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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old June 10th, 2012, 03:24   #46
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Not much progress on the 'yota lately. Mostly tidied up some of the wiring for now. I had a chance to pick up some 3" mandrel bends from my local auto parts store. A few 3" U-bends, a 3" pipe from a 1988 GMC diesel, it was cheap and has lots of bends. Also picked up a 4" tip

Did a little "automobile archaeology". Found these puppies under the dash, they are older than me!



Was also able to mount the glow-plug relay in a perfect spot. Red 50A fuse is attached to the side now as well. Pretty pleased with how this came out.



Also managed to get felt up at the dealer. Replaced my CCV pipe, fuel and oil filter. Walked out with over $100 bill. Although there really is something reassuring about OEM parts and filters.

Waiting on my couplers from Siliconintakes.com for now. Shipping to Canada is such a pain in the ass, hopefully they arrive soon so i can finish my IC piping!
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Old June 12th, 2012, 01:50   #47
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Got a call today from my buddy saying his brakes were making some crazy noises. Thought I would go check it out.

Once I got to his house, I was greeted by this. LOL



Had to weld a lugnut on of the bolt holding the hub on. What a PITA! Once the bolt was out, pulled of the hub/rotor assembly and the remainder of the rotor just fell off. Pretty sure these brakes were original. Truck was an early GM 6.5L diesel...surprisingly it runs great.



Back to the TDI. I had a chance to mount the fuel filter and rad, as well as mityvac some diesel fuel to the IP. Also picked up some Rotella T6 from Wal-mart at a decent price, I love the oil change intervals on these engines!



This thing is SO close to running!

Poured some in and noticed that my oil drain plug started weeping a bit...shoot. I assumed the plug sealed on the washer and not the threads, so I didnt check my bung welds 100%. For now I snugged it up fairly tight, seemed to stop the weep. Ill check up in the morning.

I was planning on running the VW fans and I got a chance today to confirm they are working. There are 3 leads going into the motor. Red/White, Red/Gray and Brown. R/W is high speed R/G is low and brown for GND.

Just wondering if anybody has seen a fan control module pinout for the AHU? Found some ALH info here, but its A4 only. Thinking of scrapping the module and just running two relays off of the VW thermo-switch.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 02:44   #48
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More messing with the wiring today. I kept getting three codes out of my OBD scanner.
17664/P1256 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (G62): Open / Short to B+

17660/P1252 - Start of Injection Solenoid Circuit Open/Short to Ground

18025/P1617 - Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circ. Open/Short to Ground


I spent way too much time checking wiring for these codes. Turns out the the 24-pin main engine connector had a bad connection. I believe another swapper (e*clipse) had this exact same problem, I should have clued in to this sooner. Make sure to check your main engine connector!

While I was in there I also found some shabbed glow plug wiring. Looks like the two main glow wires were shorting on the cyl head.



Managed to fix up the 24-pin connector and glow plug wires. No more codes for now! Will be running in no time.
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Old June 13th, 2012, 03:17   #49
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Got the fan control circuit pretty much figured out as well.

I had the VW Rad, Fan, Temp Switch, Fan Controller and Wiring. Since the Rad fit nicely, I wanted to utilize as much as I could.

Here is a drawing looking at the temperature switch.



When Pins 1-2 are bridged, the fan should run on LOW speed (84-95 deg)
When Pins 2-3 are bridged, the fan should run on HIGH speed (91-102 deg)

The wire going to Pin 2 acts as a 12V supply. When the temp switch hits the temp setpoints, it opens the circuit to pin 1 or pin 3.

Once I had this figured out, I played with the fan controller to see if I could activate the high and low speed relays. After fiddling with many wires (Didnt fry anything! ) I found the low speed relay opened with 12V to green/gray and the high speed would open with 12V to red/yellow AND black/yellow.

I then mounted the controller and ran the wires directly to the temp switch. AKA Pin1 to grn/gray, Pin 2 to 12V supply, Pin 3 to Red/Yel and Blk/Yel.



Works great!
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Old June 14th, 2012, 04:03   #50
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Made a minor modification to the fan wiring today.

I wired the temp switch +12V pin (Red) so that it had power in ACC and ON but not during START. I have seen custom cars that wont start with a hot engine while the fans are running on high because of the draw. Wired this way, the power is allocated to the starter motor instead of the fans during START only.

Also messed around with the Glow Plug Light (Pin 68/48) and MIL (Pin 68/60). A few people have said to run LED lights for these lights, out of curiosity I wanted to check what the VW used.

I pulled a VW bulb that is used for glow/MIL to check how much power it draws.



If we do the math thats 12.8V*.0782A=1.01W

I then pulled the Toyota bulb to check the same



12.8V*.092A=1.18W

My thoughts are at a difference of ~0.17W or about 17%, wouldnt the ECU be able to handle this? Seems like a small amount of power to dissapate, although I am no electronics guru. Any opinions on this?
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Old June 16th, 2012, 00:03   #51
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IT RUNS!

Albiet, it's a little rough.

I'm having a serious air bubble session going on in my IP intake line. I used a piece of clear tubing for fuel line and can see some 1-2" section of solid air going into my IP.

Right now im running no lift pump (which I probably should) and two fuel filters. I have the stock toyota filter on the frame rail as well as the tdi filter, wonder if the toyota filter is causing some issues?

I mityvacced fuel to the IP from the return line to purge out all air bubbles. I also cracked the injection lines and purged the air out. The truck started fairly quick but was running pretty rough. Lots of white/grey smoke that smells like diesel. I saw the MASSIVE air bubbles going into the IP so I shut her down pretty quick, dont want to run the IP on air lubrication

Im also wondering if I have the thermostatic tee put in right? I installed the tee so that it flows easily from the IP to filter but hard from the return line to filter side (When I blew in it anyways)

Also have an engine code
17970/P1562/005474 - Quantity Adjuster (N146): Upper Limit Reached

Im assuming this is because of the air coming into the IP? All of my connection seem to be fine. Hard to tell because im just using a generic OBD scanner.

Wondering what is causing all these air bubbles? Im going to run it out of a small container right beside the IP when I get a chance, ill post up a vid when she is chuggin' proper!

Cheers
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Old June 24th, 2012, 01:58   #52
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Combined the Toyota O/D off light and the VW Glow light to make a glow light for the Toyota. I didnt like using any of the other lights in the cluster to use as the glow light, plus the O/D off light pulled 78mA (same as the VW)


Got my I/C couplers as well, finally. The quality is much better than the ebay ones i got with the kit. They were from siliconintakes.com and well worth the wait considering the price.



Im am planning on making an airbox on the right side out of sheetmetal and mounting the MAF and Throttle Pot on it. This way I can use the stock pedal + cable and have a place for cool intake air.

Also, Picked up some used FJ Cruiser rims. Tires are stock and come out at around 32" just need to fix that old saggy arse!


Balla balla!

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Old June 25th, 2012, 06:03   #53
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On the bulb issue I've been running the toyota factory incandescents for over a year and right @ 20k miles with no issues....my ecm is an ALH that used LED's in the cluster, however both of these warning lamps in the MKIV chassis use CAN to activate....so I'm sourcing my glow/CEL lamps from unused pins on the ecm that still provide the same lamp functions as the older ECM's such as yours....
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Old June 26th, 2012, 22:49   #54
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Good to know, didnt realize the ALH engines used LED's as opposed to incans. Guess I will be safe running the toyota lights. Appreciate the peace of mind there.

Got the interior put all back together and my shifters modified. Its nice having an interior again, truck was starting to look like a gypsy caravan.

The engine has been pushed 3" forward and has a 3" body lift, so some modification was definitely needed.


Got my exhuast system completed as well. The system is a 2.5" to 3" transition welded right off of the turbo flange, this bends into a 3" stainless flex section which then, after a few bends, exits out of a 4" tip at the back. I am very happy with the bends from the downpipe flange back, but I will be redoing my downpipe in the future.

I cheated the radius on the first bend (can see in pic) and im not happy with it at all. The future plan on is to make it a smooth 2.25-3" transition right off of the flange (not an 2 inches after like I have it) to try and maximize exhaust velocity post-turbo. That, and get a proper mandrel bend into my flex-section






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Old June 26th, 2012, 23:08   #55
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Going back to an older post - I am still struggling with this error.

17970/P1562/005474 - Quantity Adjuster (N146): Upper Limit Reached

Since I thought that some of the air bubbles coming into the IP were causing the rough idle/P1562 I re-routed my lines into a jar. I filled a tall glass jar with about 1L of diesel and ran my supply and return lines to it, it also sat higher than the IP to assure there would be head pressure supplying the supply.


...and surprisingly it runs exactly the same.


Starting to wonder if a new IP may be on the horizon. Unfortunately, I didnt ever see the engine run in the jetta, so im not sure if this was the case before the swap even began.

Well, I have a video for you guys anyways. Figured it was a good time to showcase the new exhaust/rough idle. It's loping pretty hard. You can see how much unburnt fuel im getting at startup and under load. Its more white on startup and a little more grey as I rev it.

I would appreciate any feedback you guys had.

First Gen 4Runner - First Start

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Old June 27th, 2012, 04:43   #56
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nice vid man!!....are you running larger nozzles?....sounds like it may just need a little hammer mod treatment on the IP quantity adjuster ...
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Old July 4th, 2012, 00:52   #57
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So im back in school these days...my updates are going to be less frequent.

Jimbote - Planning on running some PP520's and a good tune once I get this thing running properly (Probably a 17/22 in time ). I made the mistake of modding the engine on my last engine swap before it was running and it caused me too much trouble. Just trying to minimize my troubleshooting variables

I've read a bit about the hammer mod...I really need to get VCDS before I start dinkin' with that. Its $300 after shipping up to us canucks here, so i've been holding back.

I did pick up the rest of my cooling hose. Picked up 6ft of 1.25" coolant hose and a bunch of 1/8" vaccum lines. Just need to find the time!
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Old July 16th, 2012, 01:20   #58
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The cooling system has turned out to be quite a pain. The AHU engine had an absolute MAZE of coolant lines. Turns out its nearly impossible to find 1" brass pipe nipples/elbows, so ive had to make do with what I could find (copper/plastic)

I got most of it figured out using these diagrams.



Essentially the rad feeds the w-pump from the bottom which is pressurized to the head. It flows out the back of the head into the EGR cooler and also out of the head back into the upper rad connector. The egr cooler flows into the heater core, then the oil cooler which is tee'd into the exp chamber.

I also did some reading and found a fantastic way to roll a bead onto my IC piping. I by no means take credit for the design, all I can say is that it works great.





I picked up a used 2 1/4" exhaust clamp saddle from my local muffler shop and welded that along with a washer onto a pair of vice-grips. Line up the edge of the pipe with the edge of the exhaust saddle and clamp away!

Disclaimer: You're gonna need some man hands for this one.
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Old July 16th, 2012, 01:28   #59
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I have also been eyeing up a set of Gauges from Prosport gauges.

and a nice Pillar to match

There was a group buy awhile back for a boost gauge the reads 0-45psi (no vaccum) I emailed them, hopefully they still have some laying around, it seems all of thier boost gauges show in/hg, making them 1/3 useless for me.

Cant beat the price though.
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Old August 23rd, 2012, 00:12   #60
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It drives!!

School has taken over for the most part, but I have been able to tinker with the old gal here and there. Completed the fuel system. No lift pump, no problems so far, although one would surely help. I have finished off the cooling system and filled with VW pink. Throttle is mounted on a custom air box using the stock Toyota cable.

Wiring has been completely cleaned up as well, What a difference! Its amazing how much better clean wiring can make an engine compartment look. Used about 5 rolls of hockey tape and some of that plastic wire loom tubing.

I have also recieved my VCDS in the mail thanks toRoseland Tech. Still learning how to use it, but i have taken a few logs. This thing is great!

Will post some videos
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