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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old February 20th, 2018, 06:51   #6856
Stromaluski
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When I took my mk3 apart, I found that my Intake Pipe was trashed. Both tabs at the turbo were broken off and the hose was split, as well. Did a google search for the part number and came up with an eBay auction for a replacement from Latvia that didn't *quite* match the part number, but was close enough that I figured I'd give it a shot. Here's what I received as a replacement. The only things different that I notice is that it does not have the CCV Heater, and it does not have the same clearancing on the back side. Hopefully it'll still work for me, though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Vol...Q/202183457050



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Old February 20th, 2018, 06:53   #6857
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Hi! Yup, I'm in Belgium I think I'm the only regular here from Belgium.
Still working on the full restoration of my B4. 3 years in now. Hope to start the engine soon but I am so busy with work, little time for the B4 at the moment Goal is to drive this summer though!
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Old February 21st, 2018, 13:48   #6858
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About 2 weeks ago our white B4 showed definitive blown head gasket signs. Finishing up the job right now with a bunch of downtime for fixing things while I’m there. Not the least of which is removing the 1/8-1/4” slot crap from the intake ports. I uses a hybrid cleaning method of propane fire and soaking in solvent. They aren’t perfect, but they won’t be indistinguishable from brand new. Had to use a water hose to flush free chunks out. For the record, I have the EGR cooler.

While I was there, I refurbed my MityVac handpump with new lube. I can build 30 PSI again, now. This GT1544 also cracks at 8-9 psi and moves at 10 psi, just like my old one. Looks like the thread pitch on the actuator is ~1 psi/revolution and I upped the pressure to 10.5 just because. Others have reported a much lower fracking pressure, but I’m
Confident that no one has done anything to this turbo. Btw, minimal radial play and no discernible axial play. Blades on the compressor look wonderful.

The head had light scoring from the old HG. The block had *none* whatsoever. I’m going to adjust the tune to drastically reduce/turn off the EGR along the normal driving conditions so I don’t have to burn out the intake manifold again. Speaking of which, burn plus pressure washer *up* the intake ports does clean it fully, unlike the cutaway I posted many years back. Still need to tap the weep hole for a drain. What’s the threading others have used?

Anyhow, fully lubbed 12.9 bolts were used with a thick washer + hardened washer setup as before. Reduced friction for torquing me as greater clamping force at the same torque level, thus the 12.9’s yield a benefit. Along with the sticky Permatex copper gasket stuff. I used a bit of twine to secure the new HG to the head & EM, which worked well since I couldn’t find my 3/8” aluminum rods I’ve previously used for alignment.

Since we have updated nozzles, 520’s I think but I’ll have to check notes, and a cleaned head, and a tad higher opening pressure on the turbo, I’ll probably tweak the boost & N75 maps too while adjusting EGR, after flushing fluids. Don’t want to clean that intake manifold again if I don’t have too and I want this car to have a bit more oommf like mine when it was stock.
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Old March 5th, 2018, 10:21   #6859
Steve Addy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stromaluski View Post
When I took my mk3 apart, I found that my Intake Pipe was trashed. Both tabs at the turbo were broken off and the hose was split, as well. Did a google search for the part number and came up with an eBay auction for a replacement from Latvia that didn't *quite* match the part number, but was close enough that I figured I'd give it a shot. Here's what I received as a replacement. The only things different that I notice is that it does not have the CCV Heater, and it does not have the same clearancing on the back side. Hopefully it'll still work for me, though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Vol...Q/202183457050



Curious as to whether your new part will work. The only thing I can think of that's back there that would create a clearance problem would be the EGR cooler / piping.

It's also possible if it won't fit, to gently heat with heat gun and push in slightly until it does clear.

Also, IDK how the new one is made but I was under the impression that the ccv heater could be removed, so maybe the new one can be removed too? Just a couple thoughts.

Also for my B3V sent MFA cluster to Derek for modification. The cluster was working properly but it should have the two caps replaced and then reprogrammed for 4 cylinder use. I have replaced the caps before but it was just easier to have him do it during the reprogramming. Can't wait to get it back.

Steve
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Old March 5th, 2018, 11:00   #6860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Addy View Post
Curious as to whether your new part will work. The only thing I can think of that's back there that would create a clearance problem would be the EGR cooler / piping.

It's also possible if it won't fit, to gently heat with heat gun and push in slightly until it does clear.

Also, IDK how the new one is made but I was under the impression that the ccv heater could be removed, so maybe the new one can be removed too? Just a couple thoughts.

Also for my B3V sent MFA cluster to Derek for modification. The cluster was working properly but it should have the two caps replaced and then reprogrammed for 4 cylinder use. I have replaced the caps before but it was just easier to have him do it during the reprogramming. Can't wait to get it back.

Steve
I'm in the middle of doing a VNT conversion on my car, using a BHW exhaust manifold/turbo, so I think it's going to work fine for me. I'm not sure whether or not it would work fine on a stock application, though, without the clearancing on the back. I'll look closer at the CCV heater, but am not terribly worried about it. Looked like it may be a good option for somebody with a stock car having trouble finding a replacement, though.
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Old March 12th, 2018, 13:42   #6861
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Pulled the suitcase muffler off the sedan. It dropped about 2 weeks ago and I’ve been avoiding the fix.

Finally put the car on ramps and investigated the situation. After the muffler was in my hands, it was a lot worse than expected. It’s been hissing for a longggg time...

Spent about $20 in some clamps, couplers and a 90į bend and it was a quick fix. I didn’t feel like dragging the welder out for the tubing or to attach the hanger point, in front of the suitcase. A custom piece of 12 ga Romex was pinched under the clamp and looped through the rubber hanger. Seems to work perfectly, but I cut the hanger off the suitcase and tossed it in a hardware bucket, just in case....

-Todd
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Old March 18th, 2018, 18:49   #6862
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IP reseal, Diesel Purged, clutched alternator pulley, interior & exterior cleaning & getting ready to return it to use as my daily driver. Next on the list is a suspension refresh. If any one has a decent set of tan leather seats & door cards they are willing to part with, I am interesting in talking.
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Old March 18th, 2018, 18:55   #6863
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Diagnosed a crazy clunking, that occurred while en route to a friend’s house today. Upon getting the car in the air, it appears a portion of the rear shock bushing blew through the upper spring hat.

This is on the wagon, so I’m not looking forward to the interior disassembly.

-Todd
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Old March 19th, 2018, 04:09   #6864
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It's pretty easy on both. I've done them so many times I could do them in my sleep.
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Old March 19th, 2018, 18:03   #6865
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I pulled the trim out if the car, to expose the top of the shock. That was the part that I was dreading.

Should have placed a space heater in the car and I ended up breaking 2 clips. I spent a bit of time cleaning, scarring and reattaching them. They’re probably stronger than original and unless you pull the trim, you’d never see the repair.

Anyway, the top if the shock is definitely clunking around. Been a few years since I did rear shocks, so I don’t recall how they’re supposed to be attached. I do recall some type of plastic piece at the top and that’s not there.

Supposed to be snowing tomorrow into Wednesday, so I’ll do some research and revisit later.

-Todd
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Old March 24th, 2018, 16:16   #6866
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Got back to the clunking rear shock. From the wheel well, this is what I was seeing. Something isnít right...




Put the car in the air with the Quick Jack. Bought this about 6 months back and Iím still on the fence if I like it. I probably only used it 5 times.





This was the culprit... pulled some spare parts, from a car that I parted.




Wire wheeled the rust off the spring perch and sprayed some paint. There was no dust boot that came off, so I used an old Rabbit bump stop and dust boot. The bump stop is the same length as the B4ís so I donít foresee any issue.

I understand the concept of the plastic thing at the top, but I wasted more time trying to get it to latch. I ended up reaching in and hand threading the short retaining bolts. Itís not latched, but itís installed....




Road tested the car and all is good. Reinstalled the plastic trim and cleaned up. Time for a nap.

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Old March 24th, 2018, 20:40   #6867
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The plastic thing at the top is just to hold the shock while you start the bolts. If it doesn't line up just remove it, rotate it 90į, and pop it back on.

That quick jack looks handy.

I infrequently use the OEM dust boots since they don't last. I've switched to Rancho or Skyjacker shock boots and just cut them to is length.
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Old March 25th, 2018, 00:02   #6868
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I like the looks of the quick jack too...

Steve
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Old March 25th, 2018, 05:57   #6869
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I actually tried a Rancho boot. I didn’t like the fact that I’d need to cut it, to fit the bump stop. The Rabbit boot/cover is hard plastic and will never fail, unless it somehow breaks... it’s probably close to 40 years old.

If I could actually pull into my garage, the Quick Jack would be better, but if I could pull into my garage I’d have a 2 pole lift, Max Jack or something with more lift.

Since I can’t leave it out, it’s not as convenient. Grabbing a standard floor jack is faster, for most tasks.

-Todd
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Old March 25th, 2018, 07:44   #6870
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Finishing up the timing belt job. The old tensioner I removed look like this when I took it off, and I'm still trying to understand how that happened.



I did this job the first time right about 60,000 miles ago when I bought the car, and then again now. The first time I did it I replaced the water pump, the intermediate shaft seal, the cam seal and cleaned the intake. This is my "new" tensioner (actually 13 years old!) installed.



About 20,000 miles ago I had to do the head gasket, so at that time I cleaned the intake again. The intake looks pretty good to me for 20,000 miles. I'll drive the car for a tankful then put it on vagcom to check the timing.

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