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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old November 9th, 2010, 10:38   #1
lbirunner
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Default 04 Jetta w/ 09A won't shift until ATF is warm

The cooler temps are definitely affecting my 09A trans.
I can shift into 1st and reverse when the car/trans is cold but it will NOT shift out of 1st into 2nd until the ATF warms up. Outside are temps are currently 45 - 50 degrees in morning and it takes me about 15 minutes of idling before the trans will shift.

After it's warmed up, no problem. It shifts through all gears smoothly.

Another symptom occurred this last summer when outside temps were above 90 degrees and trans was hot (after driving several miles), I would not be able to get into Reverse. I would have to wait until the car cooled down before it would grab reverse.

I can work the tools if someone can help me diagnose this problem. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old November 9th, 2010, 11:08   #2
fase2000TDI
 
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Location: RI, USA 401-919-0466
Fuel Economy: 52, 45 38
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Ever replaced the fluid? (just starting with basics...)
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Old November 9th, 2010, 11:28   #3
lbirunner
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Yes, the fluid was changed when I bought the car used, at 120k miles. The fluid was pretty ugly, I'm guessing it was never serviced but I don't know for sure.
So I've only had the car in warm weather. This will be the first winter.

A friend hooked it up to a VAG-COM. There was a 00652 code but that code only occurs if I try to drive the car cold and it doesn't shift into 2nd when it should. In other words, if I get in my car when it is cold with no CEL, and I spend the time to let it idle to warm up the fluid, I won't get any codes when I drive off because it will shift normally.
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Old November 9th, 2010, 12:11   #4
Diveguy
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try a reset, VCDS web site has the how to for the 09A
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Old November 9th, 2010, 12:21   #5
BobnOH
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since that old fluid was so nasty, you might want to another fluid change. Do these have a filter?
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Old November 10th, 2010, 04:55   #6
lbirunner
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Ok, I tried a reset and it seemed to work (although the shifts were harder then normal). But when I slowed to stop for a Stop sign one block after starting out the downshifts were aggressive, like a solenoid was stuck or something. Then I got the CEL and the trans wouldn't shift again. I'm guessing the code was 00652 as usual.

So, I tried another reset and it didn't work. Then I tried the "sport" mode reset and it shifted normally up to 5th. I made sure I didn't stop until warmed up.

Does this sound like a sticky solenoid?
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Old November 10th, 2010, 09:36   #7
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delayed upshift cold in 09A is usually n92 solenoid.

See here...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ge3&p=67770386

Alot of guys are replacing all the solenoids when they go in there.

I've had n92, n93 and n283 stick all on seperate vehicles.
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Old November 10th, 2010, 12:02   #8
lbirunner
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Now that's the link/thread I was looking for. I'll order the solenoid kit, and replace them all.

Are there any solenoids "inside" the trans? Or are they all on the outside of valve body?

Thank you.
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Old November 12th, 2010, 13:18   #9
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Look at the "how to replace 09A solenoids" thread linked below.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1521077

Edit: dont order a filter like the guy in the thread did... its not changeable without removing the trans.
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Old November 12th, 2010, 13:58   #10
lbirunner
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Yes, good thread. I put my order in yesterday. I ordered the solenoid kit and a pan gasket. The kit was $402!! They must be real special solenoids.
Thanks for the link.
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Old November 30th, 2010, 10:59   #11
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Ok, I replaced all the solenoids the weekend before Thanksgiving. And my problems have gone away. I still need to test getting into reverse when outside temp is > 90 F and trans is hot. But my cold weather issue of not shifting into 2nd and abnormal shift patterns have been resolved.
I had a little trouble with N93 until I realized I had to remove the bolt holding in the harness just above the solenoid. N93 is mounted vertically.

One of the connectors plastic cover/lock fell apart in my hands. And a harness lock also broke off. Both were very brittle. But I'm convinced they won't come disconnected. The harness is actually held in by another bundle and the solenoid connector is pretty snug without the lock.

Thanks for the help. And since I didn't have to spend thousands on a trans replacement I justified buying a VAC-COM. Yea!
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Old November 30th, 2010, 21:22   #12
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I'm glad the fix worked for you. Be sure to post up about your other problem as well.







nailed.
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Old December 1st, 2010, 06:00   #13
lbirunner
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[update]
Prior to changing out the solenoids I found that using 3.5 to 3.75 qts of ATF was needed to get normal shifts to occur, 3.0 qts was not enough (after a normal drain and refill).
After changing the solenoids I filled again to 3.75 qts and shift performance was ok (normal?).

But on a hunch, last night I opened the level check and let all the "excess" fluid drain (almost 2 qts at 35 C, vehicle level) and took her for a spin. And to my surprise no bad things happened. Shifts seemed a little quicker. For peace of mind I topped it off with 2-3 oz and sealed it up.

I know, if you do the math I would drain 1.75 qts of ATF if I opened the drain plug. But from what I understand this is the correct/Bentley method.
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Old December 2nd, 2010, 08:00   #14
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I really have no clue what your trying to convey or if your asking a question.

Are you saying your checking it without an accurate temp?
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