B4 1Z GTB2056VK Whitbread Build with dyno

[kooyajerms]

Finally found that fuel temp sensor. Didn't make a difference. Looks like I'm replacing the pump =(

[TDIMeister]

Upgrade opportunity! Do it right the first time and forget about it after. Install a complete ALH automatic pump (with the necessary mounting machining to fit on your 1Z), keystone mod, advance collar mod, etc. ... This would also be a perfect time to go to a New Beetle 80-pin ECU and corresponding harness to connect to the pump. Cruising shudder, if you ever had it, will be a thing of the past.

[foxracer1]

Last time i looked i couldn't find a thread on the keystone mod and advance collar mod. Everyone treats those as secret mods.

Also what all is involved in the NB ecu/harness swap? Are you saying use an early ALH ecu?

[TDIMeister]

"seek, and you shall find"
-Google 10:1

[TDIJetta99]

Not for nothing but I don't see anything in the logs that indicate a bad pump... I'd hate to see you replace the pump just for it to do the same thing when it's cold...

[kooyajerms]

Pumps already the 11mm Dave. VW remanufactured. If I were to convert, I'd move to the 2002 ecu and harness, that way tuning won't be such a slow ordeal with these chips =)

Thanks for noticing that Jason, but doubleu tf... The logging may be crap, but the idle is hunting, and going up to 3k rpms takes a lot of grunt and slight popping. It runs just like you say with the blue smoke till 100*F, the blip to 3k doesn't really resolve anything, just something I do to get the temps up faster. I'll take two videos at the same time, one from the rear, and one at the dashes.

I'd like to point to the pump considering a lot of people have been running Colt Cam Stage 2's and not been bothered with the hard running cold starts. I just don't want to lose the opportunity to replace this pump under warranty. Matt's pointing at it, and DFIS seemed convinced.

Anyone want to throw me a used 10mm or a stock cam? Not that I want to do any timing belt (equivelent) jobs in the first place. bleh.

[slow-moe]

I'd vote for the injection pump too. I've seen similar behaviour due to a stucking control collar in a pump that was stored wrong over a longer period.

[TDIJetta99]

I must have missed the part about it being under warranty.. In that case I would try another pump..

My 03 stumbles around if I try to rev it stone cold, but I think it has to do with the big cam and lower CR.. It sounds like its "loading up" so to speak.. After idling for 1 minute it's pretty good though..

[kooyajerms]

Finally an update. IP Pump replacement done.

Second 60*F morning and the missing seems to be gone, smoke is gone. Just a puff right in the beginning. Don't need to blip the pedal to make the idle stop hunting. Sits nice and steady right from the start. If I blip the pedal to 3k it will still stumble, but then again its a cold engine. Driving around though to the 100*F seems to be just fine.

It's been raining in LA, so lets see if I can remember to not park in the garage to get some even colder temps.

[JFettig]

60*F is not cold


try -20F

[kooyajerms]

Well I don't know how to freeze the engine for a better test =p. It's May! Luckily It's not 90* like it usually is.

[NoJoke]

I'm happy you found the solution! Any progress with the lift pump?

[john.jackson9213]

Originally Posted by JFettig

60*F is not cold


try -20F

In Southern Calif. 60*F is much on the cool side!

[kooyajerms]

Not yet Gus =(.

Been going to all these metal work shops to find a damn SS barb of some sort to replace the check valve. Either too thick or too thin. Then I'll have them test the fuel pump.

[Keebler145]

SS barb fittings should be easily sourced. Use something off the internet if you have to, I'm a sucker for summit racing cause they are only like 30 minutes from me haha