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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old November 1st, 2011, 06:36   #31
Yblocker
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Bowelder-

Read this:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/m...er-mod-TDI.htm
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Old November 1st, 2011, 10:13   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rventerprises View Post
I can't get a consistent reading for my IQ. I get it to 3.0, then drive it, it has absolutely no power and dies when I push the clutch in. After a hard restart the IQ is at 8 or 9 and slowly drops. I just can't get it dialed in. When I crack the torx screws loose, I get a bunch of air in my fuel line, if I get a decent IQ it starts idling really rough when I tighten the screws. Any suggestions before this thing visits the bottom of the local reservoir?
I'm having the same problem. I have to hold the go pedal to the floor and crank the starter for like 30 seconds to get it to start. I need to drive this to school, how can i get it back to stock?
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Old November 1st, 2011, 10:30   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NB_TDi
Everytime you post a picture with PhotoBucket, a TDI gets below 30MPG.
Love it.
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Old December 6th, 2011, 02:50   #34
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from what I've been reading it sounds like the IQ needs the be raised when you install larger injector nozzles correct?
or the value your looking at in vag has to be raised

I have an AHU A3 tdi and just installed a set of Bosio P520 sprints yesterday and Im going to a friends shop today to hook up the vag and set the idle injection quantity. It smells pretty rich and I swear I could see the fuel gauge moving on a 50 mile test drive. I did let it idle a while so that didn't help mpg.

But I would like to try this too because my triangle bolt has been ground into a square so somebody has been playing with it before me and that would explain some issues if they didn't us VCDS doing whatever they did in there and the IQ has been off..

Last edited by shwagondawheels; December 6th, 2011 at 02:52.
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Old February 3rd, 2012, 10:26   #35
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Did the original author of this thread forget to mention loosening the 4th triangle bolt or is the point of the article to show that the hammer mod can be done without loosening the triangle bolt. Can I get some confirmation from folks that hammer mod can be done without loosening the 4th bolt ?
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Old February 3rd, 2012, 10:52   #36
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It can be done without loosening the 4th bolt.
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Old February 4th, 2012, 06:13   #37
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Thanks VeeDubTDI, I'm going to give it a try today. Btw does going the 3 bolt method increase potential for pump gasket damage etc does anyone know ?
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Old February 6th, 2012, 10:11   #38
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UPDATE: I did the hammer mod the other day, loosening ONLY 3 pump head bolts (ignored the special triangle bolt) with success. The 3 bolt method does work or at least so far anyway. The question now is has anyone who's done the (3 bolt) hammer mod not had success ? Are we all wasting time and money diggering around for that special triangle socket for nothing ?
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:35   #39
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I suspect that there is an increased risk for gasket damage by only loosening 3 of the 4 bolts. If you have a very old pump, you may want to consider loosening the 4th bolt or sucking it up and doing a pump re-seal (it probably needs it anyway).

We've had varying success by only loosening 3 bolts. Some pumps are fine, others leak afterwards. Who knows if loosening the 4th bolt would have saved the gasket - not really worth trying in my opinion... if it leaks, re-seal it because it's going to leak eventually anyway.
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Old March 5th, 2012, 19:54   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Growler View Post
if you are good you can have the car running with VCDS displaying the IQ reading while you whack it. (not hard!) that takes the guesswork out of it

if you loosen the bolt too much, it squirts you with fuel... tighten it a little.

altho pay attention as you tighten the bolts, the IQ value may change...

it would also be a good idea to get the special bit from metalnerd to loosen the 4th bolt, makes the job much easier.

Good How to BTW
Metalnerd ?? Can you expand on that ?
Thanks.
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Old March 6th, 2012, 14:59   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesneights View Post
Metalnerd ?? Can you expand on that ?
Thanks.
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Old April 1st, 2012, 22:22   #42
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I recently did this mod and while the engine was running i tapped the pump towards the driver side until the idle became poor. I then slightly tapped it back to where the idle just cleaned up. It feels like i have definately picked up a HP from doing this. The exhaust has a slight puff of black smoke when you tap the throttle or quickly accelerate from a stop.
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Old May 6th, 2013, 15:08   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTR 21 View Post
I recently did this mod and while the engine was running i tapped the pump towards the driver side until the idle became poor. I then slightly tapped it back to where the idle just cleaned up. It feels like i have definately picked up a HP from doing this. The exhaust has a slight puff of black smoke when you tap the throttle or quickly accelerate from a stop.
I did this exact method, just out of common sense, then had my IQ checked with VCDS, it was running at 1.0. There was TONS more power and absolutely no smoke except a light haze at idle when cold. I have done almost every airflow related upgrade I can think of, 3" DP & exhaust, k03/k04 turbo, ported head and exhaust manifold, port matched intake, egr delete, 1.5" intercooler piping, etc... My question is: Is there anything wrong with running at 1.0 with my setup? I have not upgraded injectors yet, that will come soon. But is there a danger of over-stressing the pump or overheating the turbo, valves, piston, etc. when running at 1.0? Once again absolutly no smoke when I had it at 1.0. Mileage seemed to be fine until I used the power, but I never did run it that way long enough to burn through a tank and then refuel. If I got on it and then looked at the gauge it would sometimes have dropped noticeably. Have it set at 3.2 now and really miss the power!

TIA for any input!
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Old January 7th, 2015, 19:41   #44
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NB_TDi :

I followed your procedure for the hammer mod on my 01 jetta which had a real bad case of the slowdown/idle shudders.

After 1 small tap I went from 2.4 to 9.1. So I gave it a small tap back and it was within spec. No more shudder but I now have a small leak (gasket must have got compromised). I still have a real rich smell from the exhaust and my pump timing is good as well. I have bosio .205 nozzles but no other mods.

My question does the IQ # being lower mean more fuel (and higher the number less fuel?). Because I have experienced a loss in power from bringing the IQ up to spec which doesn't make sense to me lol. Going to tinker with it again tomorrow evening, I may need to source out a new gasket.
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Old January 7th, 2015, 20:12   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VRTn View Post
NB_TDi :
My question does the IQ # being lower mean more fuel (and higher the number less fuel?). Because I have experienced a loss in power from bringing the IQ up to spec which doesn't make sense to me lol. Going to tinker with it again tomorrow evening, I may need to source out a new gasket.
Yes, this is how it works.
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