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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old October 9th, 2010, 13:07   #1
cboozer0511
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Default oil coming out of egr valve

I have an 01 jetta tdi and i have a decent amount of oil coming out of the egr valve and coving my valve cover. What could be causing it? blowby?
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Old October 9th, 2010, 13:34   #2
migbro
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Default EGR Valve Weeping

Quote:
Originally Posted by cboozer0511 View Post
I have an 01 jetta tdi and i have a decent amount of oil coming out of the egr valve and coving my valve cover. What could be causing it? blowby?
I recently dismantled a failed EGR valve from my 2003 Golf. Not an easy thing to do, btw, as it's not designed to come apart. Had to grind the cap off.

The oil is coming from your intake and from the recirculating exhaust gas flow. The EGR valve contains a piston that is raised and lowered by vacuum in response to commands from your ECU. The piston slides in a metal bushing. As the EGR cycles, the piston moves up and down in the bushing. As it does so, small amounts of oil pass through the annular clearance between the piston and the bushing. It's my guess that this process is accelerated by the presence of soot - carbon deposits - between the piston and bushing which wear the bushing and piston, increasing the clearance between them and allowing progressively more oil to pass into the space underneath the EGR diaphragm. Also, the intake air is pressurized (by the turbo), so that once the bushing is worn, small amounts of air/oil may flow continuously through the bushing while the engine is running.

The EGR has two small holes - one each side - through which the leaking oil will flow. These two holes are not designed as weep holes, though they
function that way. The holes allow the air under the EGR diaphragm to remain at atmospheric pressure as the EGR operates and the EGR diaphragm moves up and down.

Bottom line. It's only a cosmetic problem, not a functional problem, so you can safely ignore it.

If you must fix it, the only way is to replace the EGR valve as the EGR valve is not serviceable.
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Last edited by migbro; October 9th, 2010 at 15:27.
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Old October 9th, 2010, 16:49   #3
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Perhaps you are talking about the black rubber grommet & plastic crank case vent assembly that plugs into the valve cover? I can imagine this could leak covering the whole valve cover.

Last edited by josh8loop; October 9th, 2010 at 16:52.
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Old October 10th, 2010, 02:50   #4
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no I have had the same issue ever since I disabled my egr... it weeps out of the hole, I was considering plugging these holes. I was told not to plug the hole if I had an operational EGR, but an idea was thread a plug in, and route your leaking oil somewhere else? catch can? a little one but who knows... idea.

I am assuming since the holes are for a WORKING egr, that if ones egr is not in operation, we could plug it?

Other wise, clean it everytime you fill up!
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Old October 10th, 2010, 08:00   #5
migbro
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Originally Posted by SmokeFree View Post
no I have had the same issue ever since I disabled my egr... it weeps out of the hole, I was considering plugging these holes. I was told not to plug the hole if I had an operational EGR, but an idea was thread a plug in, and route your leaking oil somewhere else? catch can? a little one but who knows... idea.

I am assuming since the holes are for a WORKING egr, that if ones egr is not in operation, we could plug it?

Other wise, clean it everytime you fill up!
If you plug those holes on a working EGR valve then the EGR valve will quickly get stuck open - i.e EGR on all the time - as the space under the diaphragm becomes pressurized and the EGR piston is permanently raised.

If your EGR valve is non-operational because the EGR valve diaphragm is damaged - holed, torn, etc. - then you could plug those holes without a problem. You can check the condition of the diaphragm by using a Mity-Vac to apply vacuum to the EGR valve (engine off, of course and flexible hose to EGR valve removed). If the piston does not move, your EGR valve diaphragm is damaged.

If your EGR valve is non-operational because you have disconnected the vacuum hose or for some other reason, but the EGR valve diaphragm is intact, then plugging the holes will again cause EGR to be on all the time.
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Last edited by migbro; October 10th, 2010 at 08:05.
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Old October 10th, 2010, 08:17   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboozer0511 View Post
I have an 01 jetta tdi and i have a decent amount of oil coming out of the egr valve and coving my valve cover. What could be causing it? blowby?

this is another option, will fail a smog test (If there is diesel emission tests where you are)

http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Ca...e+Pipe+%26+EGR
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Old October 11th, 2010, 18:12   #7
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thanks for the info everyone! i'm considering doing what bluesmoker suggested as there are no emissions tests in our area. i assume this will cause the check engine light to come on. my friend has the vag-com software is there a way to fix the light with that? this is prob a dumb question but why is there oil in the egr in the first place?
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Old October 11th, 2010, 18:19   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboozer0511 View Post
thanks for the info everyone! i'm considering doing what bluesmoker suggested as there are no emissions tests in our area. i assume this will cause the check engine light to come on. my friend has the vag-com software is there a way to fix the light with that? this is prob a dumb question but why is there oil in the egr in the first place?

no vag com will not turn off the cel

you need a chip tune from RC, malone ect
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Old October 11th, 2010, 18:29   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by migbro View Post
Bottom line. It's only a cosmetic problem, not a functional problem, so you can safely ignore it.
Except they can get bad enough to be a little bit of a fire hazard. I just bit the bullet and replaced mine. $120 for a new one a member never installed. I apparently caused it as it only leaked after I used degreasers on it while cleaning it.
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Old October 11th, 2010, 20:20   #10
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Except they can get bad enough to be a little bit of a fire hazard. I just bit the bullet and replaced mine. $120 for a new one a member never installed. I apparently caused it as it only leaked after I used degreasers on it while cleaning it.
Well, I hadn't really thought about the fire hazard angle. Good point.

The degreaser may have come in contact with the internal diaphragm. Not too difficult to do.

I tooefed my EGR valve by overheating it when I cleaned it. Found a used unit for not too much money. Live and learn.
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Old October 11th, 2010, 20:30   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboozer0511 View Post
this is prob a dumb question but why is there oil in the egr in the first place?
There's no way to know really. If only someone who had taken one apart had taken the time to explain exactly where the oil comes from at 4:34pm on 10-9. Oh well.
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Old October 11th, 2010, 20:58   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by migbro View Post
If your EGR valve is non-operational because you have disconnected the vacuum hose or for some other reason, but the EGR valve diaphragm is intact, then plugging the holes will again cause EGR to be on all the time.
So, I am confused. I thought when the valve is in the closed position/no vacuum, that the EGR is off.

I have had the same oily situation and a broken ASV arm, so I decided to unhook both actuators and vacuum lines. I assumed that this would act as a "Race Pipe" and fix the oil problem. Obviously, I am mistaken.
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Old October 11th, 2010, 21:14   #13
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Originally Posted by mikey141414 View Post
So, I am confused. I thought when the valve is in the closed position/no vacuum, that the EGR is off.
Yes, that's correct. No vacuum means EGR valve closed, hence exhaust gas recirculation is off. That does not stop pressurized charge air flowing through a worn EGR valve piston bushing however, bringing oil with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey141414 View Post
I have had the same oily situation and a broken ASV arm, so I decided to unhook both actuators and vacuum lines. I assumed that this would act as a "Race Pipe" and fix the oil problem. Obviously, I am mistaken.
Yes, afraid so. This shuts off exhaust gas recirculation but does nothing to stop the air/oil leakage through the EGR valve piston/bushing.

Since the oil leaking from the EGR valve comes primarily from the charge air, I wonder if excessive oil leakage at the EGR valve might be a warning of impending turbo (oil seal) failure. Something to think about.
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Last edited by migbro; October 11th, 2010 at 21:18.
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Old October 11th, 2010, 22:20   #14
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Awesome! I have been looking for a good excuse to get a bigger turbo!!
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Old October 12th, 2010, 01:23   #15
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Can oil damage the timing belt? If so I wouldn't ignore a leaking EGR valve.
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