'84 Toyota Truck 1Z TDI Swap

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
(Note - Nov. 2017 - Photobucket ended free third party image hosting, so until I manually reconfigure each image's placement, I'll just open up my Photobucket account to the public for your perusal. Hundreds of pics in there, filed in some kind of order. Hope it's helpful.) See lists of folders on left of screen at link below:
http://s825.photobucket.com/user/truckeebiofuels1/library/?sort=3&page=1

I've pulled the 22R and transmission from my 2 years new-to-me '84 Toyota (I rebuilt both axles and did a rear disc brake conversion :D), and I will pluck the 1Z from the '97 Passat B4 (for sale) soon.

Reading and reading and reading this forum and the excellent information and write-ups available here, plus several others, in order to minimize the rookie questions, but I remain a rookie at this. :rolleyes:









My immediate question (so that I can gain a little work space in the garage) is, what's worth keeping for the conversion off the old carbureted 22R? I am keeping the mounts and radiator for now... Not sure about what else. Thanks for any suggestions.

(Feel free to ask any questions. The engine removal wasn't as easy as others' experiences - took me about 11.5 hours from the time I pulled it running into the garage, drained everything, and labeled every single connection until it was squarely situated on the pallet and ready to be sold (it's gone tomorrow). Note: don't take shortcuts - take out the whole tranny and engine. I was able to leave the fan and starter on and not remove much of the front end.)

Thanks,
cumminsfromthecold
 
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Rockwell

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Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
nice, another toyota swap. I did a swap into a 2wd. Biggest tip I have is to move the engine forward an inch or two. It was easy to do with my 2wd but may not be worth the extra effort for a 4wd. Moving the engine gained me valuable firewall clearance for the heater hoses and to run the exhaust. I didnt reuse any of the underhood toyota components. An advantage with you having a solid front axle, besides the extra axle clearance, is the better axle ratios available. Instead of the stock 4.10 ratio you can get some 3.56(?) or 3.07's to bring the highway RPM's down.
Good luck with the project and keep this updated
 

410onefour

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2008
Location
Jasper alberta Canada
TDI
2003 jetta tdi wagon, 1991 toyota mtdi
Some of the things I kept and used were the some of the sensors. Oil pressure sensor and coolant sensor if you plan on keeping the stock gauges. I also used the ignitor and ignition coil to operate the factory tach.

The power steering pump and tensioner pulley ended up getting used as well. My engine was a 22re so it had some vacuum switches which have come in handy and I have made use of some of the one way check valves found in various places in the vacuum system. I'm sure there was a few other things but this is all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck on your build!
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Looks like a really clean truck! Mine is starting to rust badly after just 2 winters here because of all the salt they use.

You are right about removing the engine and transmission together, it would have saved me a bunch of time because i ended up removing the trans later anyways. Good luck, feel free to ask anymore questions!
 

imtryin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Location
portland, OR
TDI
smashed up 98 jetta tdi soon to go into a toyota pickup
awesome! its fun to see someone else starting their's about the same time as me. ill let you know if i run into anything during the process that seems pressing you should know and would love some feedback from you as well. are you gonna use the acme adapter or build your own?
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Re ACME adapter kit

awesome! its fun to see someone else starting their's about the same time as me. ill let you know if i run into anything during the process that seems pressing you should know and would love some feedback from you as well. are you gonna use the acme adapter or build your own?
Imtryin,
Good luck with your build, too! I am using ACME's kit because it comes to my door ready to go. I've also seen the results and heard the praise of a friend here who dropped a 1.6TD into a Samurai.

LukeWilson, I got lucky with the truck. Original owner sold it to a guy who owned it for a month and couldn't turn it into a crawler b/c it was in such good shape. Bouncy ride (springs, a new seat, and shocks come after the motor's in) but a tough, reliable machine.

Thanks for the tips on what to keep off the 22R!

Motor's out the door in an hour, and then I'm off to pay rent :p, get a new 1600 lb clutch from Marlin Crawler, new input and output shaft bearings, a front bearing retainer gasket, some Ultra Grey gasket material, an intermediate plate gasket (where I separated the tranny at the wrong spot :rolleyes: ), a front oil seal, and a throwout bearing.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Transmission seals and bearings

I'm using the original G52 manual 5 speed. I separated the clutch bellhousing (full of goo and oily muck) from the transmission after removing the clutch fork boot, clutch fork, and throwout/clutch release bearing and clips. I had the new throwout/clutch release bearing pressed onto the bearing hub over at Truckee Auto and 4x4.

Meanwhile, I pulled the front bearing retainer, which reveals the input shaft bearing. It's a 21 spline shaft through an 80ml input shaft bearing on this transmission, and it needs to be replaced. To Reno tomorrow for that... I'm not tearing into gearboxes - I have enough to decipher. I pulled the front input shaft seal and the rear output shaft seal and ordered them out of Sac. through the Toyota dealer. Napa's seals didn't look like the quality of seals that I pulled. HD 1600lb clutch coming from Marlin Crawler.

The Reno gear shop will separate the transmission at the intermediate plate and press off the old input shaft bearing and then press on the new one. Hopefully while they're in there, they can evaluate the gears' condition and the wisdom or folly of doing nothing else to this transmission right now! They'll either save and permatex the gasket/seal on the transmission's intermediate plate, or they'll use a new one. I'll be saving the front bearing retainer gasket, as it's not broken and Ptex stays wet and should seal it back up just fine.

Still shopping around for a 1Z/B4 Passat manual, or at least the relevant info re. removing the engine and ECU. Off to do a boatload of cleaning...:(
 

e*clipse

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Great to see you've started a thread on your build! :)

That truck is in great shape - it is ideal for this application.

BTW, you may want to consider a stronger clutch, especially if you plan power mods in the future. I'm having some trouble with my clutch slipping intermittently.

- E*clipse
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Re. Clutches

"BTW, you may want to consider a stronger clutch, especially if you plan power mods in the future. I'm having some trouble with my clutch slipping intermittently.
- E*clipse"

E*clipse, your point is an interesting and timely one. Thanks very much for mentioning it. Here's what I've learned.

There are 1800 and 2100 lb aftermarket heavy duty clutches available. They will not work with the 8 7/8" flywheels that came on pre-1992 4 cylinder Toyota motors (my '84 included). These HD clutches will work with 1992 and newer 4 cylinder motors' flywheels, which increased in size in 1992 to 9 5/16". The flywheels on pre-1992 Toyota V6s are 9 5/16" too, and so these flywheels can handle the 1800 and 2100lb clutches.

So, I can apparently switch up to a 9 5/16" flywheel. Thing is, I got the ACME Adapters' kit with the machined 8 7/8" flywheel. I wonder if I can ship it back and get the larger flywheel and the larger clutch (1800lb) and what, if any, the mechanical and size/space ramifications will be...
 

e*clipse

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Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
I verified my info, and yes, I'm running a "super heavy duty" 1600lb clutch from Marlin. They say it can handle 900 ft-lb of torque.

Perhaps my slipping problem is oil, not the clutch. I've reduced some of it, but I may have a leaking front transmission seal.

What does 8 7/8" vs 9 5/16" refer to? Is the outer diameter the same? :confused: There may be an issue w/ starter engagement.

I know the starter for the V6 is different than the starter for the 4 cylinder - not just in power, but also mounting bolt pattern. It may be offset for a larger ring gear.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Re. 8 7/8" vs 9 5/16" flywheel

e*clipse,

All of my info is coming from Marlin Crawler. The larger 9 5/16" flywheel is from V6s. The R151 transmissions apparently had them, too. If I could find one of these larger flywheels from a '92 and later Toyota 4 cylinder, it might work.

I don't have the answer to your question about the outside diameter. I would guess that the outer diameter would be bigger and that yes, starter engagement would get complicated.

I am going to go with the 8 7/8" I got from ACME, Marlin's 1600 lb clutch, and the G52 with a new input shaft bearing! I found a Reno shop that can do it. They think they can do it without opening the transmission. Personally, I don't think they can, but what do I know. (The FSM says you can't, but the FSM says a lot of things...)

Toyota's part number for my 84's G52 input shaft bearing is PN 90363-32024-77. (It's VIN dependent here, as that bearing comes in two different widths - 20mm or 23mm.) I think that the outer diameter is the same, though (80mm). Toyota couldn't give me my specific dimensions when I asked
(!!) It's about $55. Wish I could skip it: can't.



Input shaft seal and output shaft seal part numbers (from Toyota also, as Napa's seals aren't the quality of Toyota's) are (input, aka front tranny seal) 90311-30115 and (output, aka rear tranny seal) 90311-32009.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Information Exchange?

After two and a half days laid out flat with a bad back, I've been able to cover a lot more ground on the computer and by reading all over this forum. Only thing I haven't read yet is info specific to my 1Z - I lack the manual. :rolleyes:

Perhaps someone is interested in an info exchange. I just need 1Z engine details - removal, timing belt/idler bearings/spring tensioner details, wiring and ECM diagrams, component connection details, etc... I continue scouring the web and bookmarking what I find.

To trade, I have a number of useful links I've found. I also have a hard copy Bentley FSM for 99-05 Jetta, Golf, and GTI (this can be digitized and sent however works). I have a digital copy of a FSM for 1985 and 1993 Toyota Trucks. And I have a Chilton for 70-88 Toyota Pickups if you want something only occasionally useful.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Progress

Finally, a motor and a truck.



And a '97 Passat for sale. I didn't break anything while removing the engine (because I took my sweet time, having no manual on hand). (Got a digital one, though! Can share if needed.) I did have to bend part of the battery tray out of the way (it's saveable) as I lacked a triple square socket necessary to remove the Passat's passenger side driveaxle. That made for an awkward removal, but this being my second engine removal ever, there was already plenty of awkwardness present.



1600# clutch en route, transmission I get back anytime, and adapter plate should mount.

I need to keep TDC and will painstakingly realign the VW transmission to do so.

I sent the Toyota tin plate with the 22R when I sold it :rolleyes: so will have to find a junk one for aligning things as ACME recommends. Or I could use the Toy bellhousing, I guess... I think I will need that tin plate (regardless) for the transmission inspection cover and possibly for the starter mount (I kept the starter tab that was on the 22R).

So here come the dumb questions, with thanks in advance. I've worked to minimize q's.

1) I'm planning on using the stock gauges. Upon identifying the water and oil pressure sensors, can I pull the rest of the Toyota harness?

1b) Let me back up - I still don't quite get how power is going to work here. Ignition to battery, battery to starter and alternator. Where do I tap in the ECU? :confused: Does the Toy's get pulled and replaced with the TDI's?

2) Re. the Passat harness. LukeWilson was good enough to name the 10 essential connections I'll need to maintain in the Toyota:

F47 Brake Light Switch and vacuum valve switch
G79 Throttle position sensor
F36 Clutch vacuum vent valve switch/ aka clutch pedal switch
G80 Fuel Injector needle lift sensor
J325 coolant glowplug relay OPTIONAL
G72 Intake Air Temperature sensor / aka intake manifold temp sensor
G28 RPM sensor
G62 ECT/Engine Coolant Temp. sensor
G81 Fuel temp sensor
G149 Modulating piston displacement sensor (G81 and G149 are w/in IP quantity adjuster)
G70 MAF

That's it? Glad I'll be ditching a lot of the rest of the VW harness. I dreamt it attacked me with its thousand tentacles..

What about N75, the wastegate bypass regulator valve?

So here's the q about these essential components/sensors/connections - do I pull the entire VW wiring harness (which is going to be a complete *****) or just what I need? Again, no experience doing this.

Thoughts, jokes, suggestions welcome.

Why can't I swear on this forum?

****
 
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jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
nice BP solar module "cardboard creeper" .... I used to work for a company doing RE install and I recognized the "do not stack more than XX high" lol...damn I sure learned how to use a shovel at that job!! :rolleyes:
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
you can use the stock gauges ...however you may have to use the toyota senders...I'm going to use the stock VW senders with the toy gauges...the resistance scalings are very similar between the toy/VW thermistors....I may need to extend the red scale down a little on the toy gauge just to be safe....I'll be using the VW oil pressure sender for the toyota OP warning lamp too....not sure how the passat scales but you can compare the two by dipping in each sender water hooked up to a ohmeter and slowly bring the water to a boil taking note of the readings on both as the temp climbs ...I did this with the ALH/tacoma senders...the VW seems to react much more slowly and it seems to pause somewhere just before 212f ...maybe this is why the MKIV gauge always says 190f even though vagcom says otherwise
 

LukeWilson

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Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
You can find top dead center on the 1Z/AHU engine without putting the tranny back on by aligning the vw flywheel mark exactly halfway between the top two transmission bolt holes in the engine block. I can attempt to draw a diagram if you don't understand what i'm saying. I used a punch to mark this, then swapped on the Toyota flywheel and drilled a whole through the adapter plate into the flywheel so i could insert a pin to lock the bottom end. I think i have some pictures in my build.

I used the stock Toyota gauges and kept the oil pressure switch and coolant temp sensor from the 22re. I kept the Toyota wiring for these sensors, when you're thinning out the Toyota wiring you will see what i mean.

Yes you need to keep the N75 valve as well. Honestly i haven't had mine plugged in for a couple months because it is a non-stock wastegate turbo. You will get a CEL is it isn't plugged in though.

I kept the entire VW engine wiring harness. Best i can remember, all of the mandatory sensors are plugged into the engine harness. You don't need the entire cars harness for the swap, but you might find it useful to have a whole mess of vw connectors and colored wires. I also kept the complete fan wiring harness, i haven't used it yet though. I know what you mean on the wiring harness madness. This was my first swap and when i saw that mess just about bailed out on it. Trust me though, once you bust out the wiring diagrams and start thinning it out, it really isn't so bad.
 

imtryin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Location
portland, OR
TDI
smashed up 98 jetta tdi soon to go into a toyota pickup
hey there cummins, good going on the swap so far. mine is slogging along aswell. i have been able to answer many of my wiring questions by looking through eclipses 30,000 page thread. :D im pretty sure he talks about all the harness stuff somewhere towards the middle of the thread.
-Sam
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Passat Wiring Harness

Thanks for the feedback and reassurances, guys.

A day of tracing wires on the Passat. And reading and re-reading relevant threads...

FIrst the easy questions. In the pic below, I'm looking to determine what two things are. Mystery #1 is on the firewall next to the glow plug fuse. I think it might be J325, the coolant glow plug relay, but I don't know. Mystery #2 is what I'm guessing is the hood ajar sensor (wait, is there even such a thing?)...


(1st time using photobucket's photo editing options...)

Then, there's some simple advice welcome regarding the engine wiring harness. In the Passat, it attaches to wires that go through the firewall at the driver's side and then to the fuse box/relay cluster. I am simply not sure what to do.

AC is in the way of removing the ECM harness...

Do I pull everything through under the steering wheel?

Do I pull everything out from the relay/fuse box and into the engine bay?

Do I need to be separating the taped wire bundles and chasing each individual wire?

Super unfamiliar territory here... thanks for any tips.
 
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LukeWilson

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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
Hard to see from the pics, but i am guessing #1 is the EGR solenoid just from all the vacuum hoses going to it. #2 is the hood ajar sensor, i seem to remember these cars having a light inside the hood that would turn on once it was open.

I pulled everything into the engine bay. First i marked where all the plugs came from then popped out the rubber grommets and pulled it all through. I think the AC had its own semi-separate harness that i just pulled out, mark any tie-in points to the engine harness to avoid mass confusion later.

Once i had the harness out and all the connectors labeled, i cut the tape off the harness so i could start thinning it out. You might consider using twist ties or something to try and keep it separated and in order otherwise it turns into a big rats nest (ask me how i know).

Luke
 

e*clipse

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Joined
May 9, 2007
Location
Chico, CA
TDI
Toyota TDI swap
Regarding TDC: Luke's technique works, but I probably wouldn't rely on it for a timing belt job. I would recommend putting a mark using the VW references of the flywheel and transmission (just put the mark someplace you can access it later.) You'll feel much more confident when doing a TB job.

You will want the N75 valve. If you get the upgrade bug, a VNT will certainly be on the list...

If you're in doubt at all, keep it. It doesn't hurt to have a couple extra plugs for future use.

I didn't separate (untape) the wires in the harness. I did remove as many as possible, and cut them near the harness.

You can trace wire by using digital multimeter. Many will beep when there is continuity. The only ones to really look out for are the power and ground lines, which can have multiple connections in the harness.

Any additions/changes in the harness should be protected. I used "friction tape" (available at decent auto parts stores) rather than electrical tape. It is a cloth tape similar to the stuff OE's use to wrap wiring harnesses, and is much more resistant to cracking from the hot/cold cycles found near the motor.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
1Z/AHU Wiring Diagrams

After a few days into my first TDI wiring harness, I've made a little progress.

Ian at Big Water Welding loaned me a transmission jack and can do the welding I can't. E*clipse answered some wiring questions. I'm at the point where all ECM and essential engine connections are pulled from the VW relay/fuse cluster and I spend a lot of time staring at it :eek:. I just don't know about crossing them over to the Toyota, so here goes the Toyota's interior/dash removal. (All of it is exploration for me.) E*clipse says a lot will transfer over (but not the fan or speedo, for ex.).

Drew at Auto Doctor helped a bunch, providing US (vs. German) circuit diagrams. Thanks Drew! These are actually clearly written in English (not numbers), and between the two, I can make sense of what I am looking at wire-wise.

'97 Passat TDI circuit diagrams (US style) for computer data lines, engine performance sensors, ground distribution, and instrument cluster are here.

Combine them with the German style diagrams in the Bentley manual and I can make sense of them :D

One example:



The scans don't capture the detail of each line/wire. PM me if you want HQ copies, which thus far is the only way for me to reproduce these very helpful, clear diagrams.

Woo Hoo!

:)
 
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LukeWilson

Veteran Member
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Jan 27, 2010
Location
Ottawa, ON
TDI
Toyota 4x4 TDI, 2004 Allroad TDI
I didn't have to pull my entire dash, just the gauge cluster. All 3 connections between Toyota and VW harnesses were made at the fuse box on the passenger side fender well. I am assuming your keeping the stock auge cluster so your speedo is controlled mechanically and you won't have to worry about it. I have no idea about the tach though because my truck doesn't have one.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
"I didn't have to pull my entire dash, just the gauge cluster. All 3 connections between Toyota and VW harnesses were made at the fuse box on the passenger side fender well. I am assuming your keeping the stock auge cluster so your speedo is controlled mechanically and you won't have to worry about it. I have no idea about the tach though because my truck doesn't have one. LukeWilson"

That's really encouraging, Luke! Three is the magic number. I will PM for details! Yeah, I'm keeping the stock cluster. Did you bother with a glow plug light in the cluster anywhere? I'm still debating that, as I am debating keeping cruise control.

Got the G52 transmission back 11 days after taking it in...



Got a story about it. Like to hear it? Here it goes. I was told $50 to press off the old input shaft bearing. I then budgeted $100 (2x the amount quoted). I waited a week longer than they said it would take. I called 6 hours before drving 45 miles to find out what the bill was. They had said it was ready, but upon calling back, they didn't know my balance. I drove there and heard nothing. I walk in to see a new input shaft, a new bearing, and the obviously broken old one (see pic). They'd "never had that happen on a Toyota transmission." Sucks for them, I'm thinking. I talk to the tech. I thank him for sealing the intermediate plates and ask him about having to crack it open. He said he cleaned everything and it all looked good. It does/did. I ask for the total. $192. Four times what I was quoted. Short version is I got out of there for $140 and wondering how in the hell people can do that to customers and stay in business. They broke the front bearing retainer seal that I carefully saved/extracted, too, for only a few bucks, I guess. Ultra-black will seal it up fine, and did, as I seated the front input shaft seal 11-12 ml as required, installed the transmission output seal, reattached the clutch bellhousing, clutch fork, fork clips, and throwout bearing and hub. Transmission is ready!

Is my 1600# clutch on the way? No! Was I told about 3 week delays? No. Was I told even after I called the first time to ask? No. Is there plenty to do meanwhile? Yes.
 
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gruppe_a

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Location
Lake Tahoe, CA
TDI
'91 Golf
cumminsfromthecold;3275671 Got a story about it. Like to hear it? [/QUOTE said:
This was at Driveline & Gear Service in Sparks?

If so, that's too bad. They did some work on my syncro stuff awhile back and did a great job.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
a BP aside

nice BP solar module "cardboard creeper" .... I used to work for a company doing RE install and I recognized the "do not stack more than XX high" lol...damn I sure learned how to use a shovel at that job!! :rolleyes:
jimbote,
BP's worldwide PV modules' failure of late (the 170s and 175s) has kept me employed - hence all the new cartons/creepers I have available. They're pretty perfect - cyclable, catch liquid, soft, high edges...
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
tcextreme, I did. I am now sorta delayed by that clutch's absence. I found out it was back ordered nearly two weeks after I ordered it. No foreseen delivery date. This is the third such complication with MC. I am simply sharing my particular experience. It's disappointing. Thankfully, there are alternatives I can utilize. Guess there's always more to clean. Broke, so can't order remaining parts... Just wanted to mate everything up, size it all, and move forward accordingly.

gruppe_a, good to see you on here. :) It was R D & G. Again, this might seem like my ****-talking thread, but I am simply relaying an individual experience in that story. I have seen their work and it is quality. I don't know what happened in my case. Times are tough, I understand that. Given their sealing of the intermediate plates and their cleaning of the entire thing, a solid even press, plus their eventual heartening of reason's voice, I'm not that upset about it.
 

GTiTDi

TDIClub Enthusiast, Macht Schnell! Vendor , w/Busi
Joined
Oct 18, 2010
Location
3 Spruce st Wareham, gateway to Cape Cod Massachus
TDI
'91 GTI CJAA swap,'02 Jetta wagon ALH swap, '03 GTI 1.8T rally car, '03 Sprinter 3500
Concerning the vw wiring..the engine harness is separate from the other harnesses on the passat, you should be able to unplug the connection at the fuse box once you release a locking tab on the side..the engine harness includes the clutch and brake switches, and the connector for the throttle..the plugs at the fuse panel end are white/opaque color, here is a link to a vw resource that identifies each connection of the various plugs on the fuse panel http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html this should simplify things for you.
 

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

"...this should simplify things for you."

:eek:

GTiTDi, I hope you're a woman, 'cause I'm going to kiss you.
 
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