My Compound Build /// B4v - Page 47

loudspl · April 24th, 2012, 20:39

Nope...I def. need to since I have much larger nozzles and turbo now. Car is much faster since those numbers Matt quoted from old setup

That Superflow eddy current dyno "seems" conservative, but maybe it's actually more accurate than an inertia one for our cars....supposedly it's ideal for boosted or N20 applications, where the runs won't shock the load cell and generate artificially high #s.

I think Matt said they have an inertia one there too

TDIMeister · April 24th, 2012, 20:44

With all due respect to Gus and Matt - I have the greatest respect for them both and their efforts - I have to laugh when I read about dynos that read low and are "heartbreakers", and dynos that read high and are either falsified or calibrated by no-nothings

I just wish in every case there were both extremes in the same town that each project can dyno at both facilities on the same day and post their results and let the peanut gallery pick at them. I don't really care about low- or high reading plots. I just care for them to be right. And it's pretty easy to spot based on some telltale signs to a knowing eye which is high, low and about right.

I'm certain Gus' monster has lots of upside potential. Don't blow up your engine all at once Gus, summer isn't even here yet!

bhtooefr · April 25th, 2012, 04:05

To be fair, there really are high-reading dynos - I recall someone claiming 160 whp out of a tuning box... and it turns out that the same day, on the same dyno, a bone-stock ALH did 120 whp.

(I believe that was the incident that resulted in massively overstated horsepower figures being called "Canadian wheel horsepower".)

Really, having a bone-stock car around as a reference would be damn useful for testing dynos. (I know, there'll be some variance in actual output power even then, but...)

fouckhest · April 25th, 2012, 04:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoJoke

I think we found a perfect match with .013's; Matt installed them today and actually ripped some welds on an axle.

Anyone know how much of an upgrade Raxles are vs. 6sp?

Gus I think Raxles will run you right around $1k; definitely cheaper than doing a trans swap, which will require custom axles regardless

NoJoke · April 25th, 2012, 05:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by fouckhest

Gus I think Raxles will run you right around $1k; definitely cheaper than doing a trans swap, which will require custom axles regardless

Sorry need to rephrase... currently installed is an O2M 6sp/axles; are there many cases of torn O2M axles if so at what HP?

In response to the dyno comments I'm well aware of all the inflated figures, a 1/4 mile like scubagli said is a better gauge. Nevertheless there has been quite a number of modded tdi's on that exact dyno Matt is using so there is some validity at its own ratios.

Besides I would be the first to say the setup "doesn't work" but i don't think that's the case.

In regards to fueling.... I think we found the bottleneck with the nozzles but I'm sticking with .013s since pistons are the weak point.

ryanp · April 25th, 2012, 05:52

I broke the splines off my 02Q (similar to 02M) Shaft at the weekend:

fouckhest · April 25th, 2012, 14:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoJoke

Sorry need to rephrase... currently installed is an O2M 6sp/axles; are there many cases of torn O2M axles if so at what HP?

well HP wise i think most of the R32 guys run them, and there are lots of them that are well over 500HP...so i wouldnt think that you should have issues w/O2M axles...

however, that being said, i do have Raxle O2m axles on the front of my car...but i needed new axles when i started my AWD swap, so i figured it was better to just go ahead and get them...well worth the piece of mind, i put about 1k miles on mine w/a torn inner boot and it is still good!

Rub87 · April 25th, 2012, 14:17

mine are still alive after so much wheelhop the lower middle dashboard support sheared off =)

TDIMeister · April 25th, 2012, 15:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhtooefr

(I believe that was the incident that resulted in massively overstated horsepower figures being called "West coast Canadian wheel horsepower".)

There, corrected for you.

Some places seem to tend to be populated with high-reading dynos more than others - must be the local atmosphere - we know where those general geographic regions are if not specific dynos and won't be repeated here... but they occur everywhere as do low-reading ones. Remember the magazine article 318 HP TDI? My point is that if the same car is measured on the same day and conditions on both known high- and low- dynos, the true output is somewhere in between and fanboys of both ends of the spectrum can have their fodder to chomp on. I overwhelmingly believe that "conservative" dynos are closer to the true value and even then I pay close scrutiny and am very skeptical of ANY CFs used. Atmospheric CFs more than say 2% make me suspicious.

Whitbread · April 25th, 2012, 21:57

As Gus said, when I tossed in the .013" nozzles last night, no dyno was needed to say they're making more power. I broke the weld where I shortened the passenger side axle first time I hit full boost.

At the time, I didn't have a lathe to make a sleeve so it was just butt welded. Now it has a 1.5" DOM internal sleeve (had to turn it down to 1.413"), 8 plug welds, and the butt weld. It stood up to the run today to the machine shop

.

It pulls a little harder up top now and I actually broke 1000F egt's on the street today, made it all the way to 1010F haha. I think it still wants more fuel

. Smoke on full boost was a haze at best.

Turns out the exhaust leak at the v band on the cross over pipe was from milling the turbo mount flat. It changed the angle ever so slightly so the v band didn't want to sit perfectly flat. It was very tricky cutting the bend out of the flange and not damaging either; that weld had really good penetration haha. But, got it all adjusted and no leaks now. I think the weld turned out even better than the first time haha.

Satiro · April 26th, 2012, 02:37

Looks so beautiful those weldings! really nice work. I didn't understand at all the axle fixing process, can you explain me a bit please? are the internal pipe welded by 4 welding points to each side of axle, and then just welding two sides of axles with a butt welding? excuse me, my poor english again!

If so, is the balancing done by a machine shop, once all weldings are finished? how's re-balancing process?

Thanks in advance! GREAT thread.

NoJoke · April 26th, 2012, 07:19

The good news is the .013's produce more power which seems like the choke point here unless I'm wrong. With only 1000f egt's we have a lot of room to play with.

Now the question, do we go up a size or increase pressure on the current ones? Going up a size would hurt atomization but at what point(11/12mm pump)...any educated guesses?

Chime in Matt

does "Smoke'm" have larger sizes on hand?

Rub87 · April 26th, 2012, 07:53

how did you think of increasing pressure? custom camplate? 13/14mm head?

thhat there is a haze with only 1000 degF proves atomisation or bowl/swirl is poor.. cr engine runs lambda 1.05 with very light haze, over 900 degC egt

loudspl · April 26th, 2012, 08:03

Didn't Andy hit that bottleneck with the 12mm pumphead?

13.5/14mm isn't really an option. So how to keep good atomization without ditching the pump and losing dynamic timing?

I guess rpms are also a limitation but you don't have problems with spool

JFettig · April 26th, 2012, 08:31

Ruben, how much fuel is left with your setup? Is that 270 whp or bhp that you got out of your ALH hybrid motor?