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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old January 13th, 2010, 13:52   #1
Hiflyer746
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Illinois
TDI(s): 04 Jetta
Default blower motor not working

My 04 jetta TDI wagon has a small issue. The climate control blower motor doesn't work. It started to squeak a little and couple times since it stopped I thought I heard it move a small amount. Not sure what fuse controls it(factory owners manual is worthless) but i checked all of them and they are all good. So unless there is any other ideas of where to look. . . how do i access this thing? Thanks.
Timmy
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Old January 13th, 2010, 14:50   #2
Hiflyer746
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Well after some research. . . its not the switch. There is power at the motor. so i pulled it out. it spins freely. . . resistance seems low to me though. .3 ohms. Anybody have any specs? how about places to pick one up? Thanks.
Timmy
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Old January 13th, 2010, 15:47   #3
Black_Smoke
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See this thread. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2665283

I had the same problem. I got a thermal fuse from Action Electronics for $1.99 Canadian. Make sure you get the same heat rating as the original. It should be stamped on the side. You can also just buy an new resistor pack from the stealer for $50-60 if you are so inclined.

My resistor pack was (2000 Jetta) mounted on the bottom of the fan housing. I cut the old thermal fuse out, then crimped a new one in. I didn't solder mine in because i couldn't get it hot enough. Even with two soldering irons simultaneously.... I figured crimping was a better option. I didn't want to risk damaging the thermal fuse again.

To prevent this from happening, it's recommended that you start your fan on 1 and let it run for a while before you crank it up when it's cold outside.

If you want to test if this is definitively your issue, you can rig up some kind of jumper so that electricity can bypass the thermal fuse. Only run it long enough to see whether or not your problem went away. The resistors could potentially get hot enough to start a fire.

When thermal fuses fail, sometimes they will work intermittently when they cool down again. To avoid frustration, it's best just to replace them.

Edit: You can probably get at it from under the dash. Check before you tear your whole dash apart.

Last edited by Black_Smoke; January 13th, 2010 at 15:51.
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Old January 13th, 2010, 15:57   #4
tditom
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if there is power to the motor, and the motor isn't spinning, then its not the resistor pack, Black_Smoke. If the lower blower speeds weren't used very long after the blower quit, then the thermal fuse is probably OK.

HiFlyer- you may be able to replace just the motor. There are several vendors used by folks here: impex, idparts, bleachedbora come to mind.
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Old January 13th, 2010, 16:06   #5
Dana Hanchett
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http://www.fap99.com/ShopByVehicle.e...+Motor&mode=PA
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Old January 13th, 2010, 17:10   #6
Black_Smoke
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With mine, there was power at the motor too if you measured the plug with a multimeter, but if you plugged the motor into it, it wouldn't work. Perhaps the extra load was making the thermal resistor pop. I'm not dis-agreeing, but I would check that the $2 part is working properly before I replace the $255 part.
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