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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010+)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010+) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010+) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old March 31st, 2010, 11:40   #1
jasong70
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Default Jacking points

Hey Guys,

If you're not using the factory jack, what jacking points do you use? I resorted to using a hockey puck on the pinchweld where they recomend the factory jack, but wondering if there is a better spot. On my Volvo, I place the jack under the control arm, mostly due to it's height. Stumped on the VW...
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Old March 31st, 2010, 12:21   #2
fleuger99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasong70
Hey Guys,

If you're not using the factory jack, what jacking points do you use? I resorted to using a hockey puck on the pinchweld where they recomend the factory jack, but wondering if there is a better spot. On my Volvo, I place the jack under the control arm, mostly due to it's height. Stumped on the VW...
If you go to ECS and look up Jack Pad. It is like a hockey puck but made for your car.
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Old March 31st, 2010, 21:11   #3
20IndigoBlue02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasong70
Hey Guys,

If you're not using the factory jack, what jacking points do you use? I resorted to using a hockey puck on the pinchweld where they recomend the factory jack, but wondering if there is a better spot. On my Volvo, I place the jack under the control arm, mostly due to it's height. Stumped on the VW...
jacking it up is one thing... putting it on jackstands is another issue.

For the front, I put the jack stand under the rear bushing for the control arm.

I haven't quite decided where to put the rear jackstand though...

P.S. Jack pads... remember, at dealerships, etc, where they use lifts, the weight of the car would distributed across 4 points. For home servicing, unless you have a lift in your garage (I know some people who do), you'll be severely stressing the floor pan because the weight is bearing on a single location when you jack up the car, unless you're using 4 hydraulic jacks, and slowly lift the car up using each jack incrementally.
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Last edited by 20IndigoBlue02; March 31st, 2010 at 21:22.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 07:20   #4
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Great questions here. I was wondering the same thing for tire rotations and oil changes. Any new thoughts anyone?

I guess then that the (aluminum??) circular casting that holds the front control arm rear bushing is strong enough to put a jackstand under?

I'm uncertain about the rear too.

The factory jack that comes with the car has a curved profile to fit in the outer frame rail. It take it that the rail won't crush if lifted by a soft hockey puck insert in a floor jack? My floor jack is old-school with a 5-1/2" wide dish and no puck. Maybe I can find something that will fit inside it.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 10:50   #5
Joe_Meehan
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The hockey puck has a grove in it for the weld line.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 13:01   #6
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If I'm jacking just one corner, I put a piece of old carpet on my floor jack to protect the paint and use the pinch weld at the tire changing jack locations.

If I need to put the car on jack stands, the process I use is kind of involved.

I got the Audi jack pads from one of our vendors. What I do to put the car on stands is to use my floor jack to jack up one corner at the front and then I use an old bottle jack I have to support the car at the Audi jack point so I can get the floor jack out of the way to set a jack stand at the pinch weld.

I then go to the other side at the front and do the same process.

As a safety check, I will go back to the first side and lift that corner with the bottle jack to make sure the car is not putting a side load on that jack stand.

To set the rear jack stands, I use the floor jack at the hitch I installed to lift both sides of the rear at once.
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Old April 7th, 2012, 18:40   #7
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I plan to pain my calipers soon. My thinking is to jack the car from the rear bushing for the control arm and then use the jack stand at the pinch weld. Then I'll use the factory jack to lift the rear wheel off the ground if it isn't already.
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Old April 7th, 2012, 20:00   #8
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A friend of mine was pulled by his neighbor out from under his car last spring. He was trapped by the frame, arms above his head. He lived, but it was a long road he was on. Since then, nothing but ramps for me. I know this is only good for a few things and you can't do much while on ramps, but I'd rather pay somebody for that stuff anyway.

A tip from a mechanic who I told the whole story to was to place a tire under the frame if you must jack the car.
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Old April 7th, 2012, 20:09   #9
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Great question. When I had to do the clutch on my 944, I bought 4 jacks that are basically bottle jack powered jack stands manufactured by Alltrade (link below)

http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog...ack-stand.html

These units allowed me to lift the car enough to clear the transaxle out from under the car on a low profile tranny jack. A poor man's hoist for sure. Very Beefy. Paid ~ $35 / unit. You do have to work slowly and carefully to be sure you lift things evenly.
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Old April 8th, 2012, 04:42   #10
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Good info here:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...-point-mk5.htm
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Old April 8th, 2012, 06:49   #11
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Instead of using cardboard between the jacks and the pinch weld, I use cork. I don''t think that cardboard will protect the finish much. It is basically coarse brown paper and disintegrates easily under pressure.
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Old April 13th, 2012, 07:48   #12
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In this image, the jack is under the rear subframe assembly. I assume Mk6 Golfs have this as well?



I plan on rotating my tires soon, and have thought about how to do this with only one floor jack and 2 jack stands. I figured I'd lift the rear and put the stands under the factory jack points. I'd then use the floor jack for each tire on the front; lift one front side enough to get the wheel/tire off and rotate the tires that way.

Any thoughts on my process or is there a better way of doing this?
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Old April 13th, 2012, 08:17   #13
sgoldste01
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Amstel,

Hmmm, intuitively to me, this jacking process you just described sounds dangerous. As you describe it, only one car tire (one of the front tires) would be on the ground at a time. Maybe I'm wrong, but this sounds dangerous, and also like it might put unusual twisting stress on the car's structure.

I'm no mechanic, and I'm no engineer, so I might be way off base. It just makes me nervous.
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Old April 13th, 2012, 08:35   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Amstel,

Hmmm, intuitively to me, this jacking process you just described sounds dangerous. As you describe it, only one car tire (one of the front tires) would be on the ground at a time. Maybe I'm wrong, but this sounds dangerous, and also like it might put unusual twisting stress on the car's structure.

I'm no mechanic, and I'm no engineer, so I might be way off base. It just makes me nervous.
Makes me nervous too, hence my question.

FWIW, the vehicle would only be lifted high enough to get the tires off. Only thing I'm worried about is if the rear is already on stands, and I start to lift one side of the front, that the weight transfer would cause the vehicle to come off or tip the jack stands. But then again, each front side would only come up maybe 2-3" at most?

EDIT: Nevermind... think I got something worked out. Here's what I'm going to do:

1. Lift rear and swap both rear tires side to side.
2. Drop rear
3. Lift each side and swap front tire with newly swapped rear tire.

That gives me a forward-cross rotation and doesn't need 4 jack stands.
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Last edited by amstel78; April 13th, 2012 at 08:50.
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Old April 13th, 2012, 08:52   #15
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Just get two more jack stands, if you can afford it. It would make it a lot easier.
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