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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old November 10th, 2014, 20:53   #61
Nuje
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**Status update**
So, it would appear that the vacuum pump is NOT the problem at all, but rather, the bearing cap / valve cover interface.
I made sure I had a good coating of Dirko RTV (boraparts recommendation for replacing the oil pan) at that place where I had the sputtering oil, gave it 24 hours to cure, and sure enough - no more leak.
Being that the valve cover didn't leak before....and it leaks with another valve cover I have sitting around....that would mean the bearing cap doesn't have quite enough height to it to properly seal with the valve cover....?
(Brand new head from Franko6 - which I was told over the phone was "OE"....but when I got it, turns out it's an AMC head. )
Or am I missing something?
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Old February 12th, 2015, 16:18   #62
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Did any one try these Viton o-rings?

3mm X 74mm V75 Viton O-ring Black

I have a ALH in here that is only making 12" of vacuum. I guess I will give this a try, before I make the customer spend a whole bunch of money.
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Old February 13th, 2015, 09:39   #63
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You might have a loose nipple. I take a punch and peen the rolled edge in a couple of places then apply a glob of RTV.

The main body o-ring will not impact the vacuum output (output? vacuum?)
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Old December 16th, 2015, 10:48   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runonbeer View Post
You might have a loose nipple. I take a punch and peen the rolled edge in a couple of places then apply a glob of RTV.

The main body o-ring will not impact the vacuum output (output? vacuum?)

Sorry to bring up this old thread, but do you punch the section in red?

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Old December 16th, 2015, 20:00   #65
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Here is a simple drawing showing a section through the nipple. During manufacture, the nipple is set into its hole, then the lip of the hole is rolled over to secure the nipple.

As the engine rocks back and forth during acceleration and deceleration, the booster hose tugs on the nipple. This, over time, pulls the lip up slightly and you get a loosey-goosey nipple. Whatever seal is underneath the nipple will tolerate a bit of looseness, more than that and you get a vacuum leak

The pump needs to be off the car as you just can't get good access with a hammer if it's on the car.

Chuck it in a vise. Don't clap the vise on the area where the o-ring goes, you don't want to mar that surface or you could get a oil leak.

Take a punch and put it on the edge of the lip, parallel to the nipple as per the red arrow. Give it one good whap with a hammer. Go around the lip with the hammer and punch, I do 10 or 12 hits all around the lip.

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Old December 17th, 2015, 04:51   #66
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Thank you Todd, I'm a more visual learner so that helped greatly!
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Old December 17th, 2015, 07:25   #67
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I've been having bad luck resealing these pumps. I'm pretty sure the o-ring I'm using is just a little too fat. Sometimes I put them back together and they only make like 10-15 in Hg. Worse than before.
So I think that the size of the main body o-ring can affect vacuum output.

And as far as peening over the roll on the nipple, sometimes they just end up cracking.

I'm thinking about trying fiberglass here but that seems likely to crack as well particularly if you get the hardener mixed in a little too hot such that you have a brittle resin.

A real solid solution would be to mill out the rolled lip, remove the nipple and the crispy shrinky-dink o-ring on it and then TIG it back onto the body.
Once you have paid someone with these skills, you might as well have bought a new one for $200. Although the pierburg pumps I'm getting look like half the case was cast in a high school class on aluminum casting. Very poor quality appearance. I have yet to buy a genuine VW pump to compare and they list for about $330 which isn't that bad considering you probably have gotten at least 200K miles out of a pump before it starts to fail.
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Old December 17th, 2015, 07:38   #68
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I had the same experience. Maybe the o ring store (linked above by 4 ring king) would have a thinner one that might work.
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Old December 17th, 2015, 09:20   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runonbeer View Post
I'm thinking about trying fiberglass here but that seems likely to crack as well particularly if you get the hardener mixed in a little too hot such that you have a brittle resin.

A real solid solution would be to mill out the rolled lip, remove the nipple and the crispy shrinky-dink o-ring on it and then TIG it back onto the body.
Once you have paid someone with these skills, you might as well have bought a new one for $200.
One of the thoughts I had was to drill a hole in each side of the aluminum neck around the nipple, and thread them so that I could put a couple short stainless set screws in there to hold the nipple tight. I would still be putting the RTV silicone on there as a final seal anyway...so as long as the nipple was tight, the rest should be an OK fix.
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Old December 17th, 2015, 09:42   #70
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What's wrong with plain old RTV around the nipple base? I used it and had no problems afterwards...

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Old December 17th, 2015, 22:15   #71
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I've never looked, so I'm just tossing this out in case no one has ever though of this approach- can one tap some threads there and install a threaded nipple (sealed appropriately of course)? Is there just no meat underneath? (might be able to get someone to fab up a better solution? could be cheaper than a new pump)
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Old December 18th, 2015, 08:11   #72
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Or machine a aluminum nipple and weld it in the hole. I have a lathe and an aluminum welder and a "supply" of used or "bad" pumps, so maybe I should tool up.
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Old December 18th, 2015, 09:51   #73
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Send in five loose pumps and get one fixed one back, or just get cash for what you send in? Or something like that.
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Old December 18th, 2015, 10:06   #74
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Richard take one of those nipples out and look at it. I think it has some guts to it that may or may not be important.

If I were going to take the weld approach I'd want to have the rolled portion of the case milled cleanly away. Then it would remain to be seen whether the old nipple could be used or if it would be necessary to create a replacement piece.
If the latter, it may be possible to make it a press fit without required welding.

Then of course we also need to find the suitable size for the o-ring between the case halves.

I'm afraid though that some of these pumps that make weak vacuum suffer from wear on either the inside of the case or on the plastic "vanes" that scoop around in there. This would pretty much render them useless and would compromise the potential core exchange deal. I'm just thinking that since pierburg sees fit to use a new inner case half (albeit poorly built) then there must be a reason why. The outer case half of every pump I've gotten looks like a "recycled" piece.
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Old December 18th, 2015, 10:18   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
I had the same experience. Maybe the o ring store (linked above by 4 ring king) would have a thinner one that might work.
I have a local source for viton o-rings that I use for my special size BRM turbo inlet seals (which are also probably too fat. Very difficult to install but 100% effective at stopping the oil leak that ruins the heater hoses). Also use them for PD & CR charge pipe seals, ALH EGR seals & pump head seals.

It will be mid January before I'm back in the shop but I'll take an open vacuum pump over there and see if one of their techs can help select the correct size.
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