fuel door won't open is it a Fuse?

I'm installing a sound system in my 2001 New Beetle and now I have a problem. I had the door panel removed and was messing around with the fuel door opener switch and it sparked and wouldn't work afterwards. I checked all the fuses in the dash. What should I check? I'm gonna need to put fuel in sometime. Thanks

You may need to get a new switch. Sounds like you fried your old one.

Thats what I thought at first but I connected it to the trunk opener (which works) and it still didn't work.

Might be the selonoid then that releases the fuel door. If all of your fuses look ok, that's where I would look, then. I don't know for certain, but I think you can get at it the same way you would do a ventectomy on a Beetle. Take out the passenger side tail light and it might be right there. As I said, I don't know for certain, so don't quote me on that.

now I have another problem, The car won't start! It cranks good but doesn't get any fuel or something. Where is the fuse for that stuff?

Check your fuel line in the engine bay and see if you've got air in it. From what I've seen with manual cars, there should be a clear hose going from the fuel filter to the fuel pump. If there's air in that, then you've got an air leak somewhere. Also look for any puddles of fuel. That will tell you what's leaking and where air might be getting in. Is your check engine light on, and if so, do you know what codes there are? I know there's stuff I missed, so check the stickies in the TDI101 section. There's a few entire threads about non-start issues and what to look for.

Check Relay 109. If it goes south, the starter will still crank over the engine, but it will not start!

Among other things, the 109 relay provides power to the IP solenoid. If the solenoid does not operate, fuel doesn't flow.... no start!

BeetleBomber said:

Thats what I thought at first but I connected it to the trunk opener (which works) and it still didn't work.

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OK, what did you connect and what worked and what doesn't. I'm not sure what you're saying here.

Try replacing fuse #38 even if it looks good. A hair line crack is hard to see.

BeetleBomber said:

Thats what I thought at first but I connected it to the trunk opener (which works) and it still didn't work.

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Why did you hijack this thread?

I accidently used dads username for the first post they were all written by me.


Relay 109 is okay because the glow plug light comes on and goes off normally.
I replaced fuse #38 with another one still not working

about what works and what doesn't power hound, The fuel door opener switch works because the trunk opens when connected to it.

I have a strong feeling that the reason the car doesn't start has something to do with me blowing the fuel door opener. Let me go into detail what happened. I had the door panel off and was messing around with a metal file. I accidently grounded a hot wire on the connector ( fuel door opener), it sparked like crazy and from then on the fuel door is dead and the car won't start. Could I have burned the fuel door opener solenoid, and could there be some safety feature (anti theft) that would shut off the fuel?
I appreciate all the replys.

I need to drive my car!!!!!!!!!!!

BeetleBomber said:

I need to drive my car!!!!!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

Look over these fuses and maybe try #28 Do you hear the pump come on?
MKIV FUSE LIST
1. Washer nozzle heaters, glove compartment light, memory seat control module (10A).
2. Turn signal lights (10A).
3. Fog light relay, instrument panel light dimmer switch (5A).
4. License plate light (5A).
5. Comfort system, cruise control, Climatronic, A/C, heated seat control modules, automatic day/night interior mirror, control module for multi-function steering wheel, control unit in steering wheel (7.5A).
6. Central locking system (5A).
7. Back-up lights, speedometer vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (10A).
8. Open
9. Anti-lock brake system (ABS) (5A).
10. Engine control module (ECM): gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine, Model Year 2000 > (5A).
11. Instrument cluster, shift lock solenoid (5A).
12. Data Link Connector (DLC) power supply (7.5A).
13. Brake tail lights (10A).
14. Interior lights, central locking system (10A).
15. Instrument cluster, transmission control module (TCM) (5A).
16. A/C clutch, after-run coolant pump (10A).
17. Open.
18. Headlight high beam, right (10A).
19. Headlight high beam, left (10A).
20. Headlight low beam, right (15A).
21. Headlight low beam, left (15A).
22. Parking lights right, side marker right (5A).
23. Parking lights left, side marker left (5A).
24. Windshield and rear window washer pump, windshield wiper motor (20A).
25. Fresh air blower, Climatronic, A/C (25A).
26. Rear window defogger (25A).
27. Motor for rear windshield wiper (15A).
28. Fuel pump (FP) (15A).
29. Engine control module (ECM) gasoline engine (15A); diesel engine (10A).
30. Power sunroof control module (20A).
31. Transmission control module (TCM) (20A).
32. Injectors: gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine (15A).
33. Headlight washer system (20A).
34. Engine control elements (10A).
35. 12 V power outlet (in luggage compartment) (30A).
36. Fog lights (15A).
37. Terminal (86S) on radio, Instrument cluster (10A).
38. Central locking system (with power windows), luggage compartment light, remote/fuel tank door, motor to unlock rear lid (15A).
39. Emergency flashers (15A).
40. Dual tone horn (20A).
41. Cigarette lighter (15A).
42. Radio (25A).
43. Engine control elements (10A).
44. Heated seats (15A).
Fuse arangements in fuse bracket/battery:
S162. Glow plugs (coolant) (50A).
S163. Fuel pump (FP) relay/glow plug relay (50A).
S164. Coolant fan control (FC) control module/coolant fan (40A).
S176. Relays panel interior (110A).
S177. Generator (GEN) (90 Amp.) (110A).
Generator (GEN) (120 Amp.) (150A).
S178. ABS (hydraulic pump) (30A).
S179. ABS (30A).
S180. Coolant fan (30A).

Also the fuel filter could be old and just needs changed. Timing could just be a coincidence.

Thanks lefty. I was pretty amazed last night when the fuel door opened like nothing was wrong!! So that fixed The car still wont' start. I disconnected the battery and did some other stuff. One thing I found out on my scan guage is that I have a code! right now I forget the number but it was the TP sensor. I read that somewhere that other electrical problems can set off the sensor and it doesn't mean that the sensor is bad. That would make sense. Right now I really need a vag com!

Did you look through this thread?
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398

And have you checked the anti shudder value?

Thanks, that was helpful. I tried to listen to see if the fuel pump came on with the ignition and I couldn't hear anything.

Ok., so I'm trying to help my son (beetle bomber) get this car to start and the solenoid does click when the key is turned on, the glow plug light comes on then goes off, the fuel door opens as it should again (strangely fixed itself), the car just cranks and cranks, but no fire........ What in the world do we do? Could it be he fried something when he shorted that wire briefly? Can anyone please help us? Stumped and bummed in Va.

Have you replaced the fuel filter lately? 20k miles is what they recommend. Also did you read the no start thread? Hows the anti shudder valve? Sticking or not?

I'm going to rain on the party of Fuel Filter changes........

My brother, who lives in Georgia USA, did not change the original (OEM) fuel filter on his 2002 Jetta TDI until 11 months ago (December '08). The car had about 171k miles on it at that time.

I do agree it is a cheap way to mark an item off the list. And, considering the miles, you should go ahead and change it.

It started and ran fine!

Edit: a friend of mine has a 99 NB that has always been a "hard starter." It has to be cranked over more than the typical TDI engine. Also, I've read a few posts here and over at NewBeetle.org about hard starters.

One other thing - A friend of mine has a 98 NB with fuel level information issues. When the fuel level gets down near the reserve, the buzzer will sound when going thru sharp curves or up steep hills but no low fuel light comes on (which may be typical of a NB). Anyway, he called me about the buzzer (loud beep) sound when driving up steep hills. Well, I went by and took it for a drive... it did the same thing for me. I then noticed how low the fuel level was. I put in some fuel and drove the same stretch of road without hearing the beep sound!

AndyBees, Although I suggested a fuel filter and mentioned the 20k mile changes I have only replaced mine 3 times in 190K miles. The first time because the car would not start. Second and third times because I could afford the full Filter kit from TDIPARTS. I now have 2 spare filters and will only change them when I think there may be a problem.

Farmerboy, have you got it running yet? Did you read the no start thread?

Thanks...... but still no go. We had changed the fuel filter earlier not so long ago, so doubt that's the problem. We jumped the Fuel shutoff solenoid from the battery and it started right up and ran. So now ..... does that mean the relay 109 is shot? Remember our problem began when my son shorted the fuel door wire upon reinstallation of the door panel ...... so what burned out? What would you recommend?

Lefty, when I was working (retired 4/1/08), my TDI was rolling up about 36k miles per year. So, I always changed my Fuel Filter around the first week in December each year. That way, the car goes into the winter months with a fresh filter.

I see so many starting issues discussed and folks end up changing fuel filters only to find they've made things worse. Filter changing can result in a bunch of air getting into the IP, injection lines, and the injectors, thus creating even more problems.

So, I stay away from dropping in a new filter so quick ... last resort!

Also, I have a modified filter bracket that uses the MK 1 style fuel filter. It sets right in the OEM holder with the same in and out lines with T. The price is less than $10.00 per filter and much easier to change. And, the filter element inside is exactly the same size/shape as the priceyer OEM filter.

Yep, farmboy, I blieve the 109 Relay is shot. Don't even bother to take it apart..... been there and done that! Not much in there for you and me to repair.

I've seen the 109 work just fine and then go south only to work again tomorrow. When it starts acting like that, you have to replace it.

Seems the last I purchased were less than $20.00 for two shipped.

Most adise to carry a spare!

190K miles on a 01 ALH engine. Has the intake ever been cleaned out? Is it clogged up to the point that the engine isn't getting air?

Thanks Andybees,
Found the relay and pulled it ...... plan to drop in on Advance auto or somewhere convenient and get another. Here's hoping we get the culprit.
And no, it's not the intake MOgolf, clean as a whistle with the EGR hose blocked off, and egr tuned out by chipper , so ....... well, it's a new 109 relay coming up, and we'll see!

AndyBees said:

Yep, farmboy, I blieve the 109 Relay is shot. Don't even bother to take it apart..... been there and done that! Not much in there for you and me to repair.

I've seen the 109 work just fine and then go south only to work again tomorrow. When it starts acting like that, you have to replace it.

Seems the last I purchased were less than $20.00 for two shipped.

Most adise to carry a spare!

Click to expand...

Thanks to all who took the time to post with advise in an effort to help us! Problem found!!!!!!! I'm terribly embarrassed! The relay 109 tested fine.... the solenoid on the fuel pump still was not getting 12 volts, though it clicked. We ran the key in the locks, flicked the keyless entry betimes thinking it may be the anti-theft relay, and still no start. Well...... finally I told my son we will carefully need to recheck those fuses, .......and sure enough found the fuel injection fuse blown, a 30 amp fuse! Result with new fuse = 12 amps to solenoid and car fired right up.
Feeling like dummies in Va. and so

Well, glad you got it fixed and that it was something simple.