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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old April 13th, 2011, 10:08   #1
rm22
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Default DMF / Clutch Replacement 2006 TDI BRM Jetta

First-time poster here. Thanks to all experts here from whom I've learned a lot from in past searches.

I'm up against the inevitable DMF replacement. I've researched the issue and the descriptions and videos linked from other threads seem to match exactly to my symptoms. Not good timing as it just went through the EGR cooler replacement, but overall can't complain as we're almost to 200K miles on this with these being the only major problems so far. Car has manual transmission.

I need help / clarification / advice on the following two points.
(In advance, please don't suggest that I see a local guru as I've already been to my local guru in ME and although he provided some free consultation, he will not work on a BRM engine. The other VW (not TDI though) expert in my area lost my trust last time in after misdiagnosing the EGR problem):

1) The dealer has given me two quotes depending on the DMF model in the car. $1200 if Sachs, $1600 if Luk. He says he can't tell from the VIN and will need to look at the DMF before ordering.
Does this sound right? My VIN is 3VWST71K86M027247 if it will help to decode this mystery. I'm trying to save valuable time and get the correct part ordered in advance as I need the car next week. After the initial diagnosis, it's another two days in the shop to order the correct parts.

2) The dealer has recommended that the clutch be replaced while it's in the shop and all apart. This will add an additional $400 to the quotes above. Considering that it has 200K miles, is this a good investment?

Thanks much in advance.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 10:28   #2
chittychittybangbang
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Forget the dealer replacement and the DMF. I replaced a bad DMF in my car with a new DMF and still regret it because a SMF engages more consistently and will never fail. You would replace the flywheel and clutch at the same time, parts+labor should be half of what the dealer is charging. Here are my notes on it if you feel like DIY. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...Volkswagen.htm
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Old April 13th, 2011, 10:42   #3
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+1. I feel for your sticker shock on these repairs, but don't skip the clutch. The high cost of this repair is the amount of labor, so to do the clutch at a later date will greatly increase the cost.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 13:25   #4
rm22
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So, from the recommendation here are browsing other threads, I'm convinced that I should try to get a local mechanic to do the work using the SMF. Looks like everything I need to order is here: http://idparts.com/catalog/product_i...oducts_id=1954

I would greatly appreciate if someone could give me a quick confirmation before I shell out the $450 plus shipping to get the parts.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 14:03   #5
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Yes that is what you need. I see no reason a local mechanic with a good rep should not do this job. There is nothing that requires a tdi "guru" for this. Just tell the mechanic that you'd like the trans mount bolts and flywheel bolts replaced with the new ones in the kit.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 14:42   #6
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Dont know why your TDI guru don't want to work on BRM, but doing on clutch on BRM is easy as on ALH, I personaly like doing clutches on BRM more then ALH. Anyway the job is fairly easy about 6hrs of labor time and I would suggest installing LUK DMF upgraded part cost about $430 from one of venders here like boraparts, idparts or dieselgeek. I would suggest going with LUK DMF because its lot more quiter and engages very smooth compare to doing SMF conversion that chatters more then on ALH. Since you have already 200K on car I would suggest replacing pilot bearing guide sleeve as well its about $30, its probably started leaking, put fresh gear oil in. So if you would brought it to guru it would cost you roughly about $1000 parts labor and tax included, this would include DMF kit, trowout bearing, pilot guide sleeve, gear oil replaced.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 16:45   #7
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Go Herm

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Old April 13th, 2011, 16:55   #8
rm22
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Monster -- Please see my original post. I was trying not to name names, but since you did, I've already paid a visit to Herm.
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Old April 13th, 2011, 16:56   #9
rm22
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Looks like I've started a mini debate between changing over to a SMF or using the upgrading DMF. Anyone else care to weigh in on this choice before I place the order tomorrow?
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Old April 13th, 2011, 18:40   #10
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I have a SMF with a VR6 clutch and it is definitely loud, especially in the summer. I have at times wished I had a reliable DMF with a SMF "feel", but that doesn't exist. If you are considering a chip or performance upgrades in the future, get a SMF. If you are going to keep your BRM at 105 hp and like to keep things quiet and civilized, get the updated DMF.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 09:48   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2footbraker View Post
I have a SMF with a VR6 clutch and it is definitely loud, especially in the summer. I have at times wished I had a reliable DMF with a SMF "feel", but that doesn't exist. If you are considering a chip or performance upgrades in the future, get a SMF. If you are going to keep your BRM at 105 hp and like to keep things quiet and civilized, get the updated DMF.
Good point. I have put both DMF and SMF on customers BRM jettas and I really liked the LUK DMF its very quite, smooth. At first I was bit nervous about putting another DMF in but Aaron assured me that they will be fine so since then I been suggesting go that route if customer intends to keep vehicle stock.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 10:01   #12
oilhammer
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LMAO @ not working on a BRM... those are the EASIEST cars to work on of all the recent VAG products, by far! The EGR cooler is probably the most 'difficult' thing to do, given its location, but even that is not that bad if you have proper tools.

The Valeo conversion kits work well on these, and are not really very noticeably rattle-sounding at idle (you probably could not even tell unless you really listened for it). But they really are only good for stock to very mild modded engines, as they simply will not hold much torque. The Sachs conversions are a bit stronger, but seem noisier to me.

I have reservations about the Luk DMF, only because that is who supplied the earlier DMFs to VAG, before Sachs, and while they used a clutch with better clamping force, the DMF failures seemed much more common, much more rampant, and much more violent. Perhaps they have improved some, we'll see. I've just seen too many early 1.8t and 1998/1999 ALHs with holes in the bellhouse from those things, I guess.

This trans R&R is a 6hr job book time, but can easily be done by someone who knows what they are doing in less than 3, it is far easier than the ALH or BEWs, that's for sure, and those are pretty dog gone easy, too!
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Old April 14th, 2011, 11:15   #13
bghartm
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I installed a SBC stage II with SMF about 3 months ago. I dont notice any more noise that the stock. Took me a few weeks to get used to but I like it. Took me and two buddy's about 8-9 hours but I think we could easily do it in less than 6 if we did it again. I also replaced the oil.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 12:56   #14
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I can't say for the people claiming more noise, maybe it's because they expected more noise there are hearing it. You had to be standing outside our car to tell any difference and it was very slight. Well worth it for the gains, SMF for sure.
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Old April 14th, 2011, 12:59   #15
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I can hear a very obvious increase in rattling when I release the clutch pedal in neutral. Please do not tell me what I am hearing.
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