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July 5th, 2011, 09:50
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#1
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Northeast Georgia
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2000 new beetle tdi turbo leaking oil
I have been told my turbo seals are leaking oil. Question - rebuild or buy new one? Cost of each option and who in Georgia to get to do this. I have referenced the names on the tdi recommended mechanics list if that
is the recommended source. My beetle has 186k on it. Is this normal to go out now? Is there anything to get a longer life on the next turbo?
Thanks in advance for all help and advice given!!!!
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July 5th, 2011, 10:05
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#2
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Minnesota-55744
Fuel Economy: 52+ average lifetime '01
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See one of the guys on the list first, if possible, to see if you really need a new turbo, but if its passing a lot of oil you most likely do and continueing to drive it that way can result in an engine "runaway" and big time engine damage/failure.If you do need to replace, buy a new turbo. They're not too bad really. Here's an example:
http://metalmanparts.com/product.sc?...&categoryId=52
Better chance of it lasting and not having to go thru the remove/reinstall issue again.
__________________

2001 Jetta TDI GLS Silver-current driver (salvage)permanently vented-Panzer Plate-Sprint 520s-ScanGauge-CheckTemp III-ZeroStart heater-CAT 2 filter
2003 Jetta GLS Black w/leather (New Project Car) fixer-upper w/broken TB
2004 Cadillac SLS (wife's)
1999 GMC Suburban (It's MN-you need one)
197? Shibura 2cyl diesel 4WD tractor-loader/brushhog (very handy unit)
196? International TD340 Dozer-w/Drott 4-in-1 bucket/back ripper attachment
Last edited by jettawreck; July 5th, 2011 at 10:09.
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July 5th, 2011, 10:18
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#3
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: West
Fuel Economy: 38 MPG @ 80 MPH with 2 bikes on top. 52 MPG @ 60 MPH slick
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If it is not making excessive noise (whirling sound) and you are getting the requested boost (verified by road test with VCDS), then it probably isn't the seals. Yes, it can leak oil but from other reasons, primarily from crankcase venting issues.
First, make sure there aren't any vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks means the vacuum pump works harder which forces air into the valve cover.
Second, the valve cover has a plastic baffle which contains stainless steel wire mesh pads. These pads can get fouled with combustion blow-by, reducing the effectiveness to remove oil mist from blow-by. This causes more oil to get into the intake and raises the crankcase pressure. This prevents normal draining of the center bearing, overloading the seals of the turbo. The seals are non-contact, meaning they are designed to leak small amounts of air and exhaust into the crankcase. If the air or exhaust gas cannot flow into the crankcase, oil will weep out.
Finally, the turbo oil drain could be clogged.
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2k Jetta manual. PP520s. Ventectomy, Panzer Plate, DT hitch, 16"s w/ 205 55s. Short shifter. Boost gauge with blue LED backlight, same intensity as dash. Blistein struts and shocks. 0.658:1 5th gear swap and LOVING IT.
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July 5th, 2011, 11:04
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#4
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Minnesota-55744
Fuel Economy: 52+ average lifetime '01
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Good reasons there not to spring for the turbo w/o a positive diagnosis first.
__________________

2001 Jetta TDI GLS Silver-current driver (salvage)permanently vented-Panzer Plate-Sprint 520s-ScanGauge-CheckTemp III-ZeroStart heater-CAT 2 filter
2003 Jetta GLS Black w/leather (New Project Car) fixer-upper w/broken TB
2004 Cadillac SLS (wife's)
1999 GMC Suburban (It's MN-you need one)
197? Shibura 2cyl diesel 4WD tractor-loader/brushhog (very handy unit)
196? International TD340 Dozer-w/Drott 4-in-1 bucket/back ripper attachment
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July 5th, 2011, 11:59
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#5
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: West
Fuel Economy: 38 MPG @ 80 MPH with 2 bikes on top. 52 MPG @ 60 MPH slick
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If there is a good bit of oil in the intercooler, it would be prudent to clean the intake before doing a turbo test to prevent a run-away. If you drain the IC every oil change, a few ounces is acceptable.
Cars that are gingerly driven can build up a bit more since intake and exhaust pressures are lower.
__________________
2k Jetta manual. PP520s. Ventectomy, Panzer Plate, DT hitch, 16"s w/ 205 55s. Short shifter. Boost gauge with blue LED backlight, same intensity as dash. Blistein struts and shocks. 0.658:1 5th gear swap and LOVING IT.
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July 5th, 2011, 13:29
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#6
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Northeast Georgia
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turbo leaking oil
Wow, thanks for all the quick and very useful responses. Will begin
to investigate these things and see which direction I'll take. Keep the
good info coming!
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July 5th, 2011, 20:43
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#7
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southeast Kentucky
Fuel Economy: What difference does it make?
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If the maintenance has been followed properly on the engine, I'd say the Turbo is just fine!
The advice above is right on! Don't go jumping to a new Turbo until all those things have been checked first!
__________________
'84 Vanagon '02 ALH TDI engine Malone Stage 1 tune. CAT, SS 2" exhaust, E-vac system, DMF with upgrade pilot shaft, 4.57 R&P, fan assisted IC. (32 to 35+ MPGs consistently)
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July 6th, 2011, 10:46
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#8
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Stafford Virginia 22556
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After being a member for almost 5 years, I'm sure you've learned by now the best advice would be to put your location in your profile.
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