Replacing actuator on VNT15

Is it possible for me to replace the actuator on my vnt15 turbo without having to take apart the, intake manifold and everything in the way?

can i just do it from the bottom of the car?

thanks

Yes. Just did it on my father's car today and it's pretty easy.

All you need to do to remove the actuator is to unscrew the two nuts on top of it, and remove the clip holding it to the VNT lever (which can be a pain in the ass).

If you break the clip and don't have another one, check if your new actuator's arm is uneven and slightly pushing towards one direction. If so, then attach it to the VNT lever so that it pushes inwards and doesn't slip off of it.



Pic from: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/7214-post9.html

so to remove the actuator...i unbolt those two 10mm screws and thats it? what about the actuator rod..doesnt that somehow how to get unbolted?

or do i unbolt the two 10mm screws and unclip the "circlip" as shown in the picture? and it will all come out?

would i be able to access all this with me just jacking up the car?

Yes if you take off that clip and the bolts it should slide out just fine.

Combine17 said:

or do i unbolt the two 10mm screws and unclip the "circlip" as shown in the picture? and it will all come out?

would i be able to access all this with me just jacking up the car?

Click to expand...

It's not that hard to access from under the car. It can get kind of tight, and there are things in the way preventing you from getting a good view of the actuator, but you can move your head behind the subframe (I think) to see what you're doing. There's a heat shield that might need to be removed, but it's the #1 easiest piece to remove on the car.

The biggest pain in the ass is taking off the clip.

make sure you calibrate the new actuator BEFORE installation, along with re-checking once you have it in. make sure the locknut is snug, too. and one more tip that i read- tie sewing thread around the new circlip; it will save you a headache. but to answer your question- yes it is accessible with the car on jacks.

According to the writeup, it's accessible from either above or below using a 10 mm hinged ratchet box wrench like the one in the picture. I have to do mine in the next day or two, and I would prefer to work from the top. Can anyone comment on whether this is easier or harder?

Thanks!

Best wishes,
Jerry

I wouldn't even try it from the top without other parts removed or child sized arms. Get it from the bottom with the car up maybe 6" higher than the ramps. Remove the clip first, anything you can do to recover the clip is smart. You do need to adjust the rod length with the actuator installed.

by saying i need to calibrate the actuator first...does that mean i have to adjust the rod length?

yes. You need to check and adjust with everything hooked up

BobnOH said:

I wouldn't even try it from the top without other parts removed or child sized arms.

Click to expand...

The myturbodiesel.com writeup here ...

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/VNT-wastegate-adjust.htm

... says you can do it from on top if you remove the two hoses in the way. I did that and found it very reasonable to do from above. I don't have a lift, and I'm far more comfortable if I don't have to get up and down off the ground.

The old actuator was completely shot. It's amazing the car could run so well with such an important part messed up.

In the myturbodiesel.com writeup, at the bottom of page two, there's a link to a PDF file with the VW specifications for doing the job, including how to precisely set the length of the actuator rod using a feeler gauge and MityVac. It was not difficult to follow those instructions, which left me confident the actuator adjustment is correct.

Best wishes,
Jerry

from the top

I did it from the top. I removed the elbow hose between the EGR valve and the intercooler. I also removed the intake connection between the MAF and the turbo. Plenty of room to work after that. The clip is an 'E' clip can be popped off with a small straight blade screw driver. I lost the clip. I took the actuator to the hardware store and used the rod hole as a gauge for a replacement clip. I got several sizes.

Once back at the car I tested for the correct clip fit to the VNT shaft on the turbo (without the actuator rod in the way) Once I confirmed the correct fitting size, I hid the other clips. The sewing thread idea is a good one. It will take a few tries to get it on with the actuator rod in place.

Be sure to visually inspect the vacuum lines. The hose from the n75 to the actuator was shot on my car. Also the hose to the bomb was frayed and leaking.

The dealer and another independent mechanic, both declared this turbo shot. Car runs better than it has in ~30k miles. $55 for the actuator and $25 for 2 meters of vacuum line.

I calibrated the rod length to the old unit prior to installation. Once everything was installed. I fired up the motor and rev'ed the motor and watched for full movement of the VNT arm on the turbo.

Good luck.

-Bill

where did u get ure actuator for 55 bucks! :O

Combine17 said:

where did u get ure actuator for 55 bucks! :O

Click to expand...

Banned subject I guess, his post and my reply got deleted. Look up "prothe".

edit: Nevermind my reply is in another thread.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=298590

Avoid Prothe and his garbage.