, it could self drain back into the valve cover.

This may require leaving the engine cover off. But it is essentially what is needed on this engine to condense the oil and return it to the engine.

GeWilli · August 8th, 2001, 09:13

I'll re-register my objection to letting the oil drain back in.

You don't want that stuff in there.

Do not drain the oil from a CCV catch can back into the engine.

Collect it and dispose of it with the oil from an oil change.

Dan Clarke · August 8th, 2001, 23:25

MIGOLFGLSTDI,

Didn't see the forest for the trees. I'll see if there's room for it in the up position and if there is, I'll change it and take some more pictures.

GeWilli,

Or, I may to listen to you and leave it in the down position. Having it drain back to the engine, automatically, appeals to my lazy side, but then I won't ever know what it's doing because I won't be checking it.

Do you know if there has been scientific testing done on the collected oil to determine what's in it and how harmful it is?

Dan

Boone · August 27th, 2001, 14:27

Hey guys,
Was just reading up on this topic cuz i was concidering doing this mod to my Jetts TDI. I have seen some comment about using a compressed air inlne filter to catch airborne particulates and oil mist. I think this would work but my only concern is the operating temp of most of compressed air items, most are only rated for 125-150 deg F and im not sure what the temp is on the air coming out of the engine. Any thoughts on this?

Also i think a inline filter like im talking about need a certain amount of minimum PSI to even begin to work properly, when we start the compressors up at the shop here, you can hear air leaking out of all of those filter till the system reaches a certain PSI.

Ive done some checking into several compressed air filters and the size of a unit that would handle the CFM is about the size of the 4500ccv filter.

GeWilli · August 30th, 2001, 11:32

boone,

won't work - not enough pressure to force through the filter.

this is defiantely a low pressure high volume filter application.

I've been looking at an empty Amsoil Cetane boost bottle . . . exhaust out the top - fill it with alluminum wool, put a drain in the bottom and plumb the intake midway through the bottle. . . . attach it to the oil filter housing onthe A4 . . .

jetmann · August 31st, 2001, 02:27

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GeWilli:
I'll re-register my objection to letting the oil drain back in.

You don't want that stuff in there.

Do not drain the oil from a CCV catch can back into the engine.

Collect it and dispose of it with the oil from an oil change.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Does this apply to CCV filters, as well as the catch can? I'm interested in the mod, but not sure what direction I'll take yet...

weasel · August 31st, 2001, 10:40

Why not use this ?? Got it from Summit ..

My CCV

GeWilli · August 31st, 2001, 10:40

jettmann,

absolutely it applies to anything that would let the vapors condense and drain back in.

this is bad very bad

jetmann · August 31st, 2001, 17:52

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GeWilli:
[QBabsolutely it applies to anything that would let the vapors condense and drain back in.[/QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I was thinking about Drivbiwire's Racor setup...Has Pete ever done an analysis of the flowback (or is that flowthrough, in his case), and if so, was there anything significant in the returned oil?