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Old January 14th, 2013, 20:21   #46
runonbeer
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you don't need to drain coolant or disturb the flange on the head at all. just pop loose the connector for the middle coolant GP and the pump will slip past the plugs.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 05:25   #47
_MattMan
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*** STATUS UPDATE ***


I ended up replacing the pump and seal but in the process I noticed the DIY gasket I used appeared to have melted or dried up so maybe I used the wrong DIY gasket sealant. I went ahead and installed the pump and seal any way.

Since all of this and several thousand miles and months later, last night during some maintenance (Creature of habit) I wiped in this area and may have noticed some oil again………

It appears to be in the same area so that means it’s got to be a surface issue on the head.

If this is the case, I will let you know how my next step goes as it was recommended I use Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker Part# 81878.

I was told to apply the RTV to the pump / head area but to lightly tighten the part and to allow it to sit get tacky before fully tightening it down and let sit for a day.

Here we go again, fix, test mode, track and report - ….geeezzzzz


By the way, during all of this I never once had to disconnect or drain any fluids, besides having the need for a angled (Offset) boxed end wrench, the job is pretty straight-forward.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 06:35   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpoopie View Post
When you removed that end cam bearing cap, did you place a small dab of rtv under the cap ends against the head? If you dont it can leak from between the head and cap.
Can't remember if I did that or not. I know I loosened the cam bearing end cap to realign so the vac pump to head/cap bearing cap mating surface was as flush as I could get it. Then I followed that by using some really fine sandpaper to ensure the entire sealing surface was true. Come to think of it, I'm not convinced I did add sealant to the bottom section of the cam bearing end cap. Drat! At least the oil leak is at worst annoying(just some oily wetness) and certainly doesn't demand immediate action.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 07:32   #49
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If my leak dide come back , its so small that is not worth loosing any sleep over. Although its going to bug me if I can't stop it as it's getting my clean engine dirty.
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Old February 13th, 2013, 07:04   #50
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Here is a question...Last night I was looking at my engine and noticed that my vacuum pump nipple was wet with oil and looked like it misted onto the valve cover allen cap screw. In my repair job of the vacuum pump I used a ball peen hammer to gently tap the aluminum down onto the nipple base to help stabilize it mechanically followed by cleaning and application of UltraGrey RTV to seal air from getting in. This is a vacuum port not pressure port. Why the heck would oil mist come from there?
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Old January 13th, 2014, 16:57   #51
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After reading this thread I decided to go after my vacuum pump oil leak. If you attempt this repair, please take the time to validate your vacuum pump performance before attempting to drive your car. I installed the o-ring that came from a Mann filter kit for my ALH (which measured approximately 3.35mm) and went for a drive only to find that I've lost enough vacuum to properly operate my brake booster.

When I got home I connected the vacuum gauge and was only measuring about 12.5" Hg at idle directly off the pump to eliminate other common leakage points as a source of low vacuum readings. I tried sealing the outlet (or is it inlet?) connection on the pump after reading several threads on here about failures at that location with no change in performance (JB Weld first, then UltraGrey RTV) the second time.

I took my vacuum pump back apart and reinstalled the original o-ring which was flattened and compression set along with some Loctite gasket eliminator. It measured between 2.15 and 2.20mm. I figured at this point it was either going to work or I was going to have to buy a pump, so I'll give it a try - I'd rather have a pesky oil leak than insufficient vacuum to drive my car.

With the old seal installed vacuum was back up to ~24" Hg at idle. It appears that the seal was too thick which caused bypass flow around the sides of the pump vane. It definitely looks like I didn't get the pump halves tightened appropriately when the ALH o-ring was installed, either due to being afraid of stripping the threads in the casing or because the o-ring was too thick.
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Old June 7th, 2014, 18:35   #52
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Did anyone ever find a solution to this. Mine leaks and I'm still not for sure what to replace. Thanks
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Old October 30th, 2014, 14:28   #53
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Having a similar problem: Replaced the head and of all the things I thought I'd be challenged by/with, a leaking vacuum pump was not among them.

Mine sounds a lot more severe that what people are reporting here, though; mine is almost spitting an oily mist - like drive it around the block and I have a little puddle of oil sitting in the little corner formed by the vacuum pump/head junction facing frontwards.

After trying buying a new seal, replacing that with the old seal, putting RTV around the perimeter and still having the same problem, I was cleaning out the channel on the VP in which the seal lays and I noticed a tiny little scratch that turns out to be almost a "nick" - like with a fine pick, you can feel that there's a bit of depth to the "scratch".

Being that it's in the area of where I get the leak (2pm if you're looking at the vacuum pump surface that mates to the head, where you lay in the seal), I'm really hoping that's the issue (although, at $250 for a new VP, I'm not all that happy about it); to test my theory, I put some RTV into the little nick (it's maybe 0.2mm long maybe 0.1mm "deep" (if that)), then put the seal back in am gonna let it sit for a day and see if it at least changes the symptoms (hopefully for the better).

If nothing else, I felt better identifying what the issue is/was (if indeed, this is the case), because I was starting to go nuts trying to figure out what the
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Old October 30th, 2014, 15:24   #54
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are you sure that the oil gallery plug is installed and tight? It's right there in that area.
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Old November 1st, 2014, 00:11   #55
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Oil gallery plug? To quote a famous (or any) Frenchman, Qu'est-ce que c'est?
(What's that?)
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Old November 3rd, 2014, 18:20   #56
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Go inspect your old head. You'll see the plug I'm talking about
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Old November 9th, 2014, 15:30   #57
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Oil galley plug is present and accounted for, plus, the leak is coming from the top part of the vacuum pump - see photo.

That's after running maybe 5 minutes - pooled oil already.
Holding a clean rag at that area, it's spitting from where the arrow is pointing. Everywhere else around the circumference is perfectly dry and clean.
Quick review of what I've got and what I've tried:
- vacuum pump didn't leak when I took it off
- why did I take it off? initially to do timing belt, then discovered lifter damage so replaced head
- which means, this isn't an OE head, but rather, a replacement head (AMC, I believe) from Franko6
- new seal(s) (currently on the third one of those)
- RTV under the bearing cap
- RTV under the valve cover - at corners of bearing cap, as well as all the way around the top
- different valve cover (used)
- different vacuum pump (also used)

Being that it's so isolated, I'm thinking is has to be related more to the valve cover/bearing cap junction than the vacuum pump....but I'm out of ideas as to what to try next. I'll spend the money on a new valve cover if necessary, but being that it leaks exactly the same, regardless of which valve cover or vacuum pump I've tried....?

Help?
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Old November 9th, 2014, 17:51   #58
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I'd try reseating that cam cap.
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Old November 9th, 2014, 20:07   #59
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Yep! Also you can try and take off the vac pump to hold a good straight edge against the side of the head. The bearing cap should be exactly in line all the way to its top with the edge of the head. If it's not I'm afraid it's a problem with the head
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Old November 9th, 2014, 23:00   #60
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Thanks guys. I've re-seated the bearing cap three times now (a bit more RTV each time) and it doesn't really seem to affect the symptoms.

I've only been looking at the seam that the bearing cap creates with the head and that's perfectly flush, but hadn't thought to consider the vertical line it creates. Brand new head from Franko6, so I hadn't considered that to even be a possibility.

With that said, of course, in the absence of anything else....maybe that indeed is it (?).
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