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Mid-west USA Local discussions for those on the Mid-West US. ( Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Nebraska, North Dakota, South Dakota, Kansas, Missouri)

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Old August 25th, 2010, 16:51   #1
MrErlo
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Default IP Swap GTG, Omaha NE

I'll be replacing my IP this Saturday, as long as both the 11mm pump and ALH TB Tools both arrive in time. I'm told there is no "IP Swap How-To", so I'll be taking careful notes and posting everything online.

Here's the thread with my original troubles,

Quality Adjuster Problems
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=290391

I'll be working at my place right around 48th & Dodge in Omaha, contact me for specific directions if you'd like to stop by.

Last edited by MrErlo; August 25th, 2010 at 16:54. Reason: additional information added
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Old August 26th, 2010, 07:29   #2
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Eric:

Hope all goes well for you on your IP swap.

Dan
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Old August 26th, 2010, 08:07   #3
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I'm pretty sure Rocketeer928 (don't quote me on the last 3 numbers) made an extremely detailed writeup of the IP-Swap procedure. Take a gander around the forum for that. Its pretty straight forward, you just don't have to take the rest of the timing components off to do it.

EDIT: HERE it is!
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Old August 28th, 2010, 18:34   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ausgezeichnet TDi View Post
EDIT: HERE it is!
Excellent, thanks very much. I'll probably grab the entire thing into PDF and post it back so it's easy to download and keep on your own computer.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 09:54   #5
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Last night I just finally got the jack, stands, and all tools over to my house. I got the Dynaflow CCV off, and pulled the injectors lines, 3-4-1-2. So now is when all the real fun starts...
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Old August 29th, 2010, 12:32   #6
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I did this last weekend while doing a TB job. To be honest most of the steps are to do with the TB job. The steps associated with the IP pump change are trivial. All it requires is remove/replace the pump 4 bolts, transfer the IP sprocket 3bolts, reconnect the fuel lines and connect the electrical connector. Here is the condensed version:

You need to lock down the engine in TDC (Need some TB tools), relieve TB tensioner, remove cam sprocket to release belt. Then change out IP sprocket 3 bolts and remove IP only four bolts and reattach IP sprocket. Then mount belt (trick here is to use cam sprocket with belt on). Retension belt with ip pin in and loose ip sprocket and loose cam sprocket. Tigheten up sprockets. Then 2 revs to check tdc. Finally retime with Vagcom small adjustments of ip sprocket position.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 20:03   #7
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About 6 hours later:

- new 11 mm is installed
- timing is checked and all lined up

I've got to put back all the small side parts and check everything electronically tomorrow. I got hung up on finding the TDC mark on the flywheel since I've never done a TB job before, and since it was a G60 replacement I wasn't really sure what I was looking for.

I had been told a professional can do the job in 2 hours, he said it would take me 4, and I had planned 8 for myself start to finish. I'm still mostly on track to finish tomorrow early AM.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 04:50   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ausgezeichnet TDi View Post
I'm pretty sure Rocketeer928 (don't quote me on the last 3 numbers) made an extremely detailed writeup of the IP-Swap procedure.

EDIT: HERE it is!
Yup! You got the numbers right. Thanks for the reference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrErlo View Post
About 6 hours later:

- new 11 mm is installed
- timing is checked and all lined up

I've got to put back all the small side parts and check everything electronically tomorrow. I got hung up on finding the TDC mark on the flywheel since I've never done a TB job before, and since it was a G60 replacement I wasn't really sure what I was looking for.

I had been told a professional can do the job in 2 hours, he said it would take me 4, and I had planned 8 for myself start to finish. I'm still mostly on track to finish tomorrow early AM.
Good work MrErlo. Personally, I've never been able to see the TDC mark on any of my flywheels through the hole on top of the transmission. The only time I see it is when I've twice had the transmission out to go to the G60/VR6 and then a Stage III+ clutch/flywheel. There are so many other TDC checks that I don't worry too much about it, especially after I perform a couple of turns by hand.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 05:12   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrErlo View Post
About 6 hours later:

- new 11 mm is installed
- timing is checked and all lined up

I've got to put back all the small side parts and check everything electronically tomorrow. I got hung up on finding the TDC mark on the flywheel since I've never done a TB job before, and since it was a G60 replacement I wasn't really sure what I was looking for.

I had been told a professional can do the job in 2 hours, he said it would take me 4, and I had planned 8 for myself start to finish. I'm still mostly on track to finish tomorrow early AM.
There is small notch in the harmonic balancer and the timing cover also showing alignment for TDC. On my one I also had the G60 flywheel and didn't bother to check it when I put my clutch in, I was worried there would be no TDC mark. It turned out the vendor had put a small paint mark. Both this mark and the harmonic balancer mark coincided very well, so it gave more confidence. Both marks were about 1 tooth retarded after 110K. Shows how important those marks are in terms of bringing them back in line.

Problem now is my Sachs VR6 clutch is slipping. I will have to go for stage 3 like rocketeer928. Let us know if the 11mm causes your clutch to slip. With RC5 more and more people are telling me it is not strong enough.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 10:52   #10
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Back after it... should have it all together in just a little while.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 12:40   #11
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Well I got it all back together, and now it won't turn over. Looks like I need a new battery, bummer.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 12:43   #12
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Did you crank too long? Crack the 2 center lines at the injector and crank a couple of times until you see some diesel. Then tighten back up and crank again.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 13:41   #13
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I cracked the lines and got diesel through. Unfortunately, had a loose nut on the bottom of #2 line at the IP. Got that tightened up also.

Primed the entire fuel system with the "Car Bong", a modified Diesel Purge filter bypass. Now I'm just trying to get the battery to turn it over while jumping from my roommate's car...
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Old August 30th, 2010, 14:08   #14
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Just took a hot lap, huzah!

Now time for VCDS timing check...
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Old August 30th, 2010, 14:13   #15
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Congrats! The timing adjustments are tiny. One thing I noticed is the amount of force needed to move the ip center nut varies depending on where you are on the pump compression cycle. Because of this, very slowly gradually increase the force on the nut until you detect the slightest of movements.
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