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Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old June 10th, 2011, 19:08   #16
Bdpprocessors
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Will be using this next month!!!

Got a question tho. this might be a stupid one buit im not to knowledgeable on our transmission or any transmissions for that matter.

Why must the rivets on the shift forks be removed?

Is this also required in the Lsd install for the 02j code egr units?

Last edited by Bdpprocessors; June 10th, 2011 at 23:20.
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Old June 11th, 2011, 07:48   #17
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Awesome thread! I have (well, my mechanic ) done the rivet replacements using this thread as a guide. Now running a long ratio 02M box with rivets done - feels indestructible now (unlike my slipping clutch )

The rivets are a known weak link, and if you shift too hard, or cock up the clutch/gear synchronisation, it can cause these rivets to break and then that usually means end of gearbox as it all seizes solid, or similar....
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Old June 11th, 2011, 14:17   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devonutopia View Post
Awesome thread! I have (well, my mechanic ) done the rivet replacements using this thread as a guide. Now running a long ratio 02M box with rivets done - feels indestructible now (unlike my slipping clutch )

The rivets are a known weak link, and if you shift too hard, or cock up the clutch/gear synchronisation, it can cause these rivets to break and then that usually means end of gearbox as it all seizes solid, or similar....
Thanks!

is there a guide somewhere on setting preload and selecting the correct shims?
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Old June 11th, 2011, 14:24   #19
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You basically install the diff with no shims. close the box doing up two or three bolts tight, measure the play in the diff using a vernier gauge (tends to be circa 1mm from experience) and you add on 0.3mm for preload (so in my example find a 1.3mm shim)

I have a whole load of shims that came with my Peloquin so if you ever find you need one, I can get one in the post.
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Old June 11th, 2011, 17:07   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devonutopia View Post
You basically install the diff with no shims. close the box doing up two or three bolts tight, measure the play in the diff using a vernier gauge (tends to be circa 1mm from experience) and you add on 0.3mm for preload (so in my example find a 1.3mm shim)

I have a whole load of shims that came with my Peloquin so if you ever find you need one, I can get one in the post.

Simple enough. Ill be picking up a donor tranny on tuesday and ordering the diff once i finish building the donor motor i wana keep my stock motor and trans incase i get too crazy and blow something up. Hince the donor drivetrain
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Old April 9th, 2012, 21:25   #21
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Did anyone ever answer the question about an 02J needing the same thing done or not with regards to drilling out the rivets? I am having an LSD installed and I want to arm the transmission guy with as much info as possible.
Thanks in advance.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 09:29   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbleu101 View Post
Did anyone ever answer the question about an 02J needing the same thing done or not with regards to drilling out the rivets? I am having an LSD installed and I want to arm the transmission guy with as much info as possible.
Thanks in advance.
To be bluntly honest, if a transmission tech installing the LSD doesn't know they need to drill rivets out, I'd ask to make sure they know how to set diff bearing preload. If they don't know about either, I wouldn't be having them do the work....
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Old June 17th, 2012, 23:48   #23
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Sorry for digging up an ancient but tremendously helpful thread, but I wanted to cover a few details that don't apply to most people and ask for clarification on some steps.

1. Will the ARP stud kit work for changing ring gears out on the differential? I need to swap the ERF ring gear onto the 4motion differential, but I really don't feel like installing a LSD in the resultant FWD gas gearbox right now. Are there any cheaper alternatives to said bolt/bearing kit?

2. You picture the bolt heads ground down on a couple of bolts, but do the bolt heads need to be removed completely or just ground down considerably? I'd really like to take the bolt heads off since they really aren't clamping anything anymore, but I want to be sure before I destroy the bolts that are now permanently installed in the shafts.

3. I'm fairly certain a good bit of grit has found its way into the gearboxes while they have been apart. What is a good way to abate it all prior to reassembly?

4. I did not remove the input shaft seal prior to disassembly. Have I caused irreparable damage, or should I just reassemble as usual?

5. A note to those who are rebuilding 4motion boxes: the differentials are different due to the passenger side axle flange inlet being splined to fit a coupler that accepts the angle gear. Also, when removing the angle gear, do not forget to remove the 6mm Allen bolt buried some 8 inches deep in the center of the passenger axle flange.

Thank you for this awesome write-up. I can't wait to do my next set of forks.
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Old June 18th, 2012, 08:51   #24
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1. Yes. No, ARP stud kit is your only option.

2. No, just ground down. Don't remove bolt head on the one that threads into the brass fork as you can't weld it. If you remove that head, you'll remove the torque holding the bolt in and be relying purely on loctite.

3. Hot tank at any automotive machine shop does wonders on the cases. Brake clean and compressed air on the gears. Re-lube gears and bearings before assembly.

4. No, but you're inviting murphy to drop in if you don't change the input shaft seal while it's apart.

5. That 6mm bolt is fun isn't it?
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Old July 28th, 2012, 23:10   #25
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ok, using this thread and matt phone help i did this mod to my "DRW" coded O2M i got from Ryan P last week. improved on a few things and when you have a brother like mine who works in a fully equipped machine shop that builds race car engines it helps.
started Friday evening and finished up this after noon.

stock open diff is out and removal of the ring gear



since we had access to the machining we set the shift forks up in the Bridgeport to drill out the rivets/roll pins and then tape it using the chuck in the mill as a guide. this way all the holes will be straight when tapped.




since the head of the bolt didn't fit directly into the rivet recess he spot faced it end mill so it would properly seat when torqued.


tapping the holes with a tap driver chucked up into the mill to keep it properly aligned

threaded for the bolt


torqued to 30 foot pounds


Last edited by sardo_67; March 29th, 2014 at 18:48.
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Old July 28th, 2012, 23:18   #26
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then you do some welding and grinding..





while he is welding i'm setting up the other fork



and now to stuff all this into the aluminum case.


went in way easier than i expected, the O2M is 10000X better than an O2J, i will never work on one of those again or even put money into one. this gear box is thought out better, designed better and a lot bigger and able to handle the higher power.

shift forks all welded up




since we had access to a TIG set up alex was able to braze the bronze shift forks to the shafts and the cap screws so they can not back out.
he also re enforced the other shift fork that does not have a roll pin in it with braze so it can not move or rotate causing problems later on.

Last edited by sardo_67; July 28th, 2012 at 23:28.
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Old July 28th, 2012, 23:35   #27
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this is a link to ALex's photobucket album with more detailed pics of the finished forks

http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...shift%20forks/






Last edited by sardo_67; July 28th, 2012 at 23:38.
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Old July 29th, 2012, 19:54   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sardo_67 View Post
went in way easier than i expected, the O2M is 10000X better than an O2J, i will never work on one of those again or even put money into one. this gear box is thought out better, designed better and a lot bigger and able to handle the higher power.
Now you see why I always recommend 02M's for any decent power build or auto to manual swap.

Glad you got it all worked out and thanks for some more great pics!
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Old July 29th, 2012, 21:50   #29
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ya the O2M is soooooo simple inside, i was really worried about opening it up and then uhhhh how the hell does this go back together hahah.

now the O2M and O2Q, what is the difference? is that just the new version of the O2M and do they make them in TDI gear versions?

also for us TDI guys in America, is it worth keeping my eyes open for a 1.8T O2M/Q that has broken gears or something internal messed up i can get for cheap then buy just a gear set? have you or another good trans guy rebuilt it with new bearings syncros and the works?
if so i'll watch Vortex a little more, maybe see about getting one from an AWD Audi TT or something hehehe
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Old August 6th, 2012, 22:11   #30
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Yet another update. I'm finally in the process of reassembling my 02M and a few things need clarified.

1. The updated Peloquin 02M diff comes with a threaded flange, plates, and bolts, rather than studs and nuts. Gary's instructions mention prelubricated bolts, though the bolts that came out of the bag seemed to have just some light oil on them and nothing too substantial. Also, no Loctite was mentioned. Is it really just as simple as threading them into the flange and torquing, or do I need to lubricate these bolts in order to achieve proper clamping? The bolts required a lot of force when tightening because of all the friction. I won't torque them until I hear back.

2. I didn't use heat to get the ring gear on; I just pressed it together with four non-marring clamps. Am I going to have issues? Should I go back and redo it with heat, or if the bolts are all torqued down, is there any way it can be on crooked?

3. Where can I purchase the shims necessary to preload the case?

4. Where can I purchase a kit containing all of the seals and o-rings necessary to reassemble this box once and not deal with a bunch of leaks?

Thanks again to Whitbread and now to Sardo for the great information and pictures. Can't wait to get my TT back on the road and spinning all four tires.
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