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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old September 1st, 2011, 23:15   #31
alpine_climb
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I would not worry about the angle, get a good oil pressure gauge. Maybe run a the oil a little over full.
Nice build.
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Old September 6th, 2011, 23:30   #32
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Thanks alpine

Got a little work done over the weekend. Tried to get the stock motor mounts to work with the tdi somehow...Nope. IF YOUR READING THIS NOW GRIND THAT S*$T OFF ITS A LOST CAUSE.

I know someone here used the factory mounts but since im using the automatic trans crossmember its pushed a few inches forward. I could have booty fabbed something up, but I really dont wanna roll the dice with something like this. Plus, the motor mount holes are very low on the TDI block.


So I ended up pulling the engine....for the fourth time. May as well change the gear oil this time?



Frame is prepped and ready to accept some new mounts. Planning to weld some new bracketry and use the stock toyota rubber mount.



Here is the A340H crossmember for reference, notice the bend, giving you that additional firewall clearance.

Last edited by ToyotaTDI; September 6th, 2011 at 23:32.
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Old September 7th, 2011, 04:11   #33
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word on just cutting the toy mounts off..."not worth it" ....how much does the auto crossmember move everything forward?
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Last edited by jimbote; September 7th, 2011 at 10:57.
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Old September 9th, 2011, 22:24   #34
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Well as you can see in the 2nd last pic...I've already cut the mounts off Why do you say its not worth it?? Using the stock position would had made the strength/shape of the my mount ridiculous.

The passenger mount needs to come forward about 1" and the driver back about 3". I believe the auto crossmember moves things forward about 3", not sure exactly but there is lots of room infront of the firewall.
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Old September 10th, 2011, 05:18   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToyotaTDI View Post
Well as you can see in the 2nd last pic...I've already cut the mounts off Why do you say its not worth it?? Using the stock position would had made the strength/shape of the my mount ridiculous.

The passenger mount needs to come forward about 1" and the driver back about 3". I believe the auto crossmember moves things forward about 3", not sure exactly but there is lots of room infront of the firewall.
you misunderstood me....I was paraphrasing your previous post.... let me clarify ... I agree it's NOT worth trying to keep the frame mounts...I tried the same thing on my tacoma but they just got in the way so I cut em' off myself
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Old February 8th, 2012, 22:22   #36
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How's the project coming along?
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Old May 27th, 2012, 23:52   #37
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Well long time no updates for this thread - apologies

I had a 8 month internship in Edmonton, AB and it was short notice. After I graduated, packed my bags, got my life in order, towed the runner to a buddies for storage and she sat in the cold all winter

She's back though...and time for some UPDATES!

Good to be wrenching again, I had no projects to work on all winter! Just had to stare at my roommate putting together a 500rwhp 240sx with an rb30 engine.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 00:38   #38
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After spending 8 months away from my beloved TDI, I had to get re-aquainted. First thing I did was pull the engine for the fifth time and scratch my head a bit.

After a fair amount of head scratching was completed, I decided to tackle the block off plates and oil pan.



After some final trimming, the two plates fit well.

The starter plate will be needed for proper starter spacing and the lower bellhousing plate to keep out dust and debris. I picked up a roll of foam tape from my local automotive store to make some gaskets on the edge of the plates as well.

While I was fiddling around with the plates I decided to make my TDC mark as well. A few seconds with a punch and angle grinder and I was done.

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Old May 28th, 2012, 00:48   #39
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The oil pan bolt was hitting the front differential, the engine needed to come down quite a bit so I decided on moving the bolt to a different location.

The old oil drain hole was welded shut and the bung and bolt were re-used in a newly drilled hole. ****ty welds..its been a while



After some slight *massaging* with a BFH, the oil bung location should have enough clearance.



Bolted up and ready to rock.

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Old May 28th, 2012, 00:56   #40
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Fuel system was next, drained what little gas was in the tank in filled er up with diesel.



After pouring ~20L of diesel out of jerry cans into this hole, while spilling profusely, I realized I could have just put it down the filler neck
At least it smells like diesel in the cab now, yummy

While the fuel pump was out, I removed and replaced it with a straight section of fuel line. Not going to run a lift pump for now, will add one in the future if needed.



And the hero of the day! This tool made purging the lines an absolute breeze, it wasnt cheap, but the quality is good and it exceeded expectations.

MityVac Mv8500 *WARNING TOOL PORN ALERT*

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Old May 28th, 2012, 01:03   #41
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Got my water pump pulley sorted as well, came from a VR6 non-ac engine I believe. The pulley was sitting way too far back and was rubbing the lower t-belt cover.

Found a perfect set of nuts...

...and proceeded to drill them



The nuts gave me perfect spacing and JUST fit on the pulley flange.

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Old May 30th, 2012, 00:10   #42
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Got started on my engine mounts today, progress is slow...

Started with some 3" wide 1/8" flat bar and 2" square stock with 1/8" wall. I am planning on using the stock toyota mounts as I know they are tough and if they let go, trail-gear has some bomb proof mounts that I can just bolt in.

Plus, the more toyota the better.



Started with .025 gas wire, which was a huge milk. Swapped out to .035 flux core and the welds came out 100x better.

Drivers side mount


Drivers side /w Toyota Mount


Passenger side mount



While I was trying to get the mount tacked to the frame, I heard the wire gun spool followed by a *CRACKLE CFRACKL*...OHHH ****
I had my wire gun resting on the valve cover and managed to weld my needle lift sensor. Hope shes good to go



Finally got the drivers side mount welded to the frame. Got rained out (I hate not having a garage) so I plan to finish the other side when the weather improves. Not sure if im going to redo the mount bolted on the engine below, you can see the .025 wire boogers on the backside there. Not too structurally important though


Last edited by ToyotaTDI; May 30th, 2012 at 00:43.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 01:52   #43
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Got my motor mounts finished over the last few days. I have never done mounts or any larger fabrication projects so it took longer than I would had hoped, but they turned out pretty well so I am pleased.

Passenger side







Drivers Side






I do wish that I put more of an angle on the square channel coming of the passenger side mount. Having that at a 90deg angle straight off of the flange wasn't the greatest design. May change that in the future.

Overall, not as it really wasnt as hard as I expected it to be. Used cardboard templates to find my shapes and just tacked the pieces as I went. All you really need is a bit of courage and a welder

Last edited by ToyotaTDI; June 2nd, 2012 at 01:56.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 02:50   #44
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Well its raining here again in sunny northwest . Figured it would be a good time to tackle the wiring. I found a nice colored wiring diagram that made things a little more pleasant.



The wiring diagram can be found here

As I despise wiring and needed some assistance I got my right hand man out there to help me out.





Guys....


















Guys.......











Guys, He's way smarter than he looks, I swear.


The switches/sensors I have isolated so far are:
F36 - Clutch Switch
F47 - Brake Switch
G80 - Needle lift sensor
G81 Fuel temperature sender
G28 - Engine Speed sensor
G70 - MAF
G62 Coolant Temperature Sender
G72 - IAT sensor
G79 - TPS
G149 - IP plunger sensor
N18 EGR Solenoid (optional)
K29 Glow plug Light
N75 Boost Control Solenoid

As far as I know these are the items needed for the TDI to run properly.

I also found a few goodies:
Fan Control Relay + Circuit (Gonna try and use this with the ECU and VW Rad/Fan setup)
Tach signal wire (Can this signal be correlated somehow? Think e*clipse had something, better shuffle some papers)
Glow Plug Relay 180+ Circuit
OBD II signal wire
Cruise control wires
Dummy lights etc.

I got a little confused on my glow plug relay as all the wiring diagrams I have seen state the glow plug relay as relay 103 in the fuse block. I have isolated a glow plug relay number 180 and it is external to the fuse block. I understand this was a 1998 AHU thing only.

Got a bit more tidying up to do, then I can start integrating the leftovers into the runner.
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Old June 6th, 2012, 00:10   #45
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Got a good chunk of the wiring integrated into the toyota over the last few days. Off the top of my head, this is how it sits.

Tapped Toyota EFI relay for +12V to VW ECU (Blue/Red wire Conn G1/10)

ECU ground wires (T68/1, 68/24, 68/46) grounded to pass side inner fender

Wired blk/vio (T68/42) and black (T68/38) to +12V with ignition in the run position

Wired in the OBD-II Connector. Red wire going to +12V in the ACC position, Grey/wht wire going to ECU (T68/61), Brown wires grounded. (Originally wired it to +12V at Ign at run position...the scanner didnt like that ).

Need to integrate glow plug relay + harness into the mix still.

All sensors are wired up with the exception of the G79 throttle pot. I dont have the VW gas pedal bracket so im going to have to fab something to hold it in place.

Also wondering about the placement of G72 Intake air temp sensor. VW uses a funny method of mounting this sensor (downward pressure applied via a clip). Going to have to fab some sort of bung to hold this in the IC piping I think.
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