| TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines. |
March 13th, 2012, 13:43
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#16
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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Just in from my garage... aluminium isn't really the best thing to make adapter plates out of, if you plan on tapping the plate for bolt holes. Even with helicoils installed my aluminium adapter plate wasn't up to par, so I've remade it out of steel.
Pulled the transmission out of the truck, to work out some clearance issues, which turned out to be the length of my pilot shaft bushing. Anyway, everything is nice and bolted up now.
The starter had to be clocked slightly, due to the 22ret flywheel having a slightly smaller ring gear diameter than the VR6 flywheel. I'll take a couple more pictures of how I managed to get it working tonight. Another clearance issue to work out is gonna be the downpipe. The flange I cut won't quite clear the starter without being ground down a bit first.
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March 13th, 2012, 22:46
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#17
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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Clockable starter
Problems with the aluminium.... I probably could have given the bolt more meat to grab onto, but why take the risk again.
Here's a laggy phone video of the motor cranking/transmission moving: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBPwVM4olyo
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March 27th, 2012, 22:13
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#18
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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Here's some night pictures... from my mobile communication device.
They're mostly for my own record, but I figured I might as well share, even if they're not beautiful.
Working on the front motor mount.
Gotta clear the steering box thingy...
This side is open
C-clamps for now... welding it up tomorrowish? maybe...
Engine in the bay... not looking forward to figuring out those vacuum lines.
drivers side
Oilpan clears with a 2 inch body lift....
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May 16th, 2012, 17:06
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#19
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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Made quite a bit of progress in the last month... the only thing really missing is ELECTRICAL!
oh, and power steering, fuel lines, vacuum lines, and AC... dear me...
If anyone has any tips on which pins from the engine harness need the switched 12 volts/ground, I'd greatly appreciate them.
I have a 2001 ECU and engine wiring harness all plugged in, but can't figure all the wires that need power despite the massive amounts of documentation on the forum. :/
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May 24th, 2012, 12:52
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Winnipeg MB
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I might be able to help you here. After transplanting an ALH into a Ranger, having a valve drop. And now buidling another one in a 2008 Ranger I have intimate knowledge of the wiring, I think! HA ha....
pin 1 and 2[red/vio](30amp)hot in start/run.
pin 37 [blk/vio](10a) hot in run/start
pin 88 [blk/grn](5a) hot in run
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May 24th, 2012, 16:37
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#21
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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wow... so just 4 wires then!
Thanks for the info! I'm going to get on this again. Hopefully I'll get it at least idling by next week.
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May 25th, 2012, 11:11
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#22
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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hmm... checking the wiring diagrams, it seems that pin 1 is supposed to be grounded and pin 2 is no where to be found....
Would you mind clarifying? Should I find the wire going from pin 2 in the harness and connect it directly to switched 12 volts?
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May 30th, 2012, 13:57
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Winnipeg MB
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Well I did assume this was a 99.5-2003 Jetta? or ALH
Is this not what you have? If its the 2004 and up Jetta then yes
pins 1 and 2 are grounds and I can give you the wires that are hot for that too if needed
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May 30th, 2012, 14:16
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#24
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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yes it's an alh from a 2001 jetta... I am currently looking for the hot wires and the ground wires.
Basically, the wires that need to be connected to the battery in order to for the ECU to run.
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May 30th, 2012, 14:43
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Winnipeg MB
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Yeah ok, then my original private message to you is correct, involving pins 1, 2, 37, 88.
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May 30th, 2012, 14:45
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Winnipeg MB
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Grounds are pins 4 and 5 btw
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June 4th, 2012, 23:26
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#27
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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Thanks for the starting point Lone Ranger!
I have voltage going to 1, 2, 37, and 88... 4 and 5 are grounded, but my engine refuses to start.
There is fuel at the injectors. I hear the solenoid on the IP click when I power up the ecu. I guess that's good?
Last edited by Danielg42; June 5th, 2012 at 00:18.
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June 4th, 2012, 23:53
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#28
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Victoria, B.C.
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Hey Dan,
Are you using Relay 109 or a Toyota Relay in lieu of?
I believe the ECU needs a signal coming from the coil side of the relay, not sure what it is on the ALH but my AHU its T68/42. I believe it wont run without communication with the relay.
Got your OBD hooked up yet?
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June 4th, 2012, 23:56
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#29
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Irvine, CA
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Right now I'm just hooking up the power manually with a jumper wire.. OBD2 is a ways away.
Relay 109 just allows 12 volts to flow through to the ECU. I ran my dad's 1Z via a jumper wire for a while when his relay 109 failed.
I'm pretty sure my problem lies with which pins going on the ECU should be receiving power.
Just realized it could be a timing issue... I'll try and advance the IP tomorrow.
Last edited by Danielg42; June 5th, 2012 at 00:18.
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June 5th, 2012, 06:14
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#30
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
Fuel Economy: 34-39 b.m; 46-49 a.m.
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there is one small wire on the ALH that has to be connected to the coil side of R109 or the engine will NOT start ...I don't know how the 1Z's operate but the ALH has to see R109 or similar....it's not just a matter of "jumping" a wire.... do you have a diagram?
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